Aero tank questions

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Miata GT

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EVen after they start tasting burnt I would remove the atty, remove the chimney, rinse the atty in hot water, soak it in vodka overnight, rinse again, screw the atty onto the aero base then put the base on your mod, finally, dry burn the coil to get the gunk off by pulsing the power at a low setting (you'll know when you're done as the coil will stop smoking and stinking).

I have some coils from my T3Ss that I have been doing like this for over 5 months.
 

Btsmokincat

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Save the spent coils, just in case you decide to rebuild them someday!

Pretty easy to rebuild and my aerotank rocks with a single microcoil! The flavor is SO much better!

Aeromicro1.jpg

Aeromicro2.JPG
 
I also recently bought a Kanger Aerotank and am having a problem with it producing enough vapor. It is a dual-coil, with the factory 2.0 ohm coils. I am using it with an EVOD 1000mAh (new) battery, and even with the battery fully charged, the vapor production is very weak. I am also using 100% VG juice, which I know is harder to vaporize.

The literature that comes with the tank states that a 2.0 ohm should work between 3.7 and 5.5 volts, and my battery is a 3.7 volt constant, not variable voltage. The vapor production is very bad. If I "pre-warm" the coils by energizing the battery for 3-4 seconds before taking a hit, I get pretty good vapor, so it seems 3.7 volts is just inadequate for a 2.0 ohm dual coil with 100% juice.

My question is this: There are replacement coils available that are 1.5 ohms, and I know I could go with the EVOD variable voltage battery, which would let me crank the voltage up all the way to 4.8 volts--which would still be within spec according to the tank literature. Which would you do? Or do you think, with the 100% VG juice, that maybe I should do both? How will the 1.5 ohm coil tolerate the higher voltage--or will it at all?

I do not mod (at least not yet!) so I am really looking for an answer that would be do-able with factory parts.
 

jamie0516

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I also recently bought a Kanger Aerotank and am having a problem with it producing enough vapor. It is a dual-coil, with the factory 2.0 ohm coils. I am using it with an EVOD 1000mAh (new) battery, and even with the battery fully charged, the vapor production is very weak. I am also using 100% VG juice, which I know is harder to vaporize.

The literature that comes with the tank states that a 2.0 ohm should work between 3.7 and 5.5 volts, and my battery is a 3.7 volt constant, not variable voltage. The vapor production is very bad. If I "pre-warm" the coils by energizing the battery for 3-4 seconds before taking a hit, I get pretty good vapor, so it seems 3.7 volts is just inadequate for a 2.0 ohm dual coil with 100% juice.

My question is this: There are replacement coils available that are 1.5 ohms, and I know I could go with the EVOD variable voltage battery, which would let me crank the voltage up all the way to 4.8 volts--which would still be within spec according to the tank literature. Which would you do? Or do you think, with the 100% VG juice, that maybe I should do both? How will the 1.5 ohm coil tolerate the higher voltage--or will it at all?

I do not mod (at least not yet!) so I am really looking for an answer that would be do-able with factory parts.

I have the same problem even with my 50/50 liquid on my mvp2. Hope someone answers your question
 

edyle

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I also recently bought a Kanger Aerotank and am having a problem with it producing enough vapor. It is a dual-coil, with the factory 2.0 ohm coils. I am using it with an EVOD 1000mAh (new) battery, and even with the battery fully charged, the vapor production is very weak. I am also using 100% VG juice, which I know is harder to vaporize.

The literature that comes with the tank states that a 2.0 ohm should work between 3.7 and 5.5 volts, and my battery is a 3.7 volt constant, not variable voltage. The vapor production is very bad. If I "pre-warm" the coils by energizing the battery for 3-4 seconds before taking a hit, I get pretty good vapor, so it seems 3.7 volts is just inadequate for a 2.0 ohm dual coil with 100% juice.

My question is this: There are replacement coils available that are 1.5 ohms, and I know I could go with the EVOD variable voltage battery, which would let me crank the voltage up all the way to 4.8 volts--which would still be within spec according to the tank literature. Which would you do? Or do you think, with the 100% VG juice, that maybe I should do both? How will the 1.5 ohm coil tolerate the higher voltage--or will it at all?

I do not mod (at least not yet!) so I am really looking for an answer that would be do-able with factory parts.

Rule of thumb is 5 watts per coil on those commercial 30 gauge silica wicked stock coils.
watts = volts x volts /ohms

For 5 watts per coil on a 2 ohm dual coil, that's 10 watts:
10 = v x v / 2
20 = v x v
4.5 volts = v
You want more like 4.5 volts for that dual coil.

With a 1.5 dual coil
v = 3.9 volts
So the 1.5 ohm coil sounds right on the plain battery.

Best to have a vv (regulated voltage) power source so you can adjust voltage instead of having to look for the right ohms; plus regulated voltage keeps the average (rms) voltage constant whereas the plain battery deteriorates over time.
 

molimelight

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Save the spent coils, just in case you decide to rebuild them someday!

Pretty easy to rebuild and my aerotank rocks with a single microcoil! The flavor is SO much better!

View attachment 330335

View attachment 330336

What size is the coil diameter (size drill bit or whatever)?
What wire size?
How many wraps?
What is the ohm reading?

I've been rebuilding my PT2 Mini heads with good results for the most part, but I'm still experimenting with wire sizes and diameters and I've been using cotton yarn (boiled) instead of cotton balls.
 

AwaxJago

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Apr 29, 2014
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I rebuilt one last night; there's both youtube and some picture walkthroughs easily found with Google ... Build went well, too low at 1.7 ohm single coil, taste is rotten (old juice, and I need to clean the tank). Truthfully since I started dripping I haven't touched the aerotank. Might try a cleaning and better rebuild later, for now I am a happy cloud chaser <_<
 

AwaxJago

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Apr 29, 2014
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BC, Canada
What size is the coil diameter (size drill bit or whatever)?
What wire size?
How many wraps?
What is the ohm reading?

I've been rebuilding my PT2 Mini heads with good results for the most part, but I'm still experimenting with wire sizes and diameters and I've been using cotton yarn (boiled) instead of cotton balls.

In the youtube vid I watched, the guy used a zip tie to create an oblong coil, I think I did 8 or 9 wraps with 28 gauge, cotton wick, measured at 1.7 ohms.. Wasn't ideal, I won't be using it.
 

Btsmokincat

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Waterville ME
What size is the coil diameter (size drill bit or whatever)?
What wire size?
How many wraps?
What is the ohm reading?

I've been rebuilding my PT2 Mini heads with good results for the most part, but I'm still experimenting with wire sizes and diameters and I've been using cotton yarn (boiled) instead of cotton balls.

The picture was my first attempt. I think it was a 8 or 9 wrap, 30 gauge 2 mm diameter and I forget the Ohm's. After that I started using 6 wraps which equals 1.5 ohm. I use it on my Sigelei Zmax V3 mostly.

With Kanger Protank single coils I use a 1.4 mm micro screwdriver to wrap on and it fits nicely in the channel on the head to hold the coil in place as I install the grommet and pin.

With the Aerotank however, a 1.4 mm coil was not going to cut it. I use a 2 mm micro screwdriver to make the coil. I pinch it and torch with a Bernzomatic torch to make it tight. I then wick the coil with a three inch tightly twisted pinch of sterile cotton. Feed the leads and pinch the cotton downward on either side of the head to hold the coil in place as grommet and pin are installed. I clip the cotton and fluff each side with a toothpick to make nice fluffy clouds sticking out. Has worked like a charm everytime!
 
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