4.6 ohms?
- Thread starter fetalisk
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
If your using only the MVP it only goes to 5.0 volts which with a 4.0 ohm coil you will only be able to vape @ 6.25 watts. Pretty low IMO, you would need a device with higher volt output or ditch those coils and get some in the 1.8 - 2.5 ohm range.
Those would be great if connected to a car battery! That is way high for any stock/standard battery. Unless you are firing them with a mech mod I would ditch them and go with the 1.8-2.4 range. Can't understand why the resistance is so high. Have you checked the battery in your MVP? This could throw off the reading not knowing the characteristics of that model.
Yeah I'm not sure I've ever scene as high as a 4.6 ohms. You can use this a general guide of where to start with your voltage http://vtpics.vapertrain.com/voltagechart.jpg. The white zone is the sweet spot zone or generally recommeneded voltage. The yellow is a bit lower or higher than "normal" vapors like. The red you want to stay away from as you'll scorch or burn out your atty.
You also mentioned voltage vs wattage...I'm just going to copy and paste my comments from another thread dealing with that issue. If you got more questions about VV vs VW don't be afraid to ask.
The best way I heard it described is something like this. When you use the gas pedal to determine your speed that's VV. When you use speed control button that's VW. So imagine your on a flat road...i.e. your resistance isn't changing...it doesn't matter if you use the gas pedal and hold your foot at a constant angle or if you are using speed control...your speed is going to stay the same.
Now lets say you encounter a hill and 20 mph winds coming head on (i.e. the resistance of your atty got higher). With the gas pedal (VV) you need to step on the pedal a little more to overcome the wind and the hill just to maintain the same speed. When using speed control (VW) the car's computer takes care of that for you and your speed remains constant regardless of the resistance.
Same analogy when going down hill just in reverse.
Assuming all things being equal juice, tank, battery, etc when switching from a lower resistance atty to a higher resistance atty and vice verse you will get the exact same vape when using VW. The mods computer chip kicks in determines what the appropriate voltage should be to equal your current wattage setting (i.e speed of car)...Just like how a car's computer determines how much gas to send to the fuel injector when using speed control.
Regardless of using VV or VW wattage is the end result that determines the hotness and throat hit of the vape. Wattage in this case equates to the heat/energy given off by the attomizer to turn the liquid into a vapor. You can look at ohms law and all of that but when increasing the voltage your actually increasing the wattage and when decreasing the voltage you are decreasing the wattage. There is a formula that uses voltage and resistance to calculate the wattage. When using VW it uses that formula behind the scene and calculates what voltage you need for your given wattage setting based on the resistance of the attomizer that is currently in use.
In all honesty if all of your atties are the same resistance (you are always driving on a flat road) it makes no difference what you use as the resistance becomes constant. The advantage of using VW is that when you change resistances you shouldn't have to change any settings as the vape will be the same. Again from my previous post I still tweak for different juices, times of day, and mood but I have to do less fiddling.
The only other advantage I can see to VW is that when I change my battery it keeps my wattage setting...but when I'm using VV and I switch batteries it always resets the voltage to the lowest setting.
Hopefully that description helps cement things in your mind a bit easier than going over ohms law and physic and math equations
One other advantage of VW...the resistance of your atty changes over time and usage. When using VW your device picks up on this and will adjust the voltage output accordingly to maintain your current wattage setting.
The best way I heard it described is something like this. When you use the gas pedal to determine your speed that's VV. When you use speed control button that's VW. So imagine your on a flat road...i.e. your resistance isn't changing...it doesn't matter if you use the gas pedal and hold your foot at a constant angle or if you are using speed control...your speed is going to stay the same.
Now lets say you encounter a hill and 20 mph winds coming head on (i.e. the resistance of your atty got higher). With the gas pedal (VV) you need to step on the pedal a little more to overcome the wind and the hill just to maintain the same speed. When using speed control (VW) the car's computer takes care of that for you and your speed remains constant regardless of the resistance.
Same analogy when going down hill just in reverse.
Assuming all things being equal juice, tank, battery, etc when switching from a lower resistance atty to a higher resistance atty and vice verse you will get the exact same vape when using VW. The mods computer chip kicks in determines what the appropriate voltage should be to equal your current wattage setting (i.e speed of car)...Just like how a car's computer determines how much gas to send to the fuel injector when using speed control.
Regardless of using VV or VW wattage is the end result that determines the hotness and throat hit of the vape. Wattage in this case equates to the heat/energy given off by the attomizer to turn the liquid into a vapor. You can look at ohms law and all of that but when increasing the voltage your actually increasing the wattage and when decreasing the voltage you are decreasing the wattage. There is a formula that uses voltage and resistance to calculate the wattage. When using VW it uses that formula behind the scene and calculates what voltage you need for your given wattage setting based on the resistance of the attomizer that is currently in use.
In all honesty if all of your atties are the same resistance (you are always driving on a flat road) it makes no difference what you use as the resistance becomes constant. The advantage of using VW is that when you change resistances you shouldn't have to change any settings as the vape will be the same. Again from my previous post I still tweak for different juices, times of day, and mood but I have to do less fiddling.
The only other advantage I can see to VW is that when I change my battery it keeps my wattage setting...but when I'm using VV and I switch batteries it always resets the voltage to the lowest setting.
Hopefully that description helps cement things in your mind a bit easier than going over ohms law and physic and math equations
One other advantage of VW...the resistance of your atty changes over time and usage. When using VW your device picks up on this and will adjust the voltage output accordingly to maintain your current wattage setting.
I wouldn't use that head. If it is way over the stamped rating, it must have some sort of short or defect. One thing you can do is to try pulsing it at normal voltage. Sometimes, this helps to "settle" the coil in. When in doubt, just toss it. Not worth frying your battery over.
How would a mech mod help? A mech mod intrinsically can't produce more voltage than the battery that's in it. A cheap spinner that can make 4.8V would work better on these than a mech mod!
I'm assuming the mech mod suggestion was using double stacked 18350s? I would still just toss them...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was just going to suggest that the pin inside the 510 connection may be pressed down and not making good contact with the coil. You can take a small screwdriver, bent paperclip, or something else very small to gently wiggle the pin up. I find that to be the only downfall to a MVP2.
I have to wiggle the pin up for a couple of tanks that barely make a connection. When a tank doesn't make a good connection the MVP2 gives weird Ohm readings, usually wicked high.
I was thinking about that the other day. Wonder why nobody has come up with that mod yet.
They're a tad heavy to carry around.I was thinking about that the other day. Wonder why nobody has come up with that mod yet.
That explains things. If your MVP was off or your connection wasn't quite a solid that would explain the 4.6 reading.
Are you sure that your reading is correct? If so, use them on the highest setting on your MVP--5v. That will give you 5.4 watts (with a 4.6Ω atty)--lowish but vapable...
Were those atties listed at that resistance? Or was there no resistance listed at all? In the future, I recommend ordering atties from a reputable vendor who cleary lists the Ohm ratings. I like 2.2-2.4Ω coils--they are the most versatile and work with almost any device.
Good luck!
I've noticed readings being off on my MVP at times. I've found that if the reading seems far off then hit the fire button real quick and put some current through the coil then check again with the battery check. Usually comes out correct after that
- Status
Similar threads
