Arcing constantly.

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TKS

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Anyone know of a cure aside from adding a piece of copper or brass sheet with more surface area?

I clean my contacts with 99% ISO alcohol as well as Deoxit Gold applied on the spring and switch.

This is the newest REO grand LP SP with new 510 and sub ohm switch.

I'm a little confused, but I can post a vid of nearly constant arching when firing and letting the fire button go. I've tried AW IMR/Sony VTC4 and the newest green Samsung 25R2.

All authentic. Also I am firing it on an Origen V3 dripper with a SS BF post (dunno if that makes a difference).

I am running a .25 dual vertical coil build. Also my REO is the gold anodized with black anodized door (don't know if that also has an effect as opposed to others with either all paint or just raw aluminum).

The bottom plate that holds the spring has also been cleaned and has had an application of Noalax applied under it.

All of this was done with a cotton swab to keep everything clean as possible. The Deoxit was applied with the pen to avoid any over application. I've tried letting it set for a few mins before installing the battery. I've also tried waiting days to let it dry as much as possible with no difference.

Also wanted to ask, does it make any difference for anything in terms of electricity, if the atty sits touching the mod, or if it is only hanging by raising the 510 screw?
 

redeyedancer

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The arching is normal that cant be stopped . I don't vape sub ohm myself personally . I do have a some customers and friends that do vape as low as you are . They use noalox on the contact and a little on the positive end of the battery . It wont stop the arching but it will stop the pitting of your contact and your battery . .25 is pushing the envelope if you ask me but hey I love my 1.1 ohm coil and always wonder why anyone would want to vape like you do baffles me honestly but we all like what we like .

Make sure your positive contact is clean and your battery if it has black spots on it you need to clean it off .
 

Sloth Tonight

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Try the deoxit gold brush applicator for the REO, and deoxit red brush applicator for the batteries. The combination of both has eliminated my sparking so long as I maintain once a week. Honestly I think the brush applicator works for me much better than the pen, but it could be the deoxit red on the batteries making all the difference. I had to apply liberal amounts of deoxit (every battery change) prior to this.
 

TKS

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Thanks a lot btw. Being a new vaper I really don't understand how to vape non sub ohm. Maybe reduced chambers of some atties allow for that, but everything I build anything over 1 ohm, I can't understand how it would work with mouth to lung hits.

The arcing doesn't concern me at all now that I checked my batteries and none have that pitting (which was the whole reason I wanted the arching to stop) so I guess the Deoxit actually did do its job. Thank you for the fast reply. I know you must be beyond busy to be taking to the forums like the way you do, and also helping me with an inquiry when I first ordered it. Hands down best customer service I've ever seen. Idk how some of these mod makers are flaking on people's orders in the high end world today, and this is with a controlled amount of devices to be made ( so it's not like they're having too many surprises ) and they still can't do the job you do. Thanks again.

Any tips on how to build this Origen V3 non sub ohm would be great as well for those who have experience that want to chime in.
 

Layzee Vaper

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That seems like a very low ohm build for a new user.... Its going to be pulling over 16A on a fresh battery. With a mechanical switch you will get arcing! What wire gauge etc are you using? You may find that you can build a coil(s) with higher resistance that will give you the vape you want. If you can this will reduce the arcing.

I found the following very useful when looking at how to build.....

Optimizing heat flux for mech mods - chart example | E-Cigarette Forum

Have a play with steam engine if your wire type is not listed.

You can get a very good vape with a mech but you have to consider things a little more than you would with a regulated mod and build accordingly. Certain combinations of wire thickness (and therefore surface area) and resistance will give the best results.

Coil position and the amount of airflow will also make a big difference to the volume and density of the vape.

Hope this helps!
 

Train2

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The what? Haven't seen nor heard of these - got a link?

(Can't help with the arcing - I vape around 0.5 to 0.8 and never get any hint of it!)

I'm a little confused, but I can post a vid of nearly constant arching when firing and letting the fire button go. I've tried AW IMR/Sony VTC4 and the newest green Samsung 25R2.
 

TKS

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The what? Haven't seen nor heard of these - got a link?

(Can't help with the arcing - I vape around 0.5 to 0.8 and never get any hint of it!)

Samsung 25R Upgrade - Green Samsung 25R5 vs. Blue 25R2 – 18650 Battery Bro | Let's Spark a Revolution

These guys are pretty much the go to place I use for battery info. They take a really deep approach. It was from them Iearned VTCs aren't true 30 amp batteries and all these Efests claiming 30-38 continuous amp are flat out lies.

There is a TON of misinformation out there.

Oh and btw to reply to some folks. I tossed my dual 26awg build out and put a single 24awg with 6-7 wraps coming out to .45 ohms. The situation has improved but the vape is pretty cold at this point but still decent when you let it ramp up a bit.
 

TKS

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You want heat move to smaller wire like 28-30 gauge.

Don't get it. Why and how many wraps would you recommend? Dual or single coil? Spaced or? Also I enjoy warm dense vapes, Im not concerned with vapor production. Also would enjoy direct lung hits. Mouth to lung hits people talk about and say have flavor is nonsense to me, aside from the throat hit, it's nearly muted after the first second of exhale.
 

SteamStack

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No idea what size coil you need to build on that atty. You'll have to test and see how many wraps. Usually 7-8 wraps is good.

I use the 2.5mm bit on the coil master. Most use 1.5mm or 2mm.

The smaller the coil wire the quicker it will heat up to release that vaper and flavor which only comes when your coil gets hot.

Large wire produces a slow climb in heat so you need to do direct lung hits just get hit it long enough to for the coil to get hot enough to release the flavor and vapor.

Smaller air hole as well on the coil. Too much air won't get you the flavor just slot of vapor.
 

TKS

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Tried lower diameter but since this is vertical coils the wicking from lower than 2.5 diameter is too small to siphon fast enough for the heat produced.

It's really a never ending expirament to get coil ramp up/wicking speed to match up with vapor density and flavor. That's why I can't understand how any build over 1 ohm on this thing would be viable. On reduced chambers I can see, but this thing is pretty much a genny converted to dripper function with BF capability.
 
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