3.7v mods

[brandon555]

Is there much difference between say, a KR-808 and a 3.7 v mod like the Protege in terms of vapor production? Or is the difference mainly in battery life?

I'm thinking about getting another mod, like a little chuck to run at 3.7, but if its going to perform basically the same [vapor production, throat hit] as my KR808 I might reconsider.

 

[Col. Gaunt]

Is there much difference between say, a KR-808 and a 3.7 v mod like the Protege in terms of vapor production? Or is the difference mainly in battery life?

I'm thinking about getting another mod, like a little chuck to run at 3.7, but if its going to perform basically the same [vapor production, throat hit] as my KR808 I might reconsider.

The little chuck will blow the doors off of your KR-808!

 

[DC2]

The vapor production from my 3.7v Chuck absolutely destroys my KR808D-1 batteries.

 

[Col. Gaunt]

hey dc2! Chuck you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[brandon555]

Alright, then Chuck it is.

I was just wondering because I busted out my multimeter and most of my KR8s read about 3.8 or 3.9ish... which isn't bad compared to a 510 or 910 stock batt.

I just want an alternative to my V2. One hit off that thing is like smoking five analogs at once. Its great for at work when I want a quick buzz, but chain vaping is impossible on it because after about three big hits my attys are ready to melt. I've gone down to low strength juice, but the TH lacks a bit with 11mg nic juice.

Does the Chuck take one 14500?

 

[Thulium]

Is there much difference between say, a KR-808 and a 3.7 v mod like the Protege in terms of vapor production? Or is the difference mainly in battery life?

I'm thinking about getting another mod, like a little chuck to run at 3.7, but if its going to perform basically the same [vapor production, throat hit] as my KR808 I might reconsider.

"3.7V" is a rating, not a guarantee. The standard KR8 battery fresh off the charger actually puts out about 4.2V at first, but this quickly falls off into 3-4 watt (with stock atomizer) range. Using a mod with a higher mAH battery means that you are staying in the 5 watt range for a longer period of time.

In a nutshell, you'll get about 50% more overall "power" (more watts=more power=more liquid heated=more vapor) with a 3.7V mod than with a standard configuration. Step into the 8-10W range with a higher voltage batty mod or lower resistance atty mod, and you're in the real butter zone.

 

[Col. Gaunt]

Alright, then Chuck it is.

I was just wondering because I busted out my multimeter and most of my KR8s read about 3.8 or 3.9ish... which isn't bad compared to a 510 or 910 stock batt.

I just want an alternative to my V2. One hit off that thing is like smoking five analogs at once. Its great for at work when I want a quick buzz, but chain vaping is impossible on it because after about three big hits my attys are ready to melt. I've gone down to low strength juice, but the TH lacks a bit with 11mg nic juice.

Does the Chuck take one 14500?

Large Chuck:
3.7V - 18650
6V - 2x RCR123
6V - 2x CR2 (need the sleeve sold at Thagbuilt.com, unprotected**)
6V - 2x CR123 (these are non re-chargeables that you can get in a pinch at most stores to use your large chuck at 6V)

Little Chuck:
3.7V - 16340 (also sold as 3.6V CR123A, but make sure you get the 3.6V and not the 3V)
3.7V - 18350 (1200mAh, orange ones unprotected**, blue ones protected)