A few Reomizer 2 questions...

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pesky_human

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I just received my second Grand and RM2 in the mail today. Thanks Rob!

I have a few questions...

1. This new RM2 is a little different than the one I received a couple of weeks ago. First, whereas the first one sits almost flush with the neck of the Reo, this one sits up a bit, leaving a noticeable gap below the chrome base and the Reo. I am wondering if these are milled differently. It's just a cosmetic thing, but the flush look is definitely cleaner. Photo to follow.

2. One of the posts on the new one is significantly taller, which I don't care about. What's odd, though, is that the wire hole on the tall post is TINY. It looks like a pin ..... it is so small. I used 30g for my first coil on this thing and it fit, but I am wondering if I will be able to get anything larger in there. I am awaiting some 27G that I should be getting tomorrow and will give it a shot, but this 30g is just a placeholder. I definitely plan on using thicker wire in general. I have no way of taking a macro shot of this, but the hole is literally just larger than the wire. The other hole is the same saize as the holes on my other RM2. Does somebody have one with the smaller hole that can confirm that 28 and 27g will fit in there?

3. Is there some way to adjust where the coil and airhole line up in relation to the firing button other than the little o-ring around the catch cup? On one Reo, it lines up next to the firing button and on the other it lines up opposite. I would like to set them both up so that they are the same. I have tried backing off the one that is opposite the button, but it's a bit too loose to make a good connection. A different o-ring maybe? I know somebody has figured this out.

Thanks!
 

pesky_human

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uhehuqyr.jpg


The meeting of the Reo and the RM2 on both


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

pesky_human

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darkzero

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3. Is there some way to adjust where the coil and airhole line up in relation to the firing button other than the little o-ring around the catch cup? On one Reo, it lines up next to the firing button and on the other it lines up opposite. I would like to set them both up so that they are the same. I have tried backing off the one that is opposite the button, but it's a bit too loose to make a good connection. A different o-ring maybe? I know somebody has figured this out.

I've never had much luck using that 1mm oring but I also don't use RM2s. But on the two Reos I setup for my buddy with RM2s I didn't have much luck either. I prefer a bit tighter fit. I use 1.5mm & sometimes 1/16" wall orings. Usually 1/16" wall is too thick for me but on one Reo I have to use that size. The 1/16" wall orings you can find at any local hardware store but it may be too think for your RM2's center post to make proper contact. PM me you mailing address & I'll send you a few of the 1.5mm wall orings I use.

You could then use that 1mm oring around the machined base of the RM2 to fill in the gap & hide the brass (assuming you have enough room).
 
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_more_

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Christian, Check out this thread : http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/467905-problem-rm2.html

Yes, some use a thicker o-ring so they can adjust the RM2 and align the hole in a different position.

Yay it worked. Now my holes are lined up perfectly.

Thanks Karen - I have been jammed up and did not see the other thread posted earlier today. Just got the answer re: the little post hole.

My problem is i am always late and miss lots of posts. Thanks for posting your question cause i missed the other post also.

I've never had much luck using that 1mm oring but I also don't use RM2s. But on the two Reos I setup for my buddy with RM2s I didn't have much luck either. I prefer a bit tighter fit. I use 1.5mm & sometimes 1/16" wall orings. Usually 1/16" wall is too thick for me but on one Reo I have to use that size. The 1/16" wall orings you can find at any local hardware store but it may be too think for your RM2's center post to make proper contact. PM me you mailing address & I'll send you a few of the 1.5mm wall orings I use.

You could then use that 1mm oring around the machined base of the RM2 to fill in the gap & hide the brass (assuming you have enough room).

Excellent and i just so happened to have kept a lot of my departed hubbys tools and stuff so now i am set for life. Will do the 2nd part of your post tomorrow. The first works great!

hmm, he would be laughing at me now :D
 

pesky_human

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I've never had much luck using that 1mm oring but I also don't use RM2s. But on the two Reos I setup for my buddy with RM2s I didn't have much luck either. I prefer a bit tighter fit. I use 1.5mm & sometimes 1/16" wall orings. Usually 1/16" wall is too thick for me but on one Reo I have to use that size. The 1/16" wall orings you can find at any local hardware store but it may be too think for your RM2's center post to make proper contact. PM me you mailing address & I'll send you a few of the 1.5mm wall orings I use.

You could then use that 1mm oring around the machined base of the RM2 to fill in the gap & hide the brass (assuming you have enough room).

Thanks for the tip, homie.

What atties do you use on your Reos, if I may ask?
 

darkzero

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What atties do you use on your Reos, if I may ask?

I use the base from a Phoenix v4 (aka ERA clone & other styles) that I remachine (drill the post for bottom feed, add extra hole for juice exit, shorten insulator to reduce the 510 center post height, & add a small drip well). And I use my own caps like in my avatar but on my Mini 2.1 I use the top cap from a Squid (black). They have issues out the box but I buy them for the intent of modding them. Only cost $5 so I have a bunch of them. Coils require more work to get them where I like the placement. I just prefer to use these & I like them for certain reasons.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/460357-my-toxic-green-reo.html#post10506066
 

nerak

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I have the same issue with the wire hole size. People are saying its resolved but I dont see any discussion after the original post??? Am I missing something??

Robert is on it! You can ream it out yourself or send it back and he will fix it.

He stated he would check and fix all RM2 that go out now. He was aware there was a smaller hole but the wire he tried all fit.
 

FeistyAlice

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I've never had much luck using that 1mm oring but I also don't use RM2s. But on the two Reos I setup for my buddy with RM2s I didn't have much luck either. I prefer a bit tighter fit. I use 1.5mm & sometimes 1/16" wall orings. Usually 1/16" wall is too thick for me but on one Reo I have to use that size. The 1/16" wall orings you can find at any local hardware store but it may be too think for your RM2's center post to make proper contact. PM me you mailing address & I'll send you a few of the 1.5mm wall orings I use.

You could then use that 1mm oring around the machined base of the RM2 to fill in the gap & hide the brass (assuming you have enough room).

Does the squid insulated wire post pull out or screw out? BTW folks, the Mini Squid/Octopus cap fits the ERA. Some nice anodized colors, too Thanks.
 

darkzero

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Does the squid insulated wire post pull out or screw out? BTW folks, the Mini Squid/Octopus cap fits the ERA. Some nice anodized colors, too Thanks.

The Squid's post is not screwed in, it's a friction fit (pressed in). Not sure how others do it & how hard it is, I use an arbor press so it presses right out with very little effort for me. The Phoenix v4 (ERA clone) is exactly the same. In fact they are pretty much the same design except the Squid has a chrome plated brass base w/ aluminum caps & the Phoenix v4 uses a SS base w/ SS cap.

On my Mini 2.1 I use a Squid cap on the Phoenix v4 base (I like the black anodized cap). The thumbscrews on the Squid were nice at first but I found myself have to use pliers to tighten them with thicker guage wires which defeated the purpose of them. They both perform the same though.






 

pesky_human

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FYI - I learned yesterday that a piece of 27g Kanthal will fit in the post hole. It's about as big as you are going to fit in there, so if you are going to be doing Rene or twisted wire or multiple coils, it is probably not going to work, but if you are going to be doing normal single coils with anything up to 27g, you are good to go without the larger hole.
 

FeistyAlice

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The Squid's post is not screwed in, it's a friction fit (pressed in). Not sure how others do it & how hard it is, I use an arbor press so it presses right out with very little effort for me. The Phoenix v4 (ERA clone) is exactly the same. In fact they are pretty much the same design except the Squid has a chrome plated brass base w/ aluminum caps & the Phoenix v4 uses a SS base w/ SS cap.

On my Mini 2.1 I use a Squid cap on the Phoenix v4 base (I like the black anodized cap). The thumbscrews on the Squid were nice at first but I found myself have to use pliers to tighten them with thicker guage wires which defeated the purpose of them. They both perform the same though.







Thanks very much. That helps. I'm kinda partial to the black anodized cap, too.
 
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