4*AA box (NiMH), wires go to center connector, other thru ground (metal parts)

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VWFringe

Senior Member
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Jan 7, 2011
243
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South Orange County, CA
I did it wrong, but it works...is there any problem having the positive connector grounded to the outside lead thru my homemade swivel? I mean, should i use the negative side next time?


I put in the rivet first, only thinking to share the metal for stress relief, and then with the idea of saving a wire or two by grounding through the assembly around the battery connector

i used a dremel to clear the channels between the battery plates inside the box so i could switch them around since I reversed the battery stack
link to pictures album
Qzg3R.jpg

FnuCK.jpg

a37po.jpg

m1tet.jpg

FM antenna wires are both soldered to the center connector, then potted in place with JB Weld
copper conductors were thin, so i thought i'd better double them
i thought the wire would be pretty, and actually makes me wonder if a bottom feed tube would fit in here (an earlier attempt with 18 gauge automotive wire wasn't flexible enough to swivel freely).
e9DPF.jpg

U3DCR.jpg

i thought the felt washers would act as a clutch, allowing me to use rivets instead of bolts that might need to be tightened, but i failed to make the bracket wide enough to accomodate two metal washers around it... i like the way it looks

ayJvj.jpg

i dont know why i thought a tactile switch rated for 2 amps would be cool, in use its clicky and hard to reach

gyqeU.jpg


micro-switch modified by opening with my pocket knife and removing the NC connector post, for additional clearance inside the box, and to remove the roller-lever that normally depresses the button

pRS1C-2110710w345.jpg


parts used:
4*AA battery box from radio shack, with two small holes drilled and the plates changed around inside
2 wires from FM antenna (main switch to center connection of 510 bat con)
swivel made from:
1/2" e-cig battery tube, drilled through at one end
1/4" x 1 1/4" sheet metal cut with tin snips from computer card cover, bent to fit tubing plus clutch, drilled accross and down thru bottom
2 washers
2 felt washers from unused ceiling fan parts
2 pop rivets, one to hold the swivel to the battery connector plate, through the plastic of the box, and one to allow the tube to swivel up and down

but this is still a brick of batteries...we just happen to be a rechargeable AA household



I didn't plan this out, but rather, started tinkering and re-designing from my first box ad hoc, borrowing ideas, like the want or need for a switch that fits inside (but should really be located on the front) and the ability to fold-up or store for travel, instead of having an atty sticking out all the time



i really like the atty battery combo i've stumbled upon, Joye 510 (2.3 ohm) with 5.2 volts (I'd originally chosen the atty to work with only three AA's, so just the tip would stick out of the fourth slot, but the vaping experience changed the plan to use all four batteries, though i still pop in a jumper made out of a paper clip sometimes. I even tried 2 ohm attys with three batteries, which theoretically should have been respectable vapor, but it paled in comparison to using all four batteries.

I avoid burning out the attys by taking short (more cigarette-like) hits, but they get pretty hot during a session, and I have to be aware of it to let them cool down.

I might be scary if I ever actually planned something out.
 
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VWFringe

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jan 7, 2011
243
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South Orange County, CA
i hope everyone can see the pictures, i've changed the host from anony to imgur, please chime in about whether it's bad to have the power going thru the swivel, and whether the pictures appear correctly (I don't notice any heat forming on the metal bracket parts, tho the atty gets plenty hot)

here's a link also
 
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VWFringe

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jan 7, 2011
243
32
South Orange County, CA
the FM antenna wires, when i stripped them, only had 10 or 12 conductors, (i think the plastic kind of magnifies the appearance of the conductors, but there's hardly anything there, it's not meant for power). So, i see others switching out the wire in these boxes so thought i'd double it up to carry power better.

any thoughts on allowing one side of the battery to run through the metal parts of the swivel? (no wire to outside bat con)


this FM antenna wire seems to be handling the bending back and forth well.

you're right, it's higher than i first thought, though these might be 2.5 attys (might not have been completely dry when i ran a meter accross it), so if 2.5 then 10.8 watts, and if 2.3, you;re right 11.75, YOW! i've been switching between two every few days for a couple of months now. I only leave them on for four second bursts, and don't let it get too hot. They may only be lasting longer because of switching between them tho.

i can already hear the Li-Ion Siren's call, a smaller mod or feeder mod is what i crave, maybe a genesis atty.

Thanks for letting me know you can see the pics,
 
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willr001

Full Member
Feb 18, 2011
51
0
Twin Cities, MN
As an electrical engineer, the atomizer is just a resistive element, it really makes no difference if you run the positive through the chassis. It matters for things that are wired together, so that they all agree on what ground voltage is. It makes sure if you touch two plugged in items, there isn't a voltage difference to shock you.

For a battery mod, should be fine. If you go to put in a regulator circuit or something later, maybe swap it.
 

VWFringe

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jan 7, 2011
243
32
South Orange County, CA
As an electrical engineer, the atomizer is just a resistive element, it really makes no difference if you run the positive through the chassis. It matters for things that are wired together, so that they all agree on what ground voltage is. It makes sure if you touch two plugged in items, there isn't a voltage difference to shock you.

For a battery mod, should be fine. If you go to put in a regulator circuit or something later, maybe swap it.

Thank you!
 
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