advice? Vision Spinner plus Kanger T3 Mini -burnt if over 4.3V

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evelester

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Mar 5, 2013
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Lake City, FL
So I finally upgraded from the old 510 and got a vision Spinner and a Kanger tank, of all the tanks I have tried the Kanger is the first I really like, no leaking issues yet.

I ordered a new coil thing -
1 x510 EGO Kanger T3 Replacement Coil (T3 coil)
Resistence LR

and if I turn the spinner past 4.3V it tastes burnt, sometimes I have to go between 3.8V and 4.3V to get it to stop burning.

did I get the wrong resistance? if I want to smoke at the higher voltage do I need to get regular resistance instead of the low? Still trying to learn all the technical stuff.

Thanks in advance!!
 

candimccann

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Mar 15, 2012
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How does it taste and perform at 4 volts? 4.2? If you're happy with it, don't worry.

Most clearomizers perform better at a lower voltage than a similar resistance atomizer or cartomizer. That's just the way they are. Most of mine perform best in the 4 to 4.2 range.

A higher voltage does require a higher resistance, but the end result is a similar vape to a lower voltage/lower resistance.
It's not all about voltage.

Higher isn't always 'better' and just because it's variable doesn't mean you should keep it at the highest setting.
 

bazmonkey

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Jan 25, 2013
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Oakland, CA
that does help, it does not 'bother' me, I just wanted to be sure I wasn't going to break it by getting the wrong one (if I was getting the wrong one)

You're not in danger of breaking the battery, but running a low-resistance device at a high voltage could pop the coil. An average LR coil (1.8 ohms) could be popped by a twist if you really cranked it.

And like candimccann said, the sweet spot should be around 3.8. The batteries in e-cigs typically run at 3.7 volts "natively", so that's why LR heads are around 1.8 ohms: to run off a non-VV device in the sweet spot.

In the future, get a resistance closer to 2.4 ohms if you want to be able to play with the voltage more... but you should still get about the same quality vape with the LR heads at a lower voltage. *Wattage* is what we're ultimately trying to adjust by changing the resistance and voltage, so with a VV battery and heads in varying resistance, you're kinda solving the problem twice. I mean, either aim for a voltage and get a resistance to match, or get whatever resistance and adjust voltage to match, you know? You don't need both.
 
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