Are all 3.7 volt devices the same?

[FRANKSTER]

Hello everyone...I thought you might find this interesting. I have a link below of a reviewer whose name is Rob. His contention is that it does not matter what device you use at 3.7 volts. They are all the same. He comparing the e-go, omega, protege, silver bullet and a few others. He goes to say pretty much that we, the consumers are being lied to.

I personally do not care. I have my k-go at 3.7 and I have my silver bullet at 3.7 and 6volts. The only thing that matters to me is that I enjoy vaping and have not looked back since the very first time I put the e-cig in my mouth..not once.

You still might find it interesting, so have some fun and enjoy and maybe give everyone your opinions on his assertion.

Kanal von terraphon - YouTube

 

[Stosh]

And the answer would be.....yes and no..
All 3,7v devices start out at ~4.2v surface charge that quickly dissipates and will operate
at a nominal 3.7v for the life of the battery, until recharge.

Now the differences, a higher mah battery will stay at the 3.7v nominal longer without sagging as much.

Also a high drain battery (in a mod) will produce more amperage, able to supply a low resistance carto or atty better.
Then there is the internal resistance of the battery, robs some of the voltage the carto is trying to use.

The resistance of the circuitry and switch, if any will also drop the voltage the carto is looking for.

soooo you will see some differences in a PV even if they are all 3.7v rated.

 

[wyattc08]

I do believe that 3.7v devices will all hit pretty much the same, it really depends on the Cartos/Attys that you use. But i also do believe that the quality of the batteries and connections will also make a difference.

 

[dormouse]

Of course they all vape the same. Volts are just electricity. What makes them vape differently is what you put on them out of the whole array of SR and LR atomizers and cartomizers that are available (LR for 450mah+ batteries).

However the ergonomics are different. The reliability is different, some have better or more comfortable or better placed switches. Mods have inexpensive industrial batteries inside that can be replaced cheaply but a Vgo or Kgo or Riva for example would need a $15 or so replacement if a battery dies since you cannot remove the battery from the shell it is in. Some are drop dead gorgeous like hand-carved wooden box mods. Some have built-in juice feeders, some have on/off switches, etc.

And yes what above post said is true - the longer the charge of the battery, the longer the 3.7v plateau which is actually a slightly slanted slowly degrading plateau. And for mods, the voltage plateau can be enhanced by using the AW IMR high drain batteries which hold the voltage up better but have less charge.

 

[markfm]

Regulated vs non-regulated does make a difference, if you like consistency.

 

[dormouse]

I believe if it was regulated then it wouldn't be 3.7v. Name me something that is regulated 3.7v (not 3.6, not 3.4 like Ego). Sure you could set a regulated VV to 3.7v, or have a 5v device regulated to 3.7, but I am pretty sure that to have regulated 3.7 you would have to have a device with higher total internal battery voltage than 3.7v.

I assumed the OP was asking about actual native 3.7 devices.

BTW the video guy did not say what brand Ego. Some clone model Egos vendors just called "Ego" may be 3.7v instead of switched 3.4v - I know one vendors was actually selling a Riva and calling it Ego, and some Rivas ARE 3.7v (the latest Eastmall-made Riva 510's, and the Eastmall made Riva 510 SE's are 3.7v).

 

[markfm]

How about an e-power? http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-mods-reviews/174172-e-power-review.html

 

[dormouse]

If you buy an E-power 14650/14500 it's using a 3.7v battery. However, there is some circuitry in the button piece.

I think (not sure) that typically that kind of circuitry on a real 3.7v devices just provides additional protection against overcharge/undercharge, or limits the higher fresh-off-the-charger voltage to 3.9 instead of 4.2 (or possibly dangerous levels if the batteries have been overcharged?)

EDIT - oh just saw your link. You mean regulated to 3.7. No idea. If a 14500 battery drops to 3.6v along its plateau, how does Epower regulate that to 3.7? Regulating is usually either something that reduces the voltage to a particular level OR switches the voltage between two levels (like in Ego between 3.6 and 3.2) to produced a more efficient (chargewise) even average voltage (3.4 in Ego).

I obviously don't know enough about mods to know what EPower is doing but if anyone wants to explain to me how you squeeze more voltage out of a battery than it is making I would be interested. (obviously not counting by adding another booster battery)

 

[markfm]

The reviewer has been around for a while. I may have misread but regulated 3.7 is no big stretch, you are now seeing vv ego and riva with top voltage higher than 3.7, and they aren't stacking batteries.

A basic approach is a boost circuit. See http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boost_converter

The provari goes well above 3.7v, but only has one battery.

The tech side of these things is fascinating, constantly evolving. Tough to keep up with

 

[Nicko]

The device makes a big difference. I proved this to myself only yesterday. I was testing my Indulgence PV with a freshly charged 18650 3.7V battery. Performance was lackluster. I removed the battery, put it in my Silver Bullet and attached the same carto. The difference was incredible. Much, much better.

 

[HeadLikeOrange]

I don't see how we are being lied to, exactly, but I do wonder why some people buy a 3.7V mod for 2, 3, X times the price of a 3.7V Riva. I wonder whether there is a mentality out there that "real vapers use mods".

I can see if you work outside or are otherwise away from a charger for long stretches of time, it might make sense. Or if you are planning to vape for the rest of your life and the long term battery replacement costs are lower for a mod over that timeline. And, of course, higher voltages are another matter altogether. Otherwise, get a couple of $15 Riva batts and cycle them every few hours.

 

[markfm]

Some mods are beautiful works of art. Some are pure mechanical, bullet proof, zero electronics that can fail.

I will often recommend a riva as a starter kit, low price of entry, decent performance. I had multiple kits, both real riva and clones (never had a real ego). I used 808 batteries originally, still keep a couple as throwaways when doing things where they could be lost, or for when I need a small auto pv.

100% of them (the rivas) developed contact issues over relatively short periods of time, where I could count on having to pry up the center post when changing cartos or charging. They were also pretty susceptible to random failures, contacts coming loose, whole battery coming loose and rattling around.

The above issues do not happen with a good mod. My vv pvs really take a beating and keep working. I expect my mods to work, reliably, while I could be certain of a fair fiddle factor plus failures with the generic pvs.

So, I'll keep recommending mass market pv for starters, they are a cheap intro, but appreciate mods.In my case the real win for mods was that I really enjoy vv, running up around 8w with a tank.

 

[tj99959]

If you buy an E-power 14650/14500 it's using a 3.7v battery. However, there is some circuitry in the button piece.

I think (not sure) that typically that kind of circuitry on a real 3.7v devices just provides additional protection against overcharge/undercharge, or limits the higher fresh-off-the-charger voltage to 3.9 instead of 4.2 (or possibly dangerous levels if the batteries have been overcharged?)

EDIT - oh just saw your link. You mean regulated to 3.7. No idea. If a 14500 battery drops to 3.6v along its plateau, how does Epower regulate that to 3.7? Regulating is usually either something that reduces the voltage to a particular level OR switches the voltage between two levels (like in Ego between 3.6 and 3.2) to produced a more efficient (chargewise) even average voltage (3.4 in Ego).

I obviously don't know enough about mods to know what EPower is doing but if anyone wants to explain to me how you squeeze more voltage out of a battery than it is making I would be interested. (obviously not counting by adding another booster battery)

You do know that the new Volcano 3-6v VV only has one 3.7v battery in it. There are several other mods that also do it with just one bat. It's easily done with capacitors. (booster ckt where a capacitor functions as the second battery)

The reason that I have a large 3.7v mod is for the 2400mAh battery, not because it might somehow magically makes 3.7v perform like something it isn't.

 

[dormouse]

Thanks for the power booster info - a circuit that stores power and acts like an extra battery when it discharges.

Have not seen the Volcano 3-6v. Just like Provari, uses 1 3.7v battery doesn't it?

My head was not thinking VV since the thread was about 3.7

 

[nanovapr]

Vaping-wise, volts are volts. How well $my_device maintains that voltage is a whole different discussion.

 

[Freckle]

NO they are not the same!!!!!!!!!!!!

It depends on the batteries and their discharge rate. It also depends on if it is a regulated 3.7.

I can kick my darwin up to give me a wattage that provides me with 3.7volts and vape away and be pretty happy. I can then take a multi meter measure off my little stealth mod that contains an 18650 2600 mah tenergy make sure it hits at 3.7 volts and it is not the same as my darwin.

I can then take my little stealth mod and put it up against 1 of my 8 egos and it is not the same. Actually a ego hits around 3.4volts to 3.5 volts after the first discharge.

I have another box mod that runs on a 14500 battery and it is the same as my egos but different than my stealth mod.

Now if all of my mods (not including darwin) contained the same exact battery then they possibly would hit the same. All back to discharge rate or if it is regulated 3.7volts.

 

[FRANKSTER]

NO they are not the same!!!!!!!!!!!!

It depends on the batteries and their discharge rate. It also depends on if it is a regulated 3.7.

I can kick my darwin up to give me a wattage that provides me with 3.7volts and vape away and be pretty happy. I can then take a multi meter measure off my little stealth mod that contains an 18650 2600 mah tenergy make sure it hits at 3.7 volts and it is not the same as my darwin.

I can then take my little stealth mod and put it up against 1 of my 8 egos and it is not the same. Actually a ego hits around 3.4volts to 3.5 volts after the first discharge.

I have another box mod that runs on a 14500 battery and it is the same as my egos but different than my stealth mod.

Now if all of my mods (not including darwin) contained the same exact battery then they possibly would hit the same. All back to discharge rate or if it is regulated 3.7volts.

I am not sure everyone who made a post here watched that video...I think the reviewer used the same battery on all the mods...I think it was an 18650...2400mah. Therefore, if I am right about this statement...it has to be the same battery on all the mods(not including the ego's and such)

Also, the reviewer only talked about vapor...what about th and flavor...I think that is more important than just the vapor. I want a th and the flavor and I am definitely getting a stronger th on my sb than my k-go with the same juice and same carto.

 

[amarti]

Some mods are beautiful works of art. Some are pure mechanical, bullet proof, zero electronics that can fail.

Exactly.
I have here both Epower mods, they are "cheap" (just 20€), and after one week one PCB is already kaput. That makes you angry. And if you vape in an angry mood, than it tastes different.

If you take then a big, heavy steal tube mod into your hands, you automatically start to smile; it is a kind of "lust" to touch your little heavy baby. Just squeeze the full mechanical switch (button, knop???), and you will agree, that the same 18650 battery tastes "different" in different mods.

Andreas

 

[aziffel]

I saw the video,It was made pre Precise plus,they have rhodium contacts,less resistance=more power to the atty or carto(even if it is just a little)some mods ave a higher resistance than others.I have tried a bunch of different mods( over 30+,spent a bunch of money)to find out a P18650 hits better than a e-power 18650

 

[Stosh]

Vaping-wise, volts are volts. How well $my_device maintains that voltage is a whole different discussion.

Exactly, volts is volts...and amps are amps, and watts are watts....

As vapers we are interested in the wattage = how hot the carto or atty gets and how fast.

A small battery at 3.7v asked to provide 3 amps for a 1.7 ohm carto, cannot produce the
amperage sooooo the voltage sags. (Electronics shop - HS circa 1964 - lesson 1 DC circuits)

A larger battery capable of producing the required amperage, will drop voltage proportionately
accross all the resistances in the circuit --- means the resistance of the atty take some of the
voltage, resistance of the wires takes some, resistance of the switch takes some......etc

The effective wattage any voltage can produce at the connection between the carto and power source is where we vapers are interested.
High drain batteries, different switches, different mods, ifferent designs can vary this greatly.

Judging a power of a mod on the TH or flavor is like saying "how fast can that car go" and answering "the air conditioner pumps out 60 degree air all day"

p.s. clean your connections with iso alc to lower the resistance ....