Attn: atomizer rebuilders
- Thread starter crazyhorse
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
The solder does indeed seem to recede from the nichrome wire:
But this seems not to be the main reason for atomizer failure; that is deposit buildup.
well a light dimmer switch will not work to weld wires they just pop and blowaway...i guess i have to find a variac to do this, i am pretty sure a variac will weld the wires when the wires are bumped against a carbon rod the wall light dimmer just seems to deliver too much current...i was thinking of a mosfet in inline with a dimmer but i really dont know what i am doing
... and mogurs pcb with a computer programable duty cycle could burn the build up without a burnout of atty...
Been running my atty dry and yellow-amber hot for long periods and it's still going strong. And you can see how clean it became (it was not new, but looks it).
Once the deposit has built up so that the coil is buried, this technique is as likely to finish the atty as clean it. But starting with a new one, it works for me.
Once the deposit has built up so that the coil is buried, this technique is as likely to finish the atty as clean it. But starting with a new one, it works for me.
Kina is that a factory atomizer your testing or one you wound ?
How are the solder joints holding up ?
If it's one you wound, how large is it, physically ?
Hard to tell from the pic.
How are the solder joints holding up ?
If it's one you wound, how large is it, physically ?
Hard to tell from the pic.
Simple atomizer rebuilt could start a step away from Hon Liks original design. Throw out the Nickel mesh, such as been done for the Greencig-type disposable atomizer (the one with the fiber bundles). See some dissection images of the commercial product posted by unterqualm or [post=325385]posted by wegster[/post]). Simplest design, works perfect - and provides an ideal starting point for DIY.
It is similar to my expriment in terms of direct flow.
The key problem remaining is getting the juice out of the cart effectively (fast enough). And IMO the best solution for this is electrical injection (like an inkjet). This has the additional advantage that the juice cannot leak.
Just looking at my photo of the coil and inner wick ... and I'm thinking why not use a fine tube to supply juice straight into the middle of that wick ...
Looks easy when looking at the magnified picture
Looks easy when looking at the magnified picture
Interesting info but how does the use of the fiber bundle for wicking, as opposed to the nickle mesh, improve the life of the coil. (If that's what you're saying).
The failure of the coil is the cause of our atomizer problems.
Anyone interested in electrical injection using piezo-based inkjet like tech or 'bubblejet; tech can take a look at this: HowStuffWorks "How Inkjet Printers Work"
These techs provide a way to inject reliably minute quantities of juice.
These techs provide a way to inject reliably minute quantities of juice.
Hi kinabaloo, could well be that an innovative high-tech solution (electrical injection) would turn out to be a great improvement. Certainly always worth and interesting to explore such new possibilities. The low-tech solution (simple fiber bundle), however, is effective enough to allow for the present commercial products. Provides just a viable path for rebuilding.
500KV, I dont know, but lifetime of the coil in the disposable-type atomizers may not be much worse than lifetime of a conventional atomizer. Ive never had my hands on a disposable and dont remember having read that someone has compared the respective total lifetimes. Nevertheless, users do report many repeated refills of the disposable type without problems. Amazing to me, again, is the overly simple design of the disposables, allowing for RYO from the scratch with just a few readily available materials.
On another note: may be that the average atomizer lifetime could be improved if someone finds a way to eliminate the weakening solder joints which connect heating coil and lead wires. Any suggestions / opinions on the viability of screw joints?
500KV, I dont know, but lifetime of the coil in the disposable-type atomizers may not be much worse than lifetime of a conventional atomizer. Ive never had my hands on a disposable and dont remember having read that someone has compared the respective total lifetimes. Nevertheless, users do report many repeated refills of the disposable type without problems. Amazing to me, again, is the overly simple design of the disposables, allowing for RYO from the scratch with just a few readily available materials.
On another note: may be that the average atomizer lifetime could be improved if someone finds a way to eliminate the weakening solder joints which connect heating coil and lead wires. Any suggestions / opinions on the viability of screw joints?
The weakening solder joints dont seem to come into play circa 2 months life, but would at some point. Unless the leeched tin is causing overgeating by gradually shorting the main part of the coil (as I mused in another thread).
It is one thing to look at enlarged photos and know what to do - quite another to construct something that is 4mm x 1mm !
Though it has been done by one or two here (not me).
What about using pressure of bent wires to hold the leads in holes. the 2 ends of the wire are pushing away from each other because of how they are bent, and the holes are close enough to each other to strain that causing a fairly tight fit. This could lead to replaceable wires pieces that could be changed out causing the overall price to go down.
I know its hard to explain but I am sure someone here will get what I am saying.
Actually, now that I think about it, it would be kinda like the little metal wires that go in xmas balls that hold them on a tree. the shape they are in causes them to want to expand, but the size of the whole causes them to instead put pressure on the endges causing a fairly nice lock.
I know its hard to explain but I am sure someone here will get what I am saying.
Actually, now that I think about it, it would be kinda like the little metal wires that go in xmas balls that hold them on a tree. the shape they are in causes them to want to expand, but the size of the whole causes them to instead put pressure on the endges causing a fairly nice lock.
A neat idea, really
But I doubt replaceable coils will ever come about as one would need to get inside the atty first.
ps: just realised that i don't know what you mean; I was thinking of xmas fairy lightbulbs that have bare wire ends bent back around a poyethylene plug. I guess something similar
Last edited:
I know what you're saying.
If it weren't for that silly bridge over the coil in the way, the holes in the juice cup could be made conductive like a socket and a newly wrapped coil could be plugged in like a tiny electrical plug.
What about that Kinabaloo? I just got finished downloading your video which indicates we really don't need that silly bridge in the way anyway.
If it weren't for that silly bridge over the coil in the way, the holes in the juice cup could be made conductive like a socket and a newly wrapped coil could be plugged in like a tiny electrical plug.
What about that Kinabaloo? I just got finished downloading your video which indicates we really don't need that silly bridge in the way anyway.
Need the bridge i=to connect with traditional carts. But is redesign the whole shebang ....
even without a brisge in the way would be tricky to fit a new coil, unless the innards could be easily slid out or something. Worth thinking about. Or the connector unscrewed and touched internal contacts (so dont get twisted wires)
With a 801, it takes about two seconds to pop the guts out all in one piece and two seconds to shove it all back in. If the bridge could be modified to be removable, the coil would be wide open and dirt simple to work on.
I realized my description might be hard to understand and this image will probably be just as hard, but bear with me.
The left side would be the "wire" before it is squeezed together to fit in the holes, the right side would be it squeezed and tightly fitted into the 2 holes, with have wires attached through the bottom of the "cups" somehow. Keep in mind, I have no art background and did this in a paint program....
Click for larger image....
The left side would be the "wire" before it is squeezed together to fit in the holes, the right side would be it squeezed and tightly fitted into the 2 holes, with have wires attached through the bottom of the "cups" somehow. Keep in mind, I have no art background and did this in a paint program....
Click for larger image....
Relative to the 801 which is the only hardware I know, here's a thought to plug into your well-tuned e-cig analysis apparatus for consideration.
If the bridge was removed and replaced with a large bore, heat resistant, insulating grommet of thin section, we could insert a wafer or a wad of metal foam into the end of the cartridge. The cartridge wall and the grommet would insulate the metal foam from the cig body and slightly isolate it from direct contact with the coil. The metal foam would keep the cartridge filler away from the coil while putting the juice supply in immediate proximity to the coil itself. Getting rid of the bridge would open up easy access for a plug-and-play coil replacement.
It would also get rid of that pesky problem of the peaked bridge pushing the filler up into the cartridge and negate ongoing paper clip therapy needed to fluff the stuffing back down to the level of the bottom of the cartridge. A vented cartridge would be quickly and easily refilled by syringe.
Crazyhorse---you can get the bridge out with a pair of long thin tweezers without even taking the atomizer apart--it prys right up and out on the 801. --------Sun
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
