Yea..when I calculate the cost of a mod from overseas, I have to include shipping. I bought my EA from vapedudes here in the US but found later that I could have saved $23 if I had bought it directly from electricangel.fi
Atmizoo Roller/Dingo Chat, Tips, and Release Dates
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Yea..when I calculate the cost of a mod from overseas, I have to include shipping. I bought my EA from vapedudes here in the US but found later that I could have saved $23 if I had bought it directly from electricangel.fi
I've noticed that other than my Freight Train Mods e-pipe that I use when I sit on the couch, which kicks ... BTW, I mean the best pipe I've come across yet, I don't use any other VV/VW devices. The FT e-pipe has the dna 12 chip and is VW and is really neat.
I mean I have a Zmax V3 tele, that I used to tool around in the shop with so I woudn't damage any of my nicer mods. But even now, once I picked up a drawtube dirt cheap, that's pretty much my shop vape.
You gotta think that there would be a huge market for more USA made mech mods. Just haven't really seen a domestic mech that floats my boat yet. I LOVE to support domestic made products. In my business, I use nothing but 100% domestically sourced materials.
I mean I have a Zmax V3 tele, that I used to tool around in the shop with so I woudn't damage any of my nicer mods. But even now, once I picked up a drawtube dirt cheap, that's pretty much my shop vape.
You gotta think that there would be a huge market for more USA made mech mods. Just haven't really seen a domestic mech that floats my boat yet. I LOVE to support domestic made products. In my business, I use nothing but 100% domestically sourced materials.
The ice matte finish is pretty durable. I've had mine for over 3 months now and it still looks great. I have a small scratch on the bottom tube, not sure when it happened (maybe when it was in my pocket). The scratch looks so minor, I can't even see it unless I look for it. I've been contemplating on mixing it up too with other parts but like you, after adding everything up, decided it would be better to just buy another roller. I have to wait though because I promised myself I would get the nemesis and a hybrid before any other mod. Lol let's see if I can keep that promise. I got tempted to get a Noble 1 when I got the email that they were in stock again. Looked at it but decided not to. Man, it's sad when you go over your budget for the month. It doesn't help that next month my cellphone contract is up and I want to pick up one of the new S4.
Yeah another Roller (or Dingo and tubes) does make sense especially when you add in the shipping. I'm going to see if they will give me free shipping on some tubes if I buy some though when they send me replacement connectors since they'll be sending them out any way. Can't hurt to ask. I wouldn't be asking if I didn't have an issue on an expensive mod I bought anyway right? Not my fault there is an issue with the connectors.
I saw your post in the Atmizone thread about the day you got your roller and couldn't get your device on it. Did they send you replacement connectors? Did it end up working out?
I saw your post in the Atmizone thread about the day you got your roller and couldn't get your device on it. Did they send you replacement connectors? Did it end up working out?
Yeah, they sent me extra connectors as soon as I mentioned to them my problem free shipping via DHL. My Cobra wouldn't screw on all the way, it would stop or get stuck after a couple turns. I knew the cobra would screw on because I saw other people using a cobra on their rollers. It was threading of the connectors. The ones they sent me worked perfectly. My Cobra would screw on with all my other mods, so I knew it was just the connector. I could fit certain devices on it but the cobra and I read people had the same issue with their AC-9's.
I did eventually got around taking the burrs out of the old connectors I had. I just took a old cartomizer and with the connector wrapped in cloth. Pulled while screwing the cartomizer in and pushed while screwing the cartomizer out. Once I got all the burrs out, I decided to sand down the old recessed connector to make my RBA's sit more flush.
Ah gotcha! I read what you were saying when you posted yesterday and didn't catch the push/pull part when screwing the carto in and out. But I did try taking the connector off and screwing in a carto from both ends of the connector.
Maybe I will try that on the "classic connector" since I don't really plan on using it. See if that works. I still chewed up my recessed connector though cause I had to take a pair of pliers to it to get it off my RSST yesterday. I mean it still works for everything BUT the RSST.
Yep same deal with my RSST, a couple turns and it just dead ends. And my RSST works on everything else I own.
I'll try the push/pull thing now. Thanks.
Maybe I will try that on the "classic connector" since I don't really plan on using it. See if that works. I still chewed up my recessed connector though cause I had to take a pair of pliers to it to get it off my RSST yesterday. I mean it still works for everything BUT the RSST.
Yep same deal with my RSST, a couple turns and it just dead ends. And my RSST works on everything else I own.
I'll try the push/pull thing now. Thanks.
Dude you are genius! I took my classic connector, tried the carto, but it was too easy probably not doing too much in my case. I have like a Smok Vivi clone I never used, that was a tighter fit. Did that a few times. Then decided I would just use the RSST and if it broke, it broke. Boom! Classic connector now accepts my RSST. Gonna try the recessed now. Still want a replacement and I bent the lip over on the recessed, but if I can use my RSST I'm happy. Thanks!
No problem man. The credit goes to all the helpful people in EFC. It was in that Atmizoo thread that gave me that tip. Good thing the connector is made of brass. If it was SS, you'd have to buy a special tool. It's cool too that the 510 connector can be screwed off and replaced fairly cheap.
Yep brother, got the recessed connector working with the RSST now too! Thank you! While I had it off, I screwed a carto into the bottom side of the connector and ran it over some sandpaper real quick. Shaved off a bit for a more flush look and also got rid of most of that lip I had curled over when the connector first got stuck on it and I had to take pliers to it.
Looks like there is a fine line with the connector pin to mess with to get the RSST as flush as possible without it not making a connection.
Definitely an issue with the way my connectors are/were threaded though. Everything wants to go on them crooked it seems.
WOO-HOO! Excuse my excitement. Man! MY fingers hurt though! Laters!
Looks like there is a fine line with the connector pin to mess with to get the RSST as flush as possible without it not making a connection.
Definitely an issue with the way my connectors are/were threaded though. Everything wants to go on them crooked it seems.
WOO-HOO! Excuse my excitement. Man! MY fingers hurt though! Laters!
Sorry. Did I derail the thread from release date to general Dingo/Roller chat? Didn't mean to I swear!
It's been mostly general chat. I may ask for the thread to be renamed.
The scalpers are only fueled by the ......s who pay 60% higher than msrp to own one. So it's the combination of the two ..... parties involved who create this frenzy. If you need a chi you that bad just so you can impress strangers on an Internet forum then you have other issues. The funny thing is that I find the people who own and pay for these inflated devices make videos in ratty living spaces and really shouldn't be spending all their money on mods IMHO. Just my rant 
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taking this switch apart is NOT as easy as the video shows!
To remove the Switch Assembly, you will need to press the axle with your thumb and at the same time push the switch assembly out of the metal housing. This might be easier if you insert the back side of a pencil or pen into the hole of the removed 510 connector and use that to gently push down the switch assembly.
the switch assembly will not come out of the metal housing!
screw it! I gave up and just put it back together. I'm afraid I'm going to mess something up. It won't budge, won't come out of the metal housing. I guess I'm going to have to live with the misfiring.. too expensive to send it back to Greece to get them to take it apart and clean it out.
To remove the Switch Assembly, you will need to press the axle with your thumb and at the same time push the switch assembly out of the metal housing. This might be easier if you insert the back side of a pencil or pen into the hole of the removed 510 connector and use that to gently push down the switch assembly.
the switch assembly will not come out of the metal housing!
screw it! I gave up and just put it back together. I'm afraid I'm going to mess something up. It won't budge, won't come out of the metal housing. I guess I'm going to have to live with the misfiring.. too expensive to send it back to Greece to get them to take it apart and clean it out.
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taking this switch apart is NOT as easy as the video shows!
To remove the Switch Assembly, you will need to press the axle with your thumb and at the same time push the switch assembly out of the metal housing. This might be easier if you insert the back side of a pencil or pen into the hole of the removed 510 connector and use that to gently push down the switch assembly.
the switch assembly will not come out of the metal housing!
screw it! I gave up and just put it back together. I'm afraid I'm going to mess something up. It won't budge, won't come out of the metal housing. I guess I'm going to have to live with the misfiring.. too expensive to send it back to Greece to get them to take it apart and clean it out.
It's important to make sure the button is in the "on" position before disassembly. Have to keep the button part pressed down to slide it out. I just use something with a blunt end and make sure you keep it pressed while using something else to push it out from the top. There is a small ball bearing that is used to lock the button into place. When you let go of the bottom, it will fly out because there is a tiny spring holing it in place. It's best to slide the switch assembly in a bag or slowly relieve pressure on the button so the ball doesn't fly. It was hard the first time I did this. Almost lost the ball bearing. After a couple times it becomes easier. I always do maintenance every 2 weeks. I take it apart and use a strip of ss mesh to rub off any build up. Fires like new every time.
Hmmm.. I had mine in the off postition because mine is the R060 edition. I'll try it on a different position.
Yah! worked like a charm! I turned it to the on position and it slid right out Thanks!!
30 minutes later: All back together. I didn't find any juice at all down in the switch though
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I disassemble my roller often for ultrasonic baths and man, I can't tell you how many of those little steel balls I've lost (they go shooting through the air and I can never find them again lol). Only drawback to me. I wish Atmizoo would sell a huge bag of those lol.
I did make sure I took it out of the housing in a plastic bag and I'm glad I did! I'm still getting quite a bit of misfiring. When I took it apart, it was completely dry in the switch housing. Maybe I didn't put it back together just right, but it was misfiring during the factory install just like it is after I put it together so I'm baffled.
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