A calculator that would tell you the temperature of your coil..

[Edi]

hey,

so i was wondering for a while about the temperature of a standard kanthal coil. lets say im using a 28ga kanthal a1, with 5 wraps on a mechanical mod. Standard batteries like most of us have.. What would be the maximum temperature of that coil with a fresh battery?

I have a TC mod now, but just thinking about recreating that on my mech mod. Building a coil that wont get over 250 degrees celsius, during a 5-6 second vape..

Possible?

 

[Susan~S]

Modders already do this. They buy the TC chipset and add it to their mods. Works best with a box form mod due to the size of the chip and all the wiring that needs to be done.

ETA: Oops! Not with kanthal wire.

 

[nyiddle]

hey,

so i was wondering for a while about the temperature of a standard kanthal coil. lets say im using a 28ga kanthal a1, with 5 wraps on a mechanical mod. Standard batteries like most of us have.. What would be the maximum temperature of that coil with a fresh battery?

The max temperature would literally be "as hot as the Kanthal gets before it melts." You can measure it with something like a heat gun, but it'll vary drastically depending on the battery's voltage, the inner diameter of the coil, the voltage drop of the mod, airflow.. There's literally a dozen+ factors that'd influence the coil's temperature.

The way TC mods work is that the resistance of the wire goes up as the heat increases, and it's sort of parallel so that it's measurable within a certain % of error. The mod reads the resistance, decides what temperature is associated with that resistance, and will pulse the voltage in order to not allow the resistance to get higher than that. That's pretty laymen's terms, there's a bit more to it, but that's the gist. You won't be able to recreate that pulse/stepdown/step-up technology of a TC device with a mech mod/Kanthal.

 

[Ou2mame]

Coil temp is dependent on airflow, wicking, and power applied. A wet coil with a lot of airflow won't get nearly as hot as a coil with no wick. It's hard to apply a specific number because it's dependent on the variables. If you want a mech mod to achieve the same exact vape of a tc mod, thats not going to be possible. The mech mod is locked into a specific voltage. That's the point of it all.

On a tc mod, or even a vw mod, you can go above and below the actual voltage of the battery to fine-tune your vape. So say you build a 0.5 coil on a mech mod. That'll run at 4.2 volts. Say you build a 2ohm coil. That'll run at 4.2 volts too. Say you build a 1ohm coil...that'll run at 4.1 volts cause you already used some power firing the 0.5 and 2ohm coils lol

I always get a better vape on a regulated mod, only because I can adjust the power applied, whether it's tc or vw or whatever. The only thing you could do is try to build a coil that at 4.2 volts, vapes exactly as you want it to, and always keep your battery charged.

 

[K_Tech]

Just as nyiddle and Ou2mame said, there's no way to reliably calculate resultant temperature because there are way too many variables to take into account.

 

[Edi]

ok, i understand. just too many variables to guess it

just for the sake of it, let's try to reduce the variables..

30ga kanthal a1 wire
2.5mm diametar of a coil
6 spaced wraps to get to 1.8ohm
kayfun or similar type of atomizer with a decent airflow
cotton wick, no problems with saturation
lov voltage drop
4.2v battery, fully charged
4 second draw

let's just ball park it what do you guys thin, would this go over 300 degrees celsius?

the problem that i have with my ipv d2 and my current clapton wire 28/32ga is that it's drinking like a lunatic.. i go through a full tank on my kfl+ v2 (2.5ml) in less then an hour and i have it set to 230 degrees celsius and 16 joules.

on my mech mod, i can go half a day with that. i think it's the wire, but i dont know.. ordered some 26ga and i will know for sure then, but atm im kinda thinking about sticking with my mech, but trying to get a similar vape as i get from the tc mod set at at 230-250 degrees celsius..

 

[Ou2mame]

Temp control changes the wattage to achieve a temp you set. A mech just keeps heating up the coil until you stop the power. I think you're over thinking it. Instead of trying to create the vape quality you want with estimating temps you should be just focusing on building a specific coil that will provide that vape. Before temp control we had good vape quality lol it can still be achieved!

 

[Edi]

yeah, i know.. i was just always wondering about that

anyway, thanks for the thoughts..

 

[Ou2mame]

It's just too hard to estimate. I could throw numbers out but it would be completely random guesses and it wouldn't help at all.

 

[Edi]

i understand.. i think that in order to get closer to that tc type of vape, you just need a higher resistance coil with a thin wire. since i started vaping i was more orientated to getting a lot of steam, but now im starting to lean more towards flavor.. next coil will be around 1.8ohm, just to see if it's close to that.. lately im on around 0.8-1ohm, so i get enough steam, but the flavor is not as good as on the tc mod of course..

oh, how is your juice consumption on a tc mod, comparing it to a mech mod, with the same atty and build of course? it really surprised me that the juice is just vanishing.. in to thin air, literately

 

[nyiddle]

i understand.. i think that in order to get closer to that tc type of vape, you just need a higher resistance coil with a thin wire. since i started vaping i was more orientated to getting a lot of steam, but now im starting to lean more towards flavor.. next coil will be around 1.8ohm, just to see if it's close to that.. lately im on around 0.8-1ohm, so i get enough steam, but the flavor is not as good as on the tc mod of course..

oh, how is your juice consumption on a tc mod, comparing it to a mech mod, with the same atty and build of course? it really surprised me that the juice is just vanishing.. in to thin air, literately

See but you're comparing apples to oranges still. A TC mod pulses the heck out of the voltage to avoid going over the temperature you specify. A mech mod doesn't care at all and it doesn't pulse in any way/shape/form.

Additionally, the "same build" is impossible with nickel wire (which is necessary for TC) because it's virtually non-resistant wire. 28 gauge Kanthal is something like .4 ohms per inch, whereas nickel is something like .4 ohms per FOOT (those numbers aren't right, but the scale is accurate). TC builds are rarely higher than .3 ohms.

 

[Edi]

i understand that, but if you would build a kanthal coil with a lot of wraps and high resistance, you would need a lot of time to even get it warm, so it's not like you cant build a coil with kanthal that wouldnt get very hot.. im thinking about trying to figure out what resistance you need, with which gauge wire, to get around 250 degrees celsius with a 3-4-5 second draw. of course that it will get much hotter eventually, if you press the button for 10+ seconds, but i dont vape like that, unless my battery is empty

i hope you understand what im saying

 

[nyiddle]

i understand that, but if you would build a kanthal coil with a lot of wraps and high resistance, you would need a lot of time to even get it warm, so it's not like you cant build a coil with kanthal that wouldnt get very hot.. im thinking about trying to figure out what resistance you need, with which gauge wire, to get around 250 degrees celsius with a 3-4-5 second draw. of course that it will get much hotter eventually, if you press the button for 10+ seconds, but i dont vape like that, unless my battery is empty

i hope you understand what im saying

I can't guarantee the temperature (no one can), but I find a .6 ohm dual coil with 26ga Kanthal (10-wrap or more) to be a nice comfortably cool yet still satisfying vape at around 60W.

 

[NealBJr]

ok, i understand. just too many variables to guess it

just for the sake of it, let's try to reduce the variables..

30ga kanthal a1 wire
2.5mm diametar of a coil
6 spaced wraps to get to 1.8ohm
kayfun or similar type of atomizer with a decent airflow
cotton wick, no problems with saturation
lov voltage drop
4.2v battery, fully charged
4 second draw

let's just ball park it what do you guys thin, would this go over 300 degrees celsius?

the problem that i have with my ipv d2 and my current clapton wire 28/32ga is that it's drinking like a lunatic.. i go through a full tank on my kfl+ v2 (2.5ml) in less then an hour and i have it set to 230 degrees celsius and 16 joules.

on my mech mod, i can go half a day with that. i think it's the wire, but i dont know.. ordered some 26ga and i will know for sure then, but atm im kinda thinking about sticking with my mech, but trying to get a similar vape as i get from the tc mod set at at 230-250 degrees celsius..

There is no ballpark possible. Wick saturation will always keep the wicks low, and it depends on the juice as well, how well it's wicked, etc. I don't think a well supplied wick will go above 300. Remember, as the liquid is evaporated, it has a cooling effect. Dry wicks don't evaporate, and can get hotter. If it was a dry wick, yes. lightly wicked, yes. but if your wick is well juiced up for the entire 4 second draw, then no, it probably gets red hot.

 

[Edi]

ok i get it

i just uncoiled my clapton wire, so i got one 28ga wire to try it out. i was aiming at 0.06ohm and got 0.065 ohm, but when i put everything together, it was showing 0.085.. anyway, i slowly increased the temperature towards 250 degrees celsius.. and than the joules to max 25 or so.. i didint like it. the vapor is just too thin. i have some aroma, but honestly it's better with kanthal for me.. the only + side is that it's even all the way, but that can be a minus too... basically, im not impressed with this whole thing

the juice is not going so fast, but still faster than on a mech mod.. now waiting for the 26ga wire, but i have a feeling that i'll sell the mod and the wires and just stick to my smpl mod and kanthal for now. im also a bit worried about the health aspect, which i dont really have with kanthal..

was so happy to getting my ring finger a rest

 

[mightymen]

Here's two online calculators that you can fool around with.

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators


Coil Toy - Online calculator for e-cigarette resistance coil building

 

[edyle]

hey,

so i was wondering for a while about the temperature of a standard kanthal coil. lets say im using a 28ga kanthal a1, with 5 wraps on a mechanical mod. Standard batteries like most of us have.. What would be the maximum temperature of that coil with a fresh battery?

I have a TC mod now, but just thinking about recreating that on my mech mod. Building a coil that wont get over 250 degrees celsius, during a 5-6 second vape..

Possible?

the temperature of that coil is going to depend on whether it is wet or dry.
Once it gets dry the temperature skyrockets quickly over 500 degrees.

for a ballpark number, I think of red hot as being 1000 degrees celcius.

If you want to keep your temperature down, use thick gauge wire, higher ohms, but the downside is slower rampup time
thicker wire of the same ohms as thinner wire, will not get as hot, because there is more surface area to radiate the heat energy

 

[Edi]

good explanation! thanks

i will just play around with my kanthal coils.. i dont think i will go for the thicker wire.. hate the long ramp up time.. i will try some builds with 32 or 30ga wire, higher ohms and see how this goes..

 

[NealBJr]

good explanation! thanks

i will just play around with my kanthal coils.. i dont think i will go for the thicker wire.. hate the long ramp up time.. i will try some builds with 32 or 30ga wire, higher ohms and see how this goes..

For Kanthal, I like to use 28 gauge. it gives a fairly quick ramp up time, decent flavor, low heat. It's a flavor build, and the juice I have tends to favor a flavor type setup. I have had some juice that does just taste better with a cloud build. One of my favorite builds is a mixture of Guava and custard. When I have a 1 ohm flavor build, I taste more of the guava with a custard aftertaste. When I run it on a dripper, I taste more of the custard with a sweet guava aftertaste. Certain juices just taste better using a hotter setup, and some taste better using a low heat setting.

As far as clapton coils go, I've went that route, and to be honest, I couldn't tell the difference between a clapton coil build and a regular micro coil. I've found that taste can change depending on how it's wicked just as much as how it's coiled. My personal opinion, is that the reason drippers tend to have a better taste, is because of the juice that's nowhere near the coils mixing in with the vapor from the heated coil. My own theory is that the juice sitting in the area of the wick holding the juice adds to the flavor as well as the vapor coming from the heat.

Just my opinions though.

 

[Edi]

i use mostly 28ga kanthal too. i also used 32ga nichrome, but didnt like it.. too thin. i will probably get some 30ga kanthal and do some higher resistance builds..

my problem with my current clapton wire is that the juice is exploding it feels like vaping on a popcorn machine..

wanted to get the derringer, but since i have the smpl hybrid mod, i was a bit worried about the safety aspect, since all of them i saw dont have a fixed centre screw. just didnt like that. now im going into mixing my own liquid so i will get a dripper..