Arctic fox vs stock firmware

[Dropmyload]

so I just installed arctic fox on my reuleaux 20700 and some observations :

1. In wattage mode, I've had to dail down the watts. Was at 31.5 on stock firmware, now at 27.5w.
2. In tc, resistance is finicky, keeps moving even when mod is not in use. Had to lock resistance.
3. Again in tc mode had to dail down wattage else it would keep displayimg protection, which I don't know what it means.
4. Complicated as hell lol. Not sure what half the stuff is.

Any af users here with tips and tricks?

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

Displaying 'protection' means it is doing what it is suppose to do since your settings would tend to degrade or possibly do harm to you or the mod.
The mod is reading the resistance and has no memory so if the resistance keeps moving it means something is wrong with the coil installed. Either a screw is loose or a wire bent in the wrong place or even a faulty base unit. maybe the legs aren't short enough to not touch the outside of the barrel?

 

[Dropmyload]

I changed atomisers, even the second one has resistance hopping around. Thats a stock coil cl4.

Very strange.

 

[bsidb]

,,

 

[bsidb]

so I just installed arctic fox on my Reuleaux 20700 and some observations :

1. In wattage mode, I've had to dail down the watts. Was at 31.5 on stock firmware, now at 27.5w.
2. In tc, resistance is finicky, keeps moving even when mod is not in use. Had to lock resistance.
3. Again in tc mode had to dail down wattage else it would keep displayimg protection, which I don't know what it means.
4. Complicated as hell lol. Not sure what half the stuff is.

Any af users here with tips and tricks?

if it aint broke.....

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

Use the device monitor feature from the tools screen. It will show live resistance and cold resistance.

You can take a long drag while in TC and watch the process on the device monitor screen.

Resistance fluctuation is normal with a few hundredths to a tenth of an Ohm. This can be caused by temperature flucuation or even the mod constantly checking resistance with a very small amount of current. The more sensitive the metal, the more fluctuation. You can watch this on the device monitor, too.

It will fluctuate more with factory stock coils than a dedicated RTA or RBA. A stock coil has leads trapped with a pliable insulator. That connection can vary, and so will resistance.

I prefer AF over the factory firmware because once you get the hang of it, your ability to customize performance is exponentially better.

 

[Dropmyload]

Another arctic fox question: how do I adjust the battery voltage for cut-off? i.e. how do I set say 3.1V for the mod to turn off so I have to change batteries?
Anyone know? Can't find it on the arctic fox forums.

 

[icebat]

Another arctic fox question: how do I adjust the battery voltage for cut-off? i.e. how do I set say 3.1V for the mod to turn off so I have to change batteries?
Anyone know? Can't find it on the arctic fox forums.

Quoted from the Arcticfox thread under the temp control section of the forum. Link to thread. Uniform firmware for many devices - ArcticFox + NFirmwareEditor See bold below.

@WickedWicks

Battery Voltage Offset (BVO) is something different Wicks.

af_171228.bin I think is the newest version out, and the one that I am using.

Start the ArcticFox NToolbox Configuration Screen,
go to the "Advanced" tab,
then the "Settings" tab,
then find "Battery Model" and click "Generic Battery",
and "User1",
then the "Edit" tab right beside it.
Once into "Edit" you can reset your Battery Cut Off Voltage from the default of 3.35v (I think for WisMec devices) to like what I have on my P80 which is now 3.10v (this is a Battery Profile so don't forget to save it after you have done all your adjustments, and rename it to some other Name than "User1").
This also works for af_170914.bin. I'm also using NToolbox 171128.