Atty screws loosening

[Robinowitz]

Hi all,

Through the years I have noticed that the screws on my IGO-S and RM3 ocassionally loosen up after firing thus increasing resistance. I've not had trouble on my RM2 though. There were a few times in the past that they cut the wire, so I removed them and checked them for rough edges and sanded them gently with a nail file. (I actually didn't see any problem but figured it was my eyes, so I sanded for good measure). Since then no cut wires but the loosening is a concern (ocassional PIA when out and about).

Does anyone have a cure? Do the finger-tightening screws work better?

Thank you. In the big scheme, this is a pretty "gold plated problem."

 

[CATastrophe]

I don't know a fix. I have two rogue clones that I use daily and on one the center post screw is finicky. It loosens by itself at times and the other never does. If someone knows a fix, that would be nice. For the record, I'm not a dual coil user.

 

[stevegmu]

Screw them down a little tighter...

 

[Robinowitz]

Screw them down a little tighter...

I do screw them down quite a bit. Any more and I will strip the screw head. Thanks though.

 

[Robinowitz]

I don't know a fix. I have two rogue clones that I use daily and on one the center post screw is finicky. It loosens by itself at times and the other never does. If someone knows a fix, that would be nice. For the record, I'm not a dual coil user.

Exactly and ditto all the way around. I figured I wasn't the only one.

 

[Jimi D.]

Get some hex grub screws. They don't back out. Fat Daddy vapes sells a nice set. M1's fit .9 mm, M2's fit 1.3 mm, and M3's fit 1.5 mm hex keys. Easy fix.

 

[redeyedancer]

Run the atty for the day the very next morning snug them up this should solve all your problems

 

[Rule62]

It's pretty common. Once the coil has been heated up and cooled a few times, the screws need to be rechecked. Often times, they need to be snugged up a bit more.

 

[Robinowitz]

Get some hex grub screws. They don't back out. Fat Daddy vapes sells a nice set. M1's fit .9 mm, M2's fit 1.3 mm, and M3's fit 1.5 mm hex keys. Easy fix.

AWWW...FT, I remember him from my old KFL days. I like the idea of the knurled ones for ease. I know it's mentioned somewhere about the size of the screws in the RM3 and IGO-S. If someone has that handy, let me know.

Thank you Rule and Rob also. Guess I'm just looking for a more permanent fix. I think it must be possible because some of my screws never loosen (even on the same atty that has one that does loosen). Or I'm in denial and have too much time on my hands this afternoon

 

[SteamStack]

Yup.. I always known to check my screws after a few hours as most of n the time they will be loose after installing a new coil. After that not so much of a problem but if I notice a weak hit I'll check the screws but usually there good and I just need a batt change.

 

[Robinowitz]

Yup.. I always known to check my screws after a few hours as most of n the time they will be loose after installing a new coil. After that not so much of a problem but if I notice a weak hit I'll check the screws but usually there good and I just need a batt change.

That's why I was thinking about the knurled screws. Easier to tighten when out and about.

 

[SteamStack]

They also make a tiny Keychain screw driver. I have it just for that reason. Never used it though.. but I'm sure will be happy if I do.

Bought it at some vape shop online.. can't remember now.. years ago.

 

[Rule62]

A bit of practical metallurgy: The screws don't actually loosen. The wire shrinks.
When metal is heated, it expands. When it cools, it contracts to a size slightly less than the original dimension.

 

[Robinowitz]

A bit of practical metallurgy: The screws don't actually loosen. The wire shrinks.
When metal is heated, it expands. When it cools, it contracts to a size slightly less than the original dimension.

Interesting and thank you! So now we just need to find some non-shrinking wire. Perhaps in Rob's spare time, he can look into it..tee hee

 

[Robinowitz]

Just ordered some knurled M2 screws. THEN I read a past post about someone causing a short in their RM3 with one Any experiences with using knurled with RM2 or IgoS.

I know that I can re-check build once the cap is put on, just to make sure....

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

Just ordered some knurled M2 screws. THEN I read a past post about someone causing a short in their RM3 with one Any experiences with using knurled with RM2 or IgoS.

I know that I can re-check build once the cap is put on, just to make sure....

The RM3 is pretty tiny inside the chamber. Most likely the short was caused by screw heads touching (this was also a danger in the first run of RM4's before Rob corrected the issue).

The RM2 posts are quite far apart and this shouldn't happen, if it was the heads touching. The IGO-S might be another story. I don't have mine handy at the moment or I'd check for post distance.

BTW, I'm always checking post screws in the first week with a newly built coil. I find loosening has more to do with the build than the atty - gauge, duals, and exotic wire (e.g. tiger) all put different variables into play.

ETA: Oh, and it might be the knurled heads (which are larger so you can use your fingers) might have contacted either the cap or a metal DT. The cap issue (if there is one), you'll have to live with. DT's can be compensated for - try delrin or one with a shorter mount (they're not standardized) if it's an issue.

 

[Robinowitz]

The RM3 is pretty tiny inside the chamber. Most likely the short was caused by screw heads touching (this was also a danger in the first run of RM4's before Rob corrected the issue).

The RM2 posts are quite far apart and this shouldn't happen, if it was the heads touching. The IGO-S might be another story. I don't have mine handy at the moment or I'd check for post distance.

BTW, I'm always checking post screws in the first week with a newly built coil. I find loosening has more to do with the build than the atty - gauge, duals, and exotic wire (e.g. tiger) all put different variables into play.

ETA: Oh, and it might be the knurled heads (which are larger so you can use your fingers) might have contacted either the cap or a metal DT. The cap issue (if there is one), you'll have to live with. DT's can be compensated for - try delrin or one with a shorter mount (they're not standardized) if it's an issue.

Thank you Papa for your kind and thorough explanation. I haven't received my knurled ones yet but I think the person who was describing a short in an older thread thought it had to do with the small chamber hitting the knurled part of the screw. When I get the new screws, I will try them with caution (metering times 2) and report back.

Thanks all. Like I said earlier, this is really a gold-plated problem when compared with all the pluses of having a Reo!