A few questions about voltage, ohms, and vapor production

[fulletank]

I've done some searching about these issues but I still have a few clarification questions.

I'm currently using a standard evod variable voltage battery, along with a variety of tanks including the mini protank 2, protank 2, and Aspire (not sure of exact model) I mostly stick to 3.7 volts, and I've heard that above 4.0 = dangerous territory when it comes to burning wicks and juice. I have a decent understanding of how ohms and voltage works on PVs, but I'm still a little confused. If I can't turn up above 4.0 with my current setup, why does the voltage go all the way to 4.8? I'm assuming there's some sort of tank that can handle the higher voltages, and give me more vapor production. I have an MVP 2.0 on the way, and I wonder what the next step up in terms of tank would be since I still won't be able to put my current one above 4.0 without risking burning. Are the higher voltages on my battery for dripping/sub ohm vaping? I'd just like to know what my options are besides turning the voltage up with my current setup. Also, on the pack of coils for my aspire tank, it says 1.8 ohms, and in parentheses (4.2-4.8 volts) is this saying that that is a good range for this coil?

Sorry about all the questions, and thanks

 

[Jwaterski]

Seems slow tonight, figured someone who actually knows woulda been along by now to answer this. I'm not that person, but there are coils that can use the 4+ setting, as you saw with the aspire, dual coils come to mind. Wander around a little, check out Baditude's blog for sure, got questions, he's got answers.

 

[DingerCPA]

Welcome fulletank!

I don't have hard facts, but more my experiences. I use PT2s (with airflow controllers), Nautiluses (full and mini - 1.8ohm BVCs) and I have a couple of kayfuns and drippers.

Pushing above 4.0V may or may not be dangerous. I rebuild my PT2 coils, so I'm using slightly thicker wire than the stock heads (30g, compared to 32 or 34g in the stock heads). Because the wire is thicker, it can take a little more heat (volts) and not over-stress the coil. I run about 9W with my 1.8-2.0ohm PT2 coils. I run about 10.5W with the Nautis. I don't run dark juices in the Nautis (I think darker juices gunk the coils faster and lessen the lifespan of my BVCs)

Vapor production is a combination of power, resistance, and PG/VG (and airflow). I DIY my juices and have been about 60p/40v. I'm changing my base so I'm going to end up around 40p/60v. I'm finding that is increasing the density of my vapor.

I also have a couple of kayfuns, and have been building those to about 1.2-1.3 ohms. That lets me push the wattage, but it's still landing me around 4V.

The voltage on your evod can roll up to 4.8, but that tends to get used more for 2.5ohm coils. If you tried to push 4.8V on your 1.8ohm coils, you'll land about 12.8W. Even though that's only about 2.7A, I'm not sure that the evod will let you do that.

Folks generally recommend that you add 2 to your coil resistance as a STARTING point, but you can move up and down to your preference. When the juice starts to taste burnt, back it down....

I love my MVP2s, and I do run my Nautis on them (max wattage = 11 on the MVP.) I do have a couple higher-powered rigs so I could push the Nautis further if I really want to (but I don't because around 11.5W, I'll start to burn a bit....) I *REALLY* love my PT2s on my MVP - that's my go-to setup most of the time, unless I'm playing around with the kayfuns or my drippers....

I hope this helps a bit. I feel like I started free-associating

 

[fulletank]

I ordered my MVP 2 earlier today and didn't realize that it couldn't push sub ohm coils if I wanted to down the road. I emailed MVS and asked if I could change it to an iv mini 30w instead. Assuming I can't cancel/change my order and I end up getting the MVP 2, is there still a way for me to better my vaping experience with this hardware? (i.e. better than my current evod spinner setup)

 

[Susan~S]

IAssuming I can't cancel/change my order and I end up getting the MVP 2, is there still a way for me to better my vaping experience with this hardware? (i.e. better than my current evod spinner setup)

Yes.

The Aspire mini (or regular sized) Nautilus with the new BVC's (bottom vertical coils). They are not subohm coils but they do produce a decent amount of vapor.

This is Matt (from Suck My Mod) vaping a mini Nautilus on an rDNA (a 30 watt devise). However he is only vaping at 18 watts. Any higher, he begins to get dry hits/burnt taste.

[edited]

 

[fulletank]

Yes.

The Aspire mini (or regular sized) Nautilus with the new BVC's (bottom vertical coils). They are not subohm coils but they do produce a decent amount of vapor.

So I would still get more vapor than my current tank with the nautilus? And I wouldn't get as much as the guy in the vid would I? (Because the MVP only goes up to 11 watts)

 

[godfatherI]

Watts (power at the coil) is what will determine the quality of your vape. As the power to the coil increases, better wicking is needed as the juice is vaporizing faster. The coils you mentioned probably would have a hard time keeping up wicking wise at 4.8 v (which is 12.8 watts with a 1.8 ohm coil).

 

[Javamon]

Here's a guide - see the Vaping Power Chart:

Taste Your Juice | Charts & Tools

 

[mcclintock]

Most people find the correct voltage or power by experimentation. Start low and increase gradually. When you get some burning taste towards the end of long drags, back off, in fact take it down lower to let your coil recover at first, but eventually try a little lower than what was just too much. Another thing to look for is when the flavor develops, which won't be quite that high, but going even lower lacks something.

I'm currently experimenting with a 2.3 ohm coil build on my Taifun RTA. As this is a larger atomizer, it takes 4.8 volts just to hit a minimal heat. It was the only way to try this coil geometry with the wire I had. Subohm has more to with mechs, which are usually 3.7V and you can only get more power by building a coil that sucks more power from the battery. You can't get more power from a regulated mod than it is rated for, but you can build a coil to its minimum resistance and maximum voltage.

No one seems to point out the Subtank also has a 1.2 ohm coil option, although I've heard it's not as good I don't know if it was a fair comparison.