AGA-T2 stem replacement specs here (and a .2Ω drop)

[pdib]

So I finally bought an assortment of screws and figured out what works for an AGA-T2. When I took one apart to clean and retrofit it, I saved the coil as I had just built it. When I got it all back together, I found that my .8Ω setup (whole atomizer reading) was now a .5Ω setup! After filling it and a few vapes, I checked it again, and it was at .6Ω! It is the positive post, after all; but, man, that was a fun little discovery. Anyway; 3mm x 50mm machine screw with appropriate nuts, washer and lock washers. The washer and nuts need to be ground down on their OD to work. (one nut is ground in the pics) The 2" length is perfect. The lock washers are good for getting the large nut away from the fill screws. Also, I'm hoping with the lock washers and the philip's head on the screw, I can lock the post into place and not have that Pushy-uppy b---sh-- going on. The bugle head on the screw doesn't seem to pose any problem at all.

View attachment 189609View attachment 189610View attachment 189611

Edit: grind those nuts down alot, mine are still just barely small enough. Sorry, its all stainless. (and still performing so much better)

EDIT: . . . . Later . . . . got the 2nd one done. No miraculous gain in effieciency. Maybe .1Ω. But while I had it apart I squeaked the 1/8 wick bore I did out to 9/64. . . .. you know, to fit my 2 layers of ss mesh over the 1/8" fishtick I had. (yeah. that's still workin for me) "HOW, tho" you ask "when you knew 1/8 was risky before?" (EDIT) RAPID TAP! (cutting fluid) That stuff is amazing! Like butter. Anyhow, now my post isn't stripped out anymore; which was the point to begin with.

 

[vanillagurilla]

Not a bad idea, now I'm thinking of doing this with a brass screw

 

[jasl90]

Great idea! I was actually thinking something close to this... I was thinking about trying to replace the original pos post with a brass screw. Brass should make a better electrical connection that the steel.
Thanks for posting the correct dimensions!

 

[StaircaseWit]

Brass in contact with juice (even though it's minimal) should be avoided with things like screws. They often use a brass that has lead content.

 

[pdib]

I was looking for brass too. I wasn't online tho; now we have the specs, we can buy online and find brass. We have the best hardware store in the world out here. The stainless is making excellent freeway for those little e-trons. I've got two more agas to re-do. I'll post about consistence of lowered resistance.

 

[pdib]

Jasl90 . . . . . mini drippin on the brass screw!

 

[jasl90]

Brass in contact with juice (even though it's minimal) should be avoided with things like screws. They often use a brass that has lead content.

Unfortunately, the same can be said for stainless steel. Since we're talking about a low cost, Chinese made, atty... I'm pretty sure they didn't go to the expense of using surgical grade steel.

 

[pdib]

oh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

 

[jasl90]

Jasl90 . . . . . mini drippin on the brass screw!

Not yet... But soon my friend... Soon...
Guess it wouldn't hurt to contact the supplier and see if they know what alloy my screws are made of... Hmmmm

 

[StaircaseWit]

Not yet... But soon my friend... Soon...
Guess it wouldn't hurt to contact the supplier and see if they know what alloy my screws are made of... Hmmmm

Common hardware stainless steel screws are designated 18-8 (18% chromium 8% nickel) and are of series 300 stainless. They are almost always 304 or 316 stainless unless custom ordered or in-house manufactured, but they don't always use that designation because of its stringency. They very rarely would use an alloy containing lead -- and it's easy to test for it with a common household lead testing kit if you're worried.

Drill shavings from the AGA-T2 have shown to be lead free with such a test.

 

[jasl90]

Jasl90 . . . . . mini drippin on the brass screw!

Got me thinking... The ss mesh version is going to need a "sleeve" to insulate the mesh from the screw.
I had two possible plans...
1) Use a piece of heavily oxidized ss tube from a syringe needle. I know that works because that's what the current pos post is made of.
2) Glass enamel. I've done a little research and it can be fired on w a blow torch. I'm just worried that any flexing at all would cause it to chip or crack...

May consider carrying the idea over to the fish wick version too...

 

[jasl90]

Common hardware stainless steel screws are designated 18-8 (18% chromium 8% nickel) and are of series 300 stainless. They are almost always 304 or 316 stainless unless custom ordered or in-house manufactured, but they don't always use that designation because of its stringency. They very rarely would use an alloy containing lead -- and it's easy to test for it with a common household lead testing kit if you're worried.

Drill shavings from the AGA-T2 have shown to be lead free with such a test.

Good info. Good to know. Makes me feel better about my AGA.

 

[pdib]

Am editing original post with subsequent rebuild updates.

 

[pdib]

Oops. I called the cutting fluid "Fast Tap"; no no, its RAPID TAP.

 

[LaVsy]

what the size of the stainless steel washer?

 

[pdib]

I think it was an M3. Where I bought it, it was all in the same little box. Look for M3 washer and M3 lock washer