Any suggestions on what to do with a dna250c?

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bombastinator

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so after I decided to junk the housing on my vapecigge 250c I have salvaged the board and the connector.

Now I get to build a new device. Any suggestions on where to look? I’m thinking of doing either a batteryless USB device or a dual 2x700

If I do a batteryless device. The thing will be getting 5v @ 1500 ma all the time. Can a DNA250c board handle that from the leads? It’s got one positive and two negative leads.
 

bombastinator

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Pretty sure the 2 negatives are bridged, and referred to as Common Ground. So it is a single one, with 2 connection points.

Don't hold me to that though. Verify on evolv site or similar.
Looks like they’re separate for purposes of battery balancing. Something the vapecigge people didn’t bother to wire for.
Any opinions on the USB idea? My impression is a DNA75 would do it but a DNA 250 won’t. Can’t be sure though.
 

Rossum

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If I do a batteryless device. The thing will be getting 5v @ 1500 ma all the time. Can a DNA250c board handle that from the leads? It’s got one positive and two negative leads.
I doubt 5V is sufficent as an input for a DNA 2xx. It requires a 2S battery at minimum, so it probably won't be happy under 6V at the input. However, it will work just fine from a 12V supply, such as the lighter socket in your car. :D
 

bombastinator

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I doubt 5V is sufficent as an input for a DNA 2xx. It requires a 2S battery at minimum, so it probably won't be happy under 6V at the input. However, it will work just fine from a 12V supply, such as the lighter socket in your car. :D
This I can arrange :evil: We have a winner.

So I’ve been reading about cigarette lighter ports. Voltage fluctuates a bit wildly depending on what the car is doing. 6v-14.5v. This won’t be an issue? All I got to do is wire a car cigarette lighter port to the thing and go?
 
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Rossum

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:thumb:
Specs state minimum unloaded input voltage = 6 volts
Yeah, it's been a long time since I looked at that stuff.

When the DNA200 was brand new, I inquired with Evolv as to the maximum input voltage, because I was thinking about making a battery-less one for my car. IIRC, the maximum was 16V then, which would have worked fine (a car's electrical system should be between 13 and 15V when it's running). I would guess the 250 type devices can handle even higher since they support 4S batteries, not just 3S.
 

Doffy

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Hi B,
Check this site when it comes back up: #florisbox

The USB power is not sufficient at 1.5amp and 5V, it is below the min spec for the 250C board.

Some dude on reddit made a DNA pass-through; should work fine with the 250C
Imgur

Cheers
I
The floris 250c are huge. But @laurie9300 made one

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bombastinator

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Hi B,
Check this site when it comes back up: #florisbox

The USB power is not sufficient at 1.5amp and 5V, it is below the min spec for the 250C board.

Some dude on reddit made a DNA pass-through; should work fine with the 250C
Imgur

Cheers
I
Was looking at bench top power supplies. I don’t got one. Well I do, sorta, but it’s ancient, industrial grade, all brass and copper, weights more the 50lb, and I was thinking of saving it for a variable voltage mech hookah (it’s totally mechanical! Yes it’s that large and that old) Not a preferred solution.
 
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Rossum

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This I can arrange :evil: We have a winner.

So I’ve been reading about cigarette lighter ports. Voltage fluctuates a bit wildly depending on what the car is doing. 6v-14.5v. This won’t be an issue? All I got to do is wire a car cigarette lighter port to the thing and go?
Nah, it should never be less than the voltage of your battery, and if that's much below 12V, your car won't start anyway. With the car running, it should be between 13 and 15V.

One thing though: Check how your car's lighter socket is fused. Most often they're on a 10A circuit, so you probably don't want to set your DNA for more than about 100W lest you blow that fuse.

When the DNA200 was brand new, I had intended to play with it and didn't want to mess with 3S LiPo batteries, so I bought a 30A fixed-output 13.4V power supply. I never did bother to play with it, but the supply works fine as a car battery charger -- LOL.
 

bombastinator

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Nah, it should never be less than the voltage of your battery, and if that's much below 12V, your car won't start anyway. With the car running, it should be between 13 and 15V.

One thing though: Check how your car's lighter socket is fused. Most often they're on a 10A circuit, so you probably don't want to set your DNA for more than about 100W lest you blow that fuse.

When the DNA200 was brand new, I had intended to play with it and didn't want to mess with 3S LiPo batteries, so I bought a 30A fixed-output 13.4V power supply. I never did bother to play with it, but the supply works fine as a car battery charger -- LOL.
Well it sounds like that’s the power supply sorted. Now all I got to do is a case
 

Izan

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Rossum

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View attachment 814841

My variable power supply
Seriously old-school! :)

Also, the output is AC. Your DNA won't like that at all. I suppose you could feed in into a bridge rectifier and use some hefty filter capacitors to smooth it, but a modern switching supply like @Izan linked to would be easier.
 

bombastinator

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Seriously old-school! :)

Also, the output is AC. Your DNA won't like that at all. I suppose you could feed in into a bridge rectifier and use some hefty filter capacitors to smooth it, but a modern switching supply like @Izan linked to would be easier.
:cry: I was told the output was DC. That takes all the fun out of it. I wanted to mount a 510 connector on it and turn it into a wall plug desktop vape. One more project I never got to. Lucky thing I guess.
Bridge rectifier huh? Big capacitors are cool. I don’t want the liquid ones though..... snacks for later.

If I’m going to 12v car adapter though they make AC-car adaptor stuff. I think I even have one.
 
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