So...
I often had a tough time getting the chimney of the rba base of my Kanger STM to come loose from the deck. I tried rubber bands. I tried gripping the base by the juice holes with scissors whole I tried to unscrew the chimney. Decent results. But, what always perplexed me was that it wouldn't budge... Wouldn't budge...wouldn't budge... Then unscrew smooth as silk.
Now...
I loosen, but don't remove, the cap of the chimney (base, chimney and cap all together). Then I simply loosen the base.
Seems that the walls of the chimney are of such a thickness that if you don't have both ends of that cylinder threaded into something round (base and cap), the pressure required to get a grip on the thing is enough to temporarily deform the thing just enough to cause undo friction on the targeted threads.
Still doesn't help me with irritating tendency of the chimney cap to stay put on the stem when I unscrew to refill, but, hey, progress is progress, huh?
I often had a tough time getting the chimney of the rba base of my Kanger STM to come loose from the deck. I tried rubber bands. I tried gripping the base by the juice holes with scissors whole I tried to unscrew the chimney. Decent results. But, what always perplexed me was that it wouldn't budge... Wouldn't budge...wouldn't budge... Then unscrew smooth as silk.
Now...
I loosen, but don't remove, the cap of the chimney (base, chimney and cap all together). Then I simply loosen the base.
Seems that the walls of the chimney are of such a thickness that if you don't have both ends of that cylinder threaded into something round (base and cap), the pressure required to get a grip on the thing is enough to temporarily deform the thing just enough to cause undo friction on the targeted threads.
Still doesn't help me with irritating tendency of the chimney cap to stay put on the stem when I unscrew to refill, but, hey, progress is progress, huh?
