Ba Gua firing problems
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My mag/washer assembly cured and I dropped it in the switch upper about three hours ago.
It works, and nicely I might add.
The action is smooth, wobble greatly reduced if not completely eliminated.
Been super busy and it's been humid here the last couple of days so it took a bit longer to get one made up and fully cured. I've only ran two 14500's on the switch but I will say with only a slight reservation, I'm happy. Baring any weirdness, Im done messing with it, time to vape!
I never imagined anybody would follow this thread but as this is a public forum I would like to take some time to say that I've modded my switch assy for primarily three reasons:
-I am neurotic in both my engineering mindset and my vape collection/over spending. I simply could not bring myself to order just the soft switch, for fear of owning an additional one or two Bagua's plus Arrow(s).
-I feel like this is not a 'fix' for the switch; I think YellowKiss has already addressed that with the brass cup. I am sure that if one was included in the trade I made, I would not have bothered. Simply a mod(ification).
-I've dumped time, money, and effort into this only out of love for the mod. Trust and believe, I consider the Bagua to be a beautiful piece; If I was not impressed I would have traded or sold it.
@ aalwani, I apologize, kinda hijacked the thread. After running a stock mag in the switch upper for the last couple days, I only could get it to misfire or V drop by intentionally pushing the button straight in. I get zero V drop across the mod unloaded w/ or w/o my mag/washer; I would be interested to get an inline 510 meter for S and G's. In your OP you were experiencing a loaded V drop to ~2.8V, could it be a function of coil resistance? AW 14500's have a max continuous discharge rate of 4A. Possibly a combo of that plus oxidized contacts? I just cleaned mine (Pro-Grade) and noticed it hitting harder. Willing to help you out man.
And finally, I have seen some comments regarding capacitance; maybe not on this form, but to the effect of "horrible battery life". I feel like this is unnecessary and possibly from uniformed vapers. This is a 14500 mod after all, no surprise.
Guys- Everything on the mag/washer assy is pretty much laid out in the thread but feel free to PM me or post.
What's up Zencoder. Name any affiliation to the SF based company??
Yeah I'm dripping into a TF SS Hornet right now, love it. But damnn, HOLY Diver, looks sexy as hell.
What's the Grail, is it a drip shield to cover the juice intake?
Must have them....
It works, and nicely I might add.
The action is smooth, wobble greatly reduced if not completely eliminated.
Been super busy and it's been humid here the last couple of days so it took a bit longer to get one made up and fully cured. I've only ran two 14500's on the switch but I will say with only a slight reservation, I'm happy. Baring any weirdness, Im done messing with it, time to vape!
I never imagined anybody would follow this thread but as this is a public forum I would like to take some time to say that I've modded my switch assy for primarily three reasons:
-I am neurotic in both my engineering mindset and my vape collection/over spending. I simply could not bring myself to order just the soft switch, for fear of owning an additional one or two Bagua's plus Arrow(s).
-I feel like this is not a 'fix' for the switch; I think YellowKiss has already addressed that with the brass cup. I am sure that if one was included in the trade I made, I would not have bothered. Simply a mod(ification).
-I've dumped time, money, and effort into this only out of love for the mod. Trust and believe, I consider the Bagua to be a beautiful piece; If I was not impressed I would have traded or sold it.
@ aalwani, I apologize, kinda hijacked the thread. After running a stock mag in the switch upper for the last couple days, I only could get it to misfire or V drop by intentionally pushing the button straight in. I get zero V drop across the mod unloaded w/ or w/o my mag/washer; I would be interested to get an inline 510 meter for S and G's. In your OP you were experiencing a loaded V drop to ~2.8V, could it be a function of coil resistance? AW 14500's have a max continuous discharge rate of 4A. Possibly a combo of that plus oxidized contacts? I just cleaned mine (Pro-Grade) and noticed it hitting harder. Willing to help you out man.
And finally, I have seen some comments regarding capacitance; maybe not on this form, but to the effect of "horrible battery life". I feel like this is unnecessary and possibly from uniformed vapers. This is a 14500 mod after all, no surprise.
Guys- Everything on the mag/washer assy is pretty much laid out in the thread but feel free to PM me or post.
Once you do suss out your firing issues, I've got to say, the Diver/Grail combo makes for a great little dripper that could combo on the Ba Gaus.
What's up Zencoder. Name any affiliation to the SF based company??
Yeah I'm dripping into a TF SS Hornet right now, love it. But damnn, HOLY Diver, looks sexy as hell.
What's the Grail, is it a drip shield to cover the juice intake?
Must have them....
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Matty thanks for the writeup. Well no problem in highjacking the thread I would be interested to know everything you have done to your bagua.
My problem actually is still there. Although the brass cup should be good enough as you said, it introduces a lot of wobble. The more the wobble the more the space there is between the axis and the surrounding, which means more chance of high drops in voltage. I am not sure what you did with the magnet but if you can post some pics that would be great. I think if we have a better spring more coductive maybe a brass thick one it would solve the problem. But I fail to know how to look for such springs.
My problem actually is still there. Although the brass cup should be good enough as you said, it introduces a lot of wobble. The more the wobble the more the space there is between the axis and the surrounding, which means more chance of high drops in voltage. I am not sure what you did with the magnet but if you can post some pics that would be great. I think if we have a better spring more coductive maybe a brass thick one it would solve the problem. But I fail to know how to look for such springs.
The brass cup should bottom out in the switch upper assy, otherwise I can see where it would be a pain. I mean, I don't have a brass cup so, I'm guessing here, again; but it seems to me that that is the way the switch is suppose to make contact. Through the cup rather than through the spring or button stem.
I wonder how much shipping would be from the US to Greece, like snail mail status.. Post card or letter.
I believe the magnet is weak enough that if it was sandwiched between a couple pieces of cardboard it wouldn't get hung up in the mail.
I have 19 of these washer left and 7 mags. It would be interesting to send you a washer and mag/washer to see if either one of them will solve it.
what do you think?
and Google says.....
1.30 USD
But it will take ~ two weeks.
aalwani, PM me. Lets get one of these out to yah brotha
1.30 USD
But it will take ~ two weeks.
aalwani, PM me. Lets get one of these out to yah brotha
Got the spring kit. It's crap. 1 spring is too loose and wobbly. Two springs together doesn't allow the button to compress all the way. The cup doesn't improve conductivity. I don't know why they didn't use brass or copper springs. Would have helped. Just as many misfires using the spring(s) and no improved vertical stability. The measurements are just plain off with respect to the pin and the hole. The best I've been able to do is place a brass washer under the switch head and replace one of the magnets with a slightly weaker one. It fires from all angles but that's because I reduced the throw to less than 1mm.
Wow, I stand corrected! I gave YellowKiss the benefit of the doubt, thinking second shot... would have nailed it. I'm so glad I didn't order that brass cup. How frustrating for everyone.
Dims are pretty off in the switch. Actuals I'm pulling, Button post/stem: 5.14mm dia, respective button hole: 5.41mm dia. That's loose like,
well um, that's really loose.Xfoo, great minds think alike. That more or less what I did as well. It's all about finding the right washer with an ID that more closely matches the button post/stem and OD that will drop into mag recesses.
What size washers did you use?
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Wow, I stand corrected! I gave YellowKiss the benefit of the doubt, thinking second shot... would have nailed it. I'm so glad I didn't order that brass cup. How frustrating for everyone.
Dims are pretty off in the switch. Actuals I'm pulling, Button post/stem: 5.14mm dia, respective button hole: 5.41mm dia. That's loose like,
Xfoo, great minds think alike. That more or less what I did as well. It's all about finding the right washer with an ID that more closely matches the button post/stem and OD that will drop into mag recesses.
What size washers did you use?
I took out the white insulating washer that seems like its made from ceramic and replaced it with an even thinner Mylar insulating washer. That is held in place by the Nylon ring that the battery sits on. Then I added a #4 brass washer to fit under the firing pin. I had to open the ID hole of the brass washer so it accepts the switch post. I did that by spinning the washer around a bit of fine sandpaper until the dia was correct. OD doesn't matter as the brass washer is only used to shorten the throw. It doesn't improve connectivity. I replaced only the lower magnet with 2 magnets I used to convert the Chi You switch. The upper magnet I left stock. This is the best setup I have done without going into "modder" mode.
I'll try. I'm in the middle of a move so it's a bit hectic.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Made up a second mag/washer on Friday, thought I'd post some pics if anyone was wondering.
mag/washer (top view)
mag/washer in switch upper
stock mag in switch lower
mag/wahser (No. 1) assembled (w/o switch upper)
mag/washer (top view)
mag/washer in switch upper
stock mag in switch lower
mag/wahser (No. 1) assembled (w/o switch upper)
Certainly not as involved as Matty's, but I like to choose my battles.
(2x) 3/8"OD x 1/4"ID x 1mm magnets installed in bottom position. The ID doesn't matter because they are not part of the circuit and are held centered by the opposing magnetism when the housing is together.
Upper magnet is installed stock
this is a Mylar washer. It is thinner than the ceramic one that comes stock. It allows the thickness of the following brass washer
#4 brass washer with the center bored to fit around the firing post. The sum thickness of this and the Mylar leaves a short enough throw so the mod fired from every angle. Since the brass hugs the post a bit, it does seem to improve on misfires too
Fully assembled switch. The mod stands without self-firing. The throw is softer than stock, yet still firm enough to keep it from wobbling when standing
Hey, I was drinken tallboys when I made up aalwani's, and it came out better than the first
And I used all off the shelf parts..
Hahah, nah I kid tho.
I was too scared to take out the switch insulator.
Looks like it turned out .....en
I have the same problem except mines sometimes gets extremely hot when I fire it.
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