Adjusting Kayfun Lite center post > There is no adjustment to it (pics)

[Flt Simulation]

Here is another question for you good folks as it pertains to this kayfun Lite clone I have:

I have read a few posts where people have talked about adjusting the "center post" (if that's even the correct nomenclature for it)

First photo shows the bottom of the base assembly. The center post is screwed down tight (even thought it still sticks out slightly)

Second photo shows the air hole going through the center of this same center post. This center post is threaded on the end and tightly secures the post that has the coil attachment screw in it. There is also a white nylon insulator sandwiched under this piece (you can see in the photo).

All I am trying to say is that at least on my kayfun clone, there is no adjustment to the center post ... It needs to be tightened completely or that little section of the other post that attaches the coil will be loose.

So .. Again, I can not see how there is any adjustment that can be made to the center post, other than it be fully tightened.

Ron,

 

[folkphys]

They might be referring to other versions or clone versions, specifically and for example the KF 3.1, KFL+ "Black Russian", the Russian 91%, and the Russian where the center pin is actually a compound screw. Two screws where the bottom screw makes contact with the mod and is screwed into the larger screw/central air shaft that threads upward into the positive terminal block. As such, that bottom little screw can be adjusted without loosening your coil -- at least in theory.

 

[Flt Simulation]

In fact, here is a close-up of the center post with the hole going down through the center of it.

These threads on top of this center post secure the post above it that the coil wire attaches to ... This center post needs to be fully tightened (no adjustment to it)

 

[Flt Simulation]

They might be referring to other versions or clone versions, specifically and for example the KF 3.1, KFL+ "Black Russian", the Russian 91%, and the Russian where the center pin is actually a compound screw. Two screws where the bottom screw makes contact with the mod and is screwed into the larger screw/central air shaft that threads upward into the positive terminal block. As such, that bottom little screw can be adjusted without loosening your coil -- at least in theory.

Your more than likely right. I didn't realize there was a difference between these various models of basically the same thing.

 

[Flt Simulation]

In that very close-up photo I took ... See how rough the threads look on the base

They look good with the naked eye, but look horrible when viewed in micro like this

On the other hand, those threads on the center post are really nice even when seen in micro.

 

[folkphys]

Your more than likely right. I didn't realize there was a difference between these various models of basically the same thing.

It is thoroughly confusing to be sure. Though with all these variations it seems not a single one of the so-called R91 clones have got the side airflow adjustment and entry correctly. That is, they all seem to have the two holes backwards, with the slanted hole used as adjustment and the straight hole as the inlet. This is why they all whistle far more than the legit R91 and also why the legit KFL+ has its airflow adjustment on the bottom (inconveniently located, but takes care of the whistle).

 

[duroSIG556R]

My russian 91% has been leaking out of the 510 lately. In order to screw down the block nice and tight, the 510 pin has to remain loose or it won't make contact with my mod. Upon examining the 510 pin, it looks like it's missing some material. Maybe that's not making a decent seal with the o-ring. I'm going back and forth with the dealer, now they want a picture...What a hassle. I find the one piece clones to be a better design.

 

[yotogi]

I am assuming that is a clone KFL. I have two of them, one with the problem you describe. I can't even get it to screw into my MVP because the center post is so far out. My local B&M is going to replace it today as a DOA unit.

Gotta love the knockoffs for the price, but this is sometimes what you get to deal with. And I like the junk in your airflow hole there too!

 

[duroSIG556R]

I am assuming that is a clone KFL. I have two of them, one with the problem you describe. I can't even get it to screw into my MVP because the center post is so far out. My local B&M is going to replace it today as a DOA unit.

Gotta love the knockoffs for the price, but this is sometimes what you get to deal with. And I like the junk in your airflow hole there too!

No, i'm talking about the actual russian 91%. My clones have a one piece 510 screw. Sure they stick out a tad, but they work.

 

[Flt Simulation]

And I like the junk in your airflow hole there too!

Yup ... That nylon came from the nylon sleeve that in the base of the Kayfun. The sharp edges of the 2 little holes in the side of the center 'post' obviously scraped some of this material into those 2 holes.

I used some 800 grit wet / dry sandpaper and smoothed the surface where those 2 holes are ... no more rough edges on the holes now, and the center post slides a little easier into the hole now ... won't plug with crap anymore

 

[duroSIG556R]

message deleted.

 

[folkphys]

My russian 91% has been leaking out of the 510 lately. In order to screw down the block nice and tight, the 510 pin has to remain loose or it won't make contact with my mod. Upon examining the 510 pin, it looks like it's missing some material. Maybe that's not making a decent seal with the o-ring. I'm going back and forth with the dealer, now they want a picture...What a hassle. I find the one piece clones to be a better design.

My R91 tends to have the same leak. I seemed to have mitigated the issue with three things:

1. Teflon tape around the circular part of the positive block isolator
2. Teflon tape around the centerpin between the threading and the airholes
3. A stacked pair of O-rings on the tiny 510 screw.