5v vs 3.7

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sox

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i was looking to upgrade to at least a 3.7 device- was looking at th SB or BB or omega - watching the reviews they look like they put out alot of vapor which is what i'm really looking for -altsmokes says not to change the batteries to bring them up to 6v yet in the reviews it seems alot of people are doing it- would like the option of 3.7 &5v but don't want it blowing up on me - it seems to me if you took a 3.7 device used same batteries/attys/juice your vapor amount should be the same so then you are just picking the device on what you like about it -anyone have a device that can be adjusted to 3.7-5v or should i just get a 5v to give me the vapor that i'm looking for- if so what are the better choices in 5v?
 

cskent

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All things being equal, yes you'll get the same amount of vapor out of different 3.7 v devices. But all things are not equal. There's differences in the circuitry in most PV's. Choosing a different resistance on your atty will make a difference. All batteries are not created equal either.

An all mechanical mod, like the Omega has no real circuitry. This means less resistance, as in more power gets to your atty. Most mods use switches and wires, and even the best designs introduce resistance. And if the mod designer chose a switch with a 1 amp rating you won't get the power you need at the atty.
Atomizer resistance makes a difference too. The lower the resistance, the faster it heats up. It'll burn hotter too, that's what makes it give off more vapor. Choose a 1.5 ohm atty @ 3.7v and it'll produce more vapor than a 2.0 ohm atty.
Batteries come in different varieties. Most everyone uses li-ion batt's because they're compact, have good capacity, and are at a decent voltage. But there are different types of li-ion batteries. You always want to use protected cells. But there are also low drain types, and high drain. The low drain discharge slower than the high drain. Most cheap li-ion batt's are low drain, and most people don't know the difference so that's what they use. But put a high drain in the same mod and it'll produce more vapor.

So in summary, if you want to get the most vapor you can out of a 3.7v device use an all mechanical mod, or check the specs on the circuitry if it's not mechanical. Use LR atty's. And use high drain batt's. If you use this combination you'll be surprised how much vapor you get. I was considering a variable voltage mod until I got the right combination in my Silver Bullet. Thanks to the guys at Altsmoke.
 
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wv2win

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The difference between vaping at 3.7 volts and 5 volts is significant. 5 volt vaping due to the much better throat hit and consistency is far better than any 3.7 volt PV. That being said, using a good variable volt PV really gives the user the most flexibility as some liquids and atomizers/cartomizers perform a little better at say 4.5 to 4.8 volts.

For one of the best 5 volt PV's I would get the GLV2 (5 volt version) from: Electronic Cigarettes and E-Liquid - Great Lakes Vapor .

For one of the best (if not the best) variable volt PV's, I would get the new Darwin from nhaler.com.
 

cskent

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Variable voltage performs the function of optimizing the voltage output of the device to the resistance of the atomizer, and the preference of the user. You can also go at it from the other direction, match the atomizer resistance to the voltage requirements of the device, and user preference. Two approaches to the same problem. HV simply gives you a higher starting point. It does not necessarily produce more vapor, although it can if you use a lower resistance atty. It's all about Ohm's law, not the voltage used. A 3.7v device using a 1.7 ohm atty will give 8 watts of power, a 5v device using a 3.1 ohm atty will give 8 watts of power. Same output. Once you find the resistance level that suits your needs you're good to go.

Ohm's law calculator

Variable voltage just makes it more convenient to get the desired output. There can also be electrical differences between otherwise identical atomizers, and they also degrade through use. A variable voltage unit will allow you to compensate for those factors. One unit, I believe it's the Darwin, automatically adjusts for fluctuations and degredations in performance which occur.
 
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