Sounds right. Not to nit pick but I think your batteries in the diagram say 3.6, maybe not, to small to read. They say cr2 which are 3v. Pointing it out just in case.
5v box mod question
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"juice" batteries dot com (without quotes etc), rechargeable cr2 3.6v
That is what is written directly on the battery.
The website claims 3v each.
They have 400mAh. (400 rather low, but, ok for me.)
The company is in Sharon PA.
Batteries made in china of course, but, at least its a USA owner/distributor.
I try to keep everything as local as I can in the purchase of things.
Not a bad price either... $1 each? LoL! I bought a dozen or so.
(eBay)
So, possibly rated at 3v, but, battery itself claims 3.6v
This is the reason for the 5v regulator/led/resistor...
I know, I know, they are not protected, but, they do have
the hole on top of the positive connection.
Ok.
I'm going to put on my lab coat, and mess up my hair so I look like Einstein!
I'm going to the basement to work up this mod.
I think... I have everything in line now. - correct me if I'm wrong.
Positive feedback is always welcome... "Safety" first.
~Jenn
I did make a magnum mod with just the resistor...
I would like to make the output this time with a constant 5v.
Happy Modding!
This might help.
EDIT - I can't stress enough how bad it is to use unprotected batteries. Especially cheap ones. Get yourself protected batteries ASAP.
EDIT - I can't stress enough how bad it is to use unprotected batteries. Especially cheap ones. Get yourself protected batteries ASAP.
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This is very clear now.
(Big big big grin)
CR2's are not protected I realize. I don't vape for great periods of time.
(hit after hit etc)
I take 2-3 drags... rest... I know the dangers. I've been reading and reading before I became a member. I think there are Charge/Discharge Protective Circuit Board for Rechargeable Li-Ion Batteries on deal extremes website.
I've read of 2 instances so far with batteries doing nasty things.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
I hope this has helped others with questions as well...
(Big big big grin)
CR2's are not protected I realize. I don't vape for great periods of time.
(hit after hit etc)
I take 2-3 drags... rest... I know the dangers. I've been reading and reading before I became a member. I think there are Charge/Discharge Protective Circuit Board for Rechargeable Li-Ion Batteries on deal extremes website.
I've read of 2 instances so far with batteries doing nasty things.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
I hope this has helped others with questions as well...
i had the same problem with my mosfets if your voltage is too close to the minimum to begin with it will try to fire it for a second then it wont work one the atty starts taking the juice and lowers the voltage too much for it to continue you gotta take into count the load voltage
clip your multi to it and press the button and see what happens i bet it drops for a second and then pops right back up, and then drops and so on and so fourth
is your regulator getting warm? i know mosfets are different but its kind of the same concept once the load is put on it then it wont have enoug voltage to continue
clip your multi to it and press the button and see what happens i bet it drops for a second and then pops right back up, and then drops and so on and so fourth
is your regulator getting warm? i know mosfets are different but its kind of the same concept once the load is put on it then it wont have enoug voltage to continue
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Ez Duzit,
hoping you can answer a T.I. question. I managed to register to the site but at the end of the process before letting me check out I'm supposed to answer these questions. Help! It's all that's holding me up from getting some free regulators.
* Required
* Select your end equipment * Please type a matching end equipment
* Select your application Select one
* Estimated annual production quantity Select one
* Are you or is this sample request intended for use by a military entity? Yes No
* Do you accept TI's Terms and Conditions for the provision and receipt of Samples TI Products? Yes No
hoping you can answer a T.I. question. I managed to register to the site but at the end of the process before letting me check out I'm supposed to answer these questions. Help! It's all that's holding me up from getting some free regulators.* Required
* Select your end equipment * Please type a matching end equipment
* Select your application Select one
* Estimated annual production quantity Select one
* Are you or is this sample request intended for use by a military entity? Yes No
* Do you accept TI's Terms and Conditions for the provision and receipt of Samples TI Products? Yes No
Start typing computer a list will appear for you to choose from. The rest will become self explanatory.
This threw me for a long time too.
This threw me for a long time too.
PM sent, but, grateful is pretty much spot on.
When you get to the part of the order where you choose the shipping option, don't be greedy and choose over night delivery. Pick 3 day shipping and be thankful.
When you get to the part of the order where you choose the shipping option, don't be greedy and choose over night delivery. Pick 3 day shipping and be thankful.
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I did the 5v mod with led works great no problums but what size ristor should i use to led? Ive got shrink tube on every con so I wont add ristor till led burns out. Ive got some 100 ohm 1/8 watt will that work?
ok, I finally have had 1 hour of spare time.
I did as the diagram shows (credit to ez duzit) when I check continuity on the ground and hot that will pass out from V-Reg to atty connector, the needle moves on the meter.
The momentary switch is not pressed. when I press the momentary switch, the needle on the meter stays at same state as if not pressing it. There's a short somewhere I suspect. I'm tired. I drove 300 miles round trip for work today.
I'm confused. I'm going to bed. I hope someone can spell this out in plain words to me... LoL!
I'm not enjoying analogs anymore. 75% vape. 25% analogs at home.
Driving? This is a different story, I can't put drops on the atty while driving. Its worse than texting, drinking coffee, shifting gears, talking on the phone, writing out work orders, and having near miss accidents with deer all while driving on snowy highways.
In a nut shell, I can't find the short.
Night.
One more thing... When I DO NOT TEST the "out" of the V-Reg, and I just test the LED/Resistor side of this... the momentary switch indeed works properly.
I did as the diagram shows (credit to ez duzit) when I check continuity on the ground and hot that will pass out from V-Reg to atty connector, the needle moves on the meter.
The momentary switch is not pressed. when I press the momentary switch, the needle on the meter stays at same state as if not pressing it. There's a short somewhere I suspect. I'm tired. I drove 300 miles round trip for work today.
I'm confused. I'm going to bed. I hope someone can spell this out in plain words to me... LoL!
I'm not enjoying analogs anymore. 75% vape. 25% analogs at home.
Driving? This is a different story, I can't put drops on the atty while driving. Its worse than texting, drinking coffee, shifting gears, talking on the phone, writing out work orders, and having near miss accidents with deer all while driving on snowy highways.
In a nut shell, I can't find the short.
Night.
One more thing... When I DO NOT TEST the "out" of the V-Reg, and I just test the LED/Resistor side of this... the momentary switch indeed works properly.
ok, I finally have had 1 hour of spare time.
I did as the diagram shows (credit to ez duzit) when I check continuity on the ground and hot that will pass out from V-Reg to atty connector, the needle moves on the meter.
The momentary switch is not pressed. when I press the momentary switch, the needle on the meter stays at same state as if not pressing it. There's a short somewhere I suspect. I'm tired. I drove 300 miles round trip for work today.
The way you had the leads connected, the meter will read the atomizer resistance. It's not much, usually somewhere between 2.3 - 3 ohms, but if your meter was set to the lowest ohms scale, even an analog meter would register something, although probably not very much.
Also, pressing the switch with the meter still connected, [as long as the batteries are removed], wouldn't make a difference. Don't do it with the batteries in. I'm just saying.....
As a rule, you can't check resistance in a circuit. The part you want to check should be isolated. If you were just checking continuity, then ignore that statement. But because you mentioned the needle moving on the meter, I assume you are using an analog meter, set to ohms.
I'm confused. I'm going to bed. I hope someone can spell this out in plain words to me... LoL!
I'm not enjoying analogs anymore. 75% vape. 25% analogs at home.
Driving? This is a different story, I can't put drops on the atty while driving. Its worse than texting, drinking coffee, shifting gears, talking on the phone, writing out work orders, and having near miss accidents with deer all while driving on snowy highways.
I agree completely, Don't Drip and Drive!
In a nut shell, I can't find the short.
Night.
One more thing... When I DO NOT TEST the "out" of the V-Reg, and I just test the LED/Resistor side of this... the momentary switch indeed works properly.
Here's some voltage points to check. You can refer to the diagram at the bottom of the post if it helps.
Check the volts of each battery and make sure they are both at the top end of their voltage, or even better, put in a fully charged set. Then with the negative lead firmly connected to ground, and the main switch turned on, check the voltage where the battery connects to the switch (#1). You should get the full voltage of the batteries, without pressing the switch. This verifies the batteries, and the wires connecting them to the switch are ok.
If the atty is still on, take it off. Now check the volts on the other side of the switch (#2). It should be zero until you press it (the switch). This voltage might be a bit lower then the first one, but not to much lower, because there's no load. This checks the switch is working right, and should also light up the LED. You should be getting a voltage of either somewhere around 6 volts, or somewhere around 8 volts, again depending on the batteries you have. Whats the voltage? And what batteries are you using?
Because if you're only using two 3 volt batteries, that might not be enough to properly power the regulator under load, (with the atty screwed on). Not sure what regulator you're using, but using two 3 volt batteries, the voltage could easily fall to about 5.5 volts, (under load), which would trigger the shutoff. To consistently work right, these really need two 3.7 volt Li Ion cells. But anyway, with the right batteries and voltage, just go to the next step.
Check the voltage at the output from the regulator (#3). It should be 5v with the switch button pushed. If it is, everything so far is wired right, and the reg is working ok.
Now check the voltage on the connector the atty screws into. You should get 5v again when you press the switch. If yes, then the connector is wired properly. Now put the atty back on, (make sure it has some juice in it), and QUICKLY check the voltage again at the output from the regulator (#3). With the switch pressed, you should get 5 volts. [The reason I say QUICKLY, is because you don't want to fry the atty.]
Now check the voltage again where you took the second reading (#2). Whats the voltage with the switch pressed? It will probably be almost 1 volt lower then it was before putting the atty back on.
Hopefully we'll get it figured out.
Diagram with voltage test points.
I did as the diagram shows (credit to ez duzit) when I check continuity on the ground and hot that will pass out from V-Reg to atty connector, the needle moves on the meter.
The momentary switch is not pressed. when I press the momentary switch, the needle on the meter stays at same state as if not pressing it. There's a short somewhere I suspect. I'm tired. I drove 300 miles round trip for work today.
The way you had the leads connected, the meter will read the atomizer resistance. It's not much, usually somewhere between 2.3 - 3 ohms, but if your meter was set to the lowest ohms scale, even an analog meter would register something, although probably not very much.
Also, pressing the switch with the meter still connected, [as long as the batteries are removed], wouldn't make a difference. Don't do it with the batteries in. I'm just saying.....
As a rule, you can't check resistance in a circuit. The part you want to check should be isolated. If you were just checking continuity, then ignore that statement. But because you mentioned the needle moving on the meter, I assume you are using an analog meter, set to ohms.
I'm confused. I'm going to bed. I hope someone can spell this out in plain words to me... LoL!
I'm not enjoying analogs anymore. 75% vape. 25% analogs at home.
Driving? This is a different story, I can't put drops on the atty while driving. Its worse than texting, drinking coffee, shifting gears, talking on the phone, writing out work orders, and having near miss accidents with deer all while driving on snowy highways.
I agree completely, Don't Drip and Drive!
In a nut shell, I can't find the short.
Night.
One more thing... When I DO NOT TEST the "out" of the V-Reg, and I just test the LED/Resistor side of this... the momentary switch indeed works properly.
Here's some voltage points to check. You can refer to the diagram at the bottom of the post if it helps.
Check the volts of each battery and make sure they are both at the top end of their voltage, or even better, put in a fully charged set. Then with the negative lead firmly connected to ground, and the main switch turned on, check the voltage where the battery connects to the switch (#1). You should get the full voltage of the batteries, without pressing the switch. This verifies the batteries, and the wires connecting them to the switch are ok.
If the atty is still on, take it off. Now check the volts on the other side of the switch (#2). It should be zero until you press it (the switch). This voltage might be a bit lower then the first one, but not to much lower, because there's no load. This checks the switch is working right, and should also light up the LED. You should be getting a voltage of either somewhere around 6 volts, or somewhere around 8 volts, again depending on the batteries you have. Whats the voltage? And what batteries are you using?
Because if you're only using two 3 volt batteries, that might not be enough to properly power the regulator under load, (with the atty screwed on). Not sure what regulator you're using, but using two 3 volt batteries, the voltage could easily fall to about 5.5 volts, (under load), which would trigger the shutoff. To consistently work right, these really need two 3.7 volt Li Ion cells. But anyway, with the right batteries and voltage, just go to the next step.
Check the voltage at the output from the regulator (#3). It should be 5v with the switch button pushed. If it is, everything so far is wired right, and the reg is working ok.
Now check the voltage on the connector the atty screws into. You should get 5v again when you press the switch. If yes, then the connector is wired properly. Now put the atty back on, (make sure it has some juice in it), and QUICKLY check the voltage again at the output from the regulator (#3). With the switch pressed, you should get 5 volts. [The reason I say QUICKLY, is because you don't want to fry the atty.]
Now check the voltage again where you took the second reading (#2). Whats the voltage with the switch pressed? It will probably be almost 1 volt lower then it was before putting the atty back on.
Hopefully we'll get it figured out.
Diagram with voltage test points.
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to
The momentary switch is not pressed. when I press the momentary switch, the needle on the meter stays at same state as if not pressing it. There's a short somewhere I suspect. I'm tired. I drove 300 miles round trip for work today.
to jenntek: If you were just checking continuity, then ignore that statement. But because you mentioned the needle moving on the meter, I assume you are using an analog meter, set to ohms.
Hopefully we'll get it figured out.
Diagram with voltage test points.
I had the meter on: RX10. Just checking for continuity for now.
I wouldn't throw batteries in until i know everything is isolated.
Getting past continuity is always the first thing to check, before adding
power IMHO (Bam! Uh Oh...) I'm a safety first queen.
(215 miles today, it was easy drivin' but, paperwork took over 2 hours tonight. I closed 10 Work Orders today... That's almost a record breaker
in my company! I'm whuuppped.)8-o
Please, Don't drip n drive, you might drop your drips! LoL! (darn pothole!)
ok, never mind. Its not shorted. I get it... now. I'm finishing the build tonight.
It wasn't shorted, only because when I set the meter to RX10, it is showing the ohms...duh.
It wasn't shorted, only because when I set the meter to RX10, it is showing the ohms...duh.
For anyone who is interested in how circuitry works...
Here's a link: (If I'm permitted)
http://falstad.com/circuit/e-index.html
Here's a link: (If I'm permitted)
http://falstad.com/circuit/e-index.html
My first one yes... Simple resistor. But, the 2nd one? nope. I haven't really had time.
I still am somewhat confused. I realize that when I put the Ohm meter against the lowest end of the vr (where the atomizer battery connector is going to be) and the ground. The needle moves. (I'm trying to check for continuity.) I don't want to check for ohms. (Ohms is low) I feel like its shorted out. when I press the tact switch, the flow doesn't change.
So... Its on hold until I learn a bit more.
Does anyone understand what I'm talking about? I would have to draw out my explanation for all to see...
I still am somewhat confused. I realize that when I put the Ohm meter against the lowest end of the vr (where the atomizer battery connector is going to be) and the ground. The needle moves. (I'm trying to check for continuity.) I don't want to check for ohms. (Ohms is low) I feel like its shorted out. when I press the tact switch, the flow doesn't change.
So... Its on hold until I learn a bit more.
Does anyone understand what I'm talking about? I would have to draw out my explanation for all to see...
If you have an atty screwed into the connector, then you would show continuity at roughly 3 ohms. If no atty, then you probably have somewhere in the k-ohms or m-ohms reading.
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