AVS and Shock?

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superfrog

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Ok this was a bit wierd, but I think it's important enough to at least ask the GG pros over here.

First my rig: GGts #787, Nickle AVS (from AFSv3), Magma 510 atty (2.5 ohm), Nickle Plate Mouth piece, CR123 LI-ION x2 for 6v. Everything's in working order and clean (no Noalox, just got that in).

Ok, here's the issue. I'm sitting here vaping minding my own business, as I take a pull - ZAP. Not like you're sticking a knife in a wall socket, but like you're licking a 9v transistor battery. Nothing wrong with that, used to lick 9v's when I was a... *twitch* ... a kid to see if they ... *twitch* ... still worked, and I'm ok now. *twitch, blink, drool*

But seriously, can anyone try to explain that? I've been vaping at 6v's with my Magma atty, never noticed it before. I can think of any number of reasons, but I just want to see if anyone else has noticed that before. I mean it very well could be the dryer weather, moist skin, alligned moon, or this damned cast on my leg (currently blaming that thing for everything).

Just wondering.
 

superfrog

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That's what makes it just wierd. GGTS works fine, and the atty checks out. I know you have trons on the casing when you press the switch as the negative return from the atty. Simple electonics. Even the batteries are new and check out... vaping on it right now (with delrin mp though).

I really think it's environmental (maybe static), but very odd. I was more wondering if anyone else had noticed the same thing. Hell, might just be me and the meds I'm on, making the dehydrated body acting like a capacitor, discharging into the neg battery pole.

Rest assured Imeo, there is absolutly nothing wrong with your design at all. Although electrically simple, very solid design.

that happens when battery has a problem or when atty is shorted frog my friend. When you feel that with a metal mouthpiece you know that GGTS doesnt work.
 

Para

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Nothing wrong with that, used to lick 9v's when I was a... *twitch* ... a kid to see if they ... *twitch* ... still worked, and I'm ok now. *twitch, blink, drool*

I am still laughing out loud at that....mainly because I did the same thing as a kid. Kinda like the Triple Dog Dare

Hope you get the problem solved....or I can send you a pack of 9v's if that helps
 

Lightgeoduck

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Did you put the batteries in backwards?

I guess I should elaborate a bit more. if you put the batteries in backwards that would make the center pin negative and the outer connection (plus entire tube) the positive end. making the outer part of the device "hot" and when you try to vape you (your body) becomes ground and completes the circuit. Though this isn't enough to fibrillate anyone it is enough for you lips to get the tingling sensation.

this is just a guess and most likely could happen intermediately or I could be wrong, but I doubt it is static since you are already holding the device "grounding" it so there is no way for that to happen.

LGD
 

superfrog

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Ok, so this does make sense, if anyone's following. The batteries were at the 'right' polarity, with the negative at the spring. Had to think about this for a bit and put 20 years of working on Sonars in mind to figure out.

Ok, hear me though. For these types of mods, battery polarity really doesn't matter. The atty doesn't care which side is hot, and which side is return (tried this with the SLIM, and fires either way. Now, if the body picks up a static charge, normally it is instantly shunted to earth ground when you touch something metal. Now, with the air being dry, it's easy to pick up a charge. So in absence of an earth ground, that charge needs to go somewhere.

With the batteries in the GGTS in the recommended polarity, the negative pole is sitting on the backside of the switch. So, when the switch is closed, now I have an electrical ground. Now because of the batteries limited current capacity, there isn't an instantanious discharge, there is a more gradual discharge. So if that's the case, if I reverse the battery poles with the negative pole on the atty base, given the same environment I would have a discharge through the atty without the switch.

Odd, and not a normal situation, so anyone following, there's no safety issue here. Just circumstances were just right. This would probably happen to any mechanical mod given the same environment. Wondering if anyone has ever had this happen with any other mod. Hmm, might post this over in general vaping to see.

Thanks all.
 

Stonemull

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no offence intended, but thanks for the giggle .. thats all just so wrong it is funny :)

static no way .. you are a conductor of electricity, your mouth and hand are at the same potential, you cannot shock your own body with a static discharge from your finger, electrically impossible.

batterys not coping with current is also a giggle since they are designed entirely to do just that .. internal resistance is in mΩ, tens of amps would only produce a partial volt. besides .. static is a moot point. battery polarity even less so.

The atty connector is heavily grounded and so is your hand (regardless of battery direction, its still grounded to your body) .. the atty centre and the heater to a varying degree, is 'live' .. +ve or -ve depending on batt direction.
So to get a shock you need the outer of the atty to be anything but ground .. but since the atty connector is grounded .. the case is press fit on and must be insulated on that atty. I know ego B attys have a silicon tube between atty and case, so either that or paint or oxide layer is insulating.

The juice is conductive enough that it is conducting part of the 'live' from the heater to the outer case of the atomiser.

anything over a mA is detectable on skin, requires around 100v in dry air .. in the mouth, mV are sufficient to be detectable and a few volts can be painful. In the right conditions 12v to the mouth can be fatal. They electrocute minks with a 12v car battery to not damage the hide .. one probe in mouth and the other in the other end..
 

RippleInStillWater

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no offence intended, but thanks for the giggle .. thats all just so wrong it is funny :)

EDITED
anything over a mA is detectable on skin, requires around 100v in dry air .. in the mouth, mV are sufficient to be detectable and a few volts can be painful. In the right conditions 12v to the mouth can be fatal. They electrocute minks with a 12v car battery to not damage the hide .. one probe in mouth and the other in the other end..


Well, I had been curious, now I know how to harvest the weasel family!!!!:lol::lol::lol::lol:
 
I know it's been almost a year since a reply, but I experienced the same thing on my GGTS with a UFS v2, this month. All would be good, then all of a sudden, I get a light shock to my lips when I press the button and the atty would not fire. This happened to me twice, and each time, I just loosened the telescope (which eases the pressure on the batteries) and it started working again (without shock).

My conclusion of the "Shocking GGTS" phenomenon: The O-Ring between the center pin and the collector cup was squeezed too far causing the center pin to make contact with the collector cup. The center pin in positively charged and the collector cup is negatively charged. Therefore, the short circuit is complete when the button is pressed. This in-turn will deliver "Shocking" results.

-Rich
 

egeus

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I know it's been almost a year since a reply, but I experienced the same thing on my GGTS with a UFS v2, this month. All would be good, then all of a sudden, I get a light shock to my lips when I press the button and the atty would not fire. This happened to me twice, and each time, I just loosened the telescope (which eases the pressure on the batteries) and it started working again (without shock).

My conclusion of the "Shocking GGTS" phenomenon: The O-Ring between the center pin and the collector cup was squeezed too far causing the center pin to make contact with the collector cup. The center pin in positively charged and the collector cup is negatively charged. Therefore, the short circuit is complete when the button is pressed. This in-turn will deliver "Shocking" results.

-Rich

I'm having this issue... (add another 6 months to that year ^_^)

Using the GGTS, no tank, just a 901 atty with a stainless tip. Disassembled and wiped all excess juice off, used running water to clean the collector cup and the center pin assembly, switched out the atty and batteries, loosened the telescope, still :shock: shocking.

I'm perplexed. If I figure something out I'll post back. Rich, have you had any recurrences? Anyone else? I guess the next thing to do is totally disassemble the unit, soak in water with maybe some mild soap, dry fully and reassemble.

One thing I notice is a few hard pulls will alleviate the problem, but only very temporarily. I thought maybe the juice in the atty was causing a short and so the hard pulls pushed the offending juice out of the way, but after switching the atty i guess that's out.
 
after further investigation on my part, as i continued to have the problem, I retract my conclusion.

The center pin on a UFS is shielded by a hollow plastic screw in the bottom of the collector cup. I did, however, discover that since the center pin is not supported on the top end, it was slipping off the center connector of the atomizer and making contact with its outer ring while keeping contact with the center, causing a short.

I corrected the issue by adding an o-ring to the top of the center pin to keep it stable. I have had no further issues since.
 

Stonemull

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if the atty outer is not electrically connected fully to the GG case, then it will rise to a partial positive potential, it does not even need to be a full insulator either, if you had a 2ohm atty and a 1ohm resistance in the ground circuit, 6v worth of battety would put 2v on the outer of the atty.
that is likely detectable in the mouth,.
if the atty thread was somehow not making contact with the tank at all, then the atty outer will be at full battery volts.
so check and clean all the threads would be my advice .. it could be any of them, telescope, tank or atty, they all need to conduct.
sticking a multimeter lead on the bottom of the battery tube and measuring elsewhere on the tube for voltage will show which threads are causing it and what volts.
 
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