An analog multimeter still needs a battery to check atomizer ohm?

[veganvap]

Pretty sure it does, just making sure. Harbor Freight has digital ones for $2.99 including battery, but I'd rather not deal with batteries.

I know analogs don't need a battery when testing volts from something that actually gives off power, but not positive about resistance and ohms, if there's some kind of reactor or something inside that triggers a reading or if it doesn't need a battery with the atomizer connected to a PV battery? Thanks.

 

[Eddie.Willers]

To test resistance, you have to push some power through the thing being tested.

So, yes - any meter, analogue or digital, needs a battery to test resistance.

 

[veganvap]

Do I need a battery with an analog if the attomizer I'm checking's connected to the PV battery?

 

[veganvap]

bump
thanks

 

[eHuman]

All multi-meters both analog and digital require a battery. If changing a battery once every 1 -3 years is a pain, then charging your PV battery must be hell.

 

[veganvap]

No, it's just more parts to deal with.

You're positive an analog needs a battery to check coil ohm resistance if it's already connected to the PV battery?

 

[st0nedpenguin]

Stick battery in meter, don't touch it for years.

Hardly more parts to deal with.

 

[dirtyrigger]

The meter doesn't know how much power you're pv is pushing to the atomizer, so yes, no matter what you need a battery in the meter if you care to know the resistance of a circuit.

 

[finagle69]

Are you asking if the multi-meter itself needs a battery? Yes, usually the little watch type batteries.

Are you asking if the load needs to be screwed down to an ecig battery? No. Don't do that.

 

[eHuman]

If changing a battery every few years is too much of a pain; Get an APV that has built in battery and resistance checking. Good luck finding one that doesn't need a battery change one a day though.

 

[eHuman]

My Fluke 87 RMS multi-meter uses a 9v battery. It has had three in there (2 battery changes) since 2001. I use it almost every day.

 

[veganvap]

thanks.

I'll get the $2.99 harbor freight digi one that includes a battery. I probably won't forget to turn it off if it doesn't auto-off. I read it's sort of jittery but works fine for most people.
I guess testing it while on the battery might short it, IDK, but I won't try it.

I gotta subtract the resistance of the red and black leads wires coming out of the multimeter when touched together from the final reading, but do I have to put the coil in the head slot instead of just testing the bare coil wires wrapped around the wick? Makes sense and I think I read so, but I can't find the thread (at least untill I know how much to account for without it to speed up building lotsa spares).

 

[eHuman]

Just test resistance across the coil and subtract nominal meter Ω. If you want to test it under load you need to build or buy a rig to do so.

 

[veganvap]

You're saying if I want a 2.4 ohm coil, I can just keep trimming down a piece of kanthal untill it reads 2.4 when I test both ends of just a piece of straight cut wire, and it will stay 2.4 after it's built and connected to the extra metal of the head?

Everyone says to test to: touch one lead to the threads (the threads of a rebuildable head like a vivi nova/kanger evod which then screws into the 'main assembly of the PV, not the battery threads) and the other to the 'center pin'. The center pin is not the coil itself and is the positive connector that connect to the battery's output? In the ohm test videos I found, they use a cartomizer atty I'm not familiar with and can't tell if there's a coil in that hole or if it's the part that touches the PV battery (always/usually a tiny metal cylinder that inserts inside a previously inserted tiny rubber grounding grommet on a rebuildable like a vivi nova or kanger bottom coil).

They also say that when touching a lead to the threads, it has to be the threads that connect the head to the main assembly, not the tank threads, and nowhere else on the head/tank, which would make testing a kanger T3/MT3 head nearly impossible because there are no threads and it would be impossible without connecting like a 'L' bend connector to the end of the multimeter lead to get to the tiny space on the 'other side of the metal wall' where the end of the negative wire sits. Also, the rubber grommet that seperates the + and - wire ends overlaps that 'wall', so the straight end of the multimeter lead wouldn't reach it and if I go in on an angle, then the multimeter lead would touch a metal part of the base (the ego threads) before it touches the 'other side of the metal wall' where the end of the negative wire is,, so I'd need like a 'L' shaped attachment for the multimeter lead. ? All the T3 rebuild tutorials, they use the box item you screw a coil into and it reads it like a PV battery that tells ohms. I searched T3 rebuilding threads and found nothing about multimeters.

A T3 head:

 

[veganvap]

In other words,
This is a T3 head enclosed in ego threading which doesn't come apart.

If the red things are the ends of the multimeter leads, I won't be able to touch the 'wall' on the left where the end of the negative wire sits. It looks posible in the image but it's not on a real T3 head. So I would need an 'L'-shaped attachment to the multimeter lead, or can I just touch it stright down to the 'green rectange' metal or even the outside of the whole ego threaded enclosure if it weren't coated to not be conductive?


The yellow is the grounding grommet.
Is the blue square the 'center pin' that everyone refers to which is where I put one end of the multimeter to?

 

[veganvap]

sorry long and new question. thanks in advance.

 

[eHuman]

You're saying if I want a 2.4 ohm coil, I can just keep trimming down a piece of kanthal untill it reads 2.4 when I test both ends of just a piece of straight cut wire, and it will stay 2.4 after it's built and connected to the extra metal of the head?

I don't believe anyone said that.Touch test leads to both sides of wrapped coil. Or mount your coil and test for resistance between your positive post and negative case.

 

[eHuman]

Double post

 

[veganvap]

"I don't believe anyone said that" That's what I thought you meant by saying "Just test resistance across the coil and subtract nominal meter Ω" when I asked if I can just test a straight cut off kanthal piece and it being the same after it's wrapped and put in the coil head.

You said that or do this: "If you want to test it under load you need to build or buy a rig to do so"

What did you mean by needing a rig to test it under load?







"Touch test leads to both sides of wrapped coil."

Literally, I can just put both ends of the multimeter to both sides of the wrapped coil (like 1/4" apart) and find the correct ohms? Correction to what I asked earlier about just cutting a straight piece of wire and testing the ohms before wrapping it: There would be excess that ends up cut off after it's all put together unless I cut the wire the exact length without needing to trim the ends to finish it up. I'm pretty sure I read others talking about this and not only did they mention how the excess that's cut off would change the resistance of course, but also that: the reading must be done with the coil all put together in the head and using the positive post and negative case.?

"Or mount your coil and test for resistance between your positive post and negative case."

So in the case of the kanger T3 coil picture, if I can't get the red multimeter lead on the left to touch right against the opposite side of the 'wall' that the negative wire ends at, I just touch it to the 'green spot' and it will be close enough, and the further from that 'wall' I put the multimeter lead, the more off the reading is?

Thanks

 

[Cjax]

When you check ohms or for continuity, even if the coil is attached to the pv, battery installed, you're not firing the battery, ay least I hope not. The power supplied to the coil has to come from the meter. When you're checking volts the pv gets fired so the power comes from the pv.