Are mech clones safe?

[00gt1]

Did a little searching and came up blank so here goes. My buddy and I were discussing this and I wanted to get some feedback because I will be the first to say I have no experience and know all but the basics about mechs. This is NOT being posted to discuss morality or "you get what you pay for". Simply put, are they as safe as the real deal. From what I understand mechs, when treated wrong, can be way more dangerous that regulated mods, even with protected li-ion and "safe chemical" batteries. That being said, I've seen some pretty high end mechs like the M16 and the Nemesis claim to use things like silver, brass, and gold in them to make conduction perfect. While I don't own any clones, I would highly doubt that for a major fraction of the cost (29.99 for a Nemesis from fasttech vs $175 from Atomomixani) you are getting the same build quality. Has anyone run tests on a clone if you own one to test the conductivity vs the real deal? Is the build quality the same for things like the buttons and threads? More importantly, if these things are all sub-par, would you consider them safe to use (yea i know vaping isn't 100% safe anyway, but you get my drift).

Thanks for indulging my late night thinking and on fellow ers

 

[Scarey]

As long as there are no rough edges to tear your battery's wrapper, they have adequate ventilation holes, and the positive is properly isolated from the rest of the mods, they'll be just as safe as any other mech.

 

[Thrasher]

As long as there are no rough edges to tear your battery's wrapper, they have adequate ventilation holes, and the positive is properly isolated from the rest of the mods, they'll be just as safe as any other mech.

+ 1

the thing is with the latest wave of clones they are literally making direct copies of the real deals, silver pins and all, you still have to be careful, in many instances there is more then one company making clones of something and quality is not identical company to company.

 

[Chimney34]

I have several right now. So far i prefer the ones made by hcigar. Well made & pretty striking for the price. I'm going to eventually going to break down and buy one that isn't but I love mines & haven't had any problems.

 

[Papadragon]

I don't have and clones !! But I do know even high end mods have there flaws !!

 

[BardicDruid]

You get what you pay for, I got an EA Clone by EHPro and it's bullet proof, all I did was wipe it down with Isopropyl Alcohol, put a battery in and have been using it for a month. I got mine at a place called Vape Toy for about $60 including shipping. What makes a mech mod dangerous is using cheap batteries in them, that's the last to try to save money, go to RTD Vapor and get good batteries and a good charger. If you're not going to be building sub ohm coils get the protected batteries, the AW and Panasonic are protected against overcharge, over discharge and over current/short circuit.

 

[dam718]

I've used a couple of different mech clones with excellent results. If it's truly mechanical, you really shouldn't have any issues as long as there are no shorts anywhere... There are some devices out there that aren't true mechanicals like the Bolt. It has wires and such going up to the 510 connector. Those wires could be a potential issue in the future if the solder on the 510 lugs were to ever short across the leads. But a true mechanical is a relatively simple device, and as safe as any steel/aluminum bodied flashlight you may have used in the past. Just make sure it's vented well just in case of an unlikely runaway battery event... Once they let the smoke out, it isn't pretty... But with proper venting at least you don't have to worry about it exploding in your hand.

 

[Krizzell]

I have a few just don't build sub ohms unless you know what you're doing.Buy a fuse or kick if you are worried.And use good batteries not cheap ones.

 

[D. Waterhouse]

It all depends on the design. For example the Sigelei #20s switch is literally a hot mess, just a poor design prone to misfiring. But the #24 while not the best set-up either doesn't have anywhere near the problems. Buyer Beware.

 

[00gt1]

So, I've taken the plunge and ordered a Nemesis and an M16 clone. Just waiting for them to ship. I bought a couple efest 18650's to use in them as I use ultrafire protecteds in my other mods and I dont want to chance it with the mechs. I ordered some drippers and some more advances tanks for the mechs too so I'm excited to get into rebuilding . I ordered some 2c fuses to put in the mods too (better safe than sorry). Not sure if I'm quite ready for a kick yet (dont own any 500's yet) but I'm sure I'll get there sooner than later!!

 

[Lando80]

You don't needs 500s to run a kick in that chemesis. Using all 3 tubes and the little kick ring, a650 with a kick will easily fit. It was designed to do so. I own both the mods you've just ordered and I'm very happy with both of them. Speaking of safety, the switch in the m16 can have its problems. The threading on the firing pin will get a bit sloppy with use and start to back itself out. If it backs all the way off the button will pop apart and the mod will have the potential to go into a runaway hard short. Don't worry though, there is a very easy fix. Disassemble the button and put a piece of dental floss along the threads of the female section of the pin before you screw it back together. Problem solved

 

[WattWick]

The thing with mech mods is that you can essentially gauge their safety with a visual inspection. Any chance of it shorting out the battery? Insulator around positive terminal likely to fail and allow contact? Will it auto-fire? Vent holes? Button locking mechanism?

I think it's a per-case issue. Not very much a general clone vs original issue.

 

[00gt1]

Thanks lando, I will def do that!!

 

[Credo]

Personal Preference:
A Kick for all my unregulated mods has saved me tons of grief and given me piece of mind for months now.

1. I feel MUCH safer...particularly on those days when I'm in a hurry and just grab stuff and run.

2. So many atties and coils that would have otherwise gone straight to the trash can, or needed 20 minutes of tinkering, ended up being useful thanks to the Kick. I just twisted a pot a bit and all was well.

3. While the Kick does cut down a bit on 'vape time' per battery charge, It eases my mind to know I'm not going to over drain a battery. I have to physically remove the Kick and knowlingly bypass all the safety to go below 3.2 volts or so (under load). Occasionally I'll do just that if I find myself without a spare battery and need a hit or two...but then I 'know' I'm close to the bottom of the battery and need to be extra careful handling/using the mod. This safety feature also helps insure the batteries will last through many problem free recharges...avoid reverse polarization...etc.

Now the Evolv Kick 2 is out and stocked in several stores. I liked the original Kick so much I had to order one...it's advantages are:
Up to 15w (10 for the orgional kick).
Can go sub-ohm (0.5ish Ohms...say hello to regulated dual coils or custom rba builds), where the first one would only fire atties above 1.5ish ohms.

The signal of the genuine Evolv Kick is solid, clean, and flat...no rattlesnake effect.

My kick 1 paid for itself in just a few short months.

 

[00gt1]

Other than preventing the battery from discharging down below Xv's (which is a major benefit, not downplaying it at all) are there any other benefits of a kick vs a fuse?

 

[vapero]

I think if you know what you are doing and being safe (and inspecting the mod thoroughly) mechs could be safer than electronics. no there are safer mechs and not so safe ones it doesn't matter if they are clones or not

 

[Glenn_K]

I have several right now. So far i prefer the ones made by hcigar. Well made & pretty striking for the price. I'm going to eventually going to break down and buy one that isn't but I love mines & haven't had any problems.

Greetings; Sorry for going off topic, but Chimney, I think you have the best ECF ID I've seen.

When I used to used tobacco, I don't know how many times my family used to tell me, "you smoke like a chimney." I guess they meant you!

Regards
Glenn

 

[Credo]

Other than preventing the battery from discharging down below Xv's (which is a major benefit, not downplaying it at all) are there any other benefits of a kick vs a fuse?

Yes...
It has a little pot on the top which allows you to set the desired output wattage, from 5w to 15w for the Kick 2. 5w - 10w for the Kick 1.

For the most part...you set it for the wattage you like and forget it...then whatever atty you screw on, it will attempt to fire it at that power.

As I understand it, the Kick 2 will allow sub-ohm vaping as well. I think it goes into a kind of by-pass mode when that route is 'more efficient' than signal boosting, and works straight off the battery (but still provides safety).

For atties over 1 Ohm, I find it's DEFINATELY an advantage...it'll help your little 3.7v battery SAFELY act more like a 6v battery!

Case in point...right now I'm vaping a 3 Ohm atty at 15w in a Kamry K100 (too hot for me, I usually like it around 8 watts, but greatly depends on the atty style). Otherwise not possible in this cheap clone mech without a kick, or stacking batteries

Unless there is some reason you demand more than 15 watts...I can think of no reason not to drop one in...even if it's purely for the safety benefits.

Note:
There are also clones out there at around $20, where Evolv Kicks are more like $50.
They have similar specs to the Kick 1 (5 - 12 watts...atties from 1.5 to 3 Ohm).
The clones are worth $20, but they are not NEARLY as nice as the Evolv.
Expect a human detectable signal fluctuation with the clones (rattle snake effect).

For lots of us, the rattle snake thing is no big deal, and 5 to 12 watts is plenty...but if you can afford it...go for the Kick 2

Either way, if ya wanna do mechs but aren't interested in tweaking the perfect custom coils...grab a Kick...

 

[00gt1]

So did some searching and found this $8.33 Variable Wattage Kick Module for Mechanical Mod / PV - range: 5-12 watts at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

yay or nay?

 

[Credo]

So did some searching and found this $8.33 Variable Wattage Kick Module for Mechanical Mod / PV - range: 5-12 watts at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

yay or nay?

They're OK as far as I know.
They'll do from 5 to 12 watts.
They should be OK with atties from 1.5 to 3 Ohms.
They're inexpensive...
Personally, I'd rather have one of those for some extra safety than nothing at all

The difference between that and an Evolv Kick 1, aside price and better quality control, is that the clone is going to have a more noticeable 'pulse' to it. The signal isn't as flat, steady, or fast as that of the Evolv Kick. So...is it worth the asking price? I'd say yeah. Is it as good as a Kick 1? On paper...not even close...in the real world...it depends on how sensitive you are and might vary slightly from unit to unit.

The Evolv Kick 1 will most likely drop in price soon at retail vendors, at least for as long as folks still have them in stock...already starting to see it at many vendors.

The Evolv Kick 2 is much improved over the Kick 1 and the clone you cited.
It can put out 5 extra watts (up to 15).
It can take sub-ohm coils (down to 0.5).
It has improved contacts (little gold plated spring pins).

If you want to use dual coil cartos or other really low Ohm atties with a Kick...then Kick 2 is your only choice that I'm aware of.