Bad GG Week For Me

[smitty727]

I have a new GGTB, a used 2011 GGTS, a new SS GGTS, a used UFS and 2 Iatty's ordered from COV that hopefully will be here in the next week or so and I love em all - even though the button on the 2011 GGTS is defective. Something seems to have happened to the spring inside. My main vape lately has been the SS GGTS/UFS. Don't get any better IMHO. Bad week though. Last weekend I was cleaning the SS GGTS and somehow managed to completely pull out the center pin. Tried to stick it back in and lo and behold I pushed 2 tiny O rings out thru the atty connection. Oh sh**, but no big deal I thought since I mostly use the UFS anyhow. So later I'm cleaning the UFS and manage to do the same damn thing with the UFS - pull the center pin completely out. Oh sh** again but I put the center pin back in and although it just hangs down loosely it seems to work OK. Then this morning I add juice to the tank and start to take a hit and the button is so hot it actually burned my finger. I unscrew the telescope to break the connection and remove the button after it cools down a bit. Something evidently went wrong with the button spring on the SS GGTS and I was getting a constant connection even when I wasn't pushing the button??? It got so hot that the spring in the brass bottom cap is all distorted so I guess I'll need a new bottom cap also. I don't understand. Believe me I don't abuse these things at all. They're treated with TLC. I have no idea how I managed to pull the center pin out of both the UFS & the SS GGTS. All I was doing was wiping off the excess juice and these are heavy duty machines that shouldn't break so easily??? Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone else had these problems or is it just me? Anyhow in less than a week I've gone from having more GG's than I can use to now I only have 1 that's operational, the GGTB. Hope Bruce has some parts in stock cause I'm gonna need them. Hope the Iatty's get here soon since I should be able to use them on the GGTB. Fortunately I did save my Provari and a map tank as a backup so at least I ain't sitting here with nothing but it just ain't the same. The GGTS/UFS has spoiled me and I ain't a happy camper right now.
Smitty

 

[jinoo]

Did you properly put those small o-rings back into the place? If not I'm guessing maybe your juice leaked and eventually ran down to touch the battery. This is maybe one of the reasons why this happened. I hope you figure out the problem. I'm sure GG family here will help you.

 

[jinoo]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/191723-how-replace-centre-pin-o-rings-ss-ggts-3.html

You should not force the centre pin in if you pull it out. Here is the link with useful information. Lee has done an excellent job illustrating how to put those small o-rings back into the place. I hope this helps.

 

[smitty727]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/191723-how-replace-centre-pin-o-rings-ss-ggts-3.html

You should not force the centre pin in if you pull it out. Here is the link with useful information. Lee has done an excellent job illustrating how to put those small o-rings back into the place. I hope this helps.

Thanks for the info jinoo!

 

[atavanhalen]

I have a new GGTB, a used 2011 GGTS, a new SS GGTS, a used UFS and 2 Iatty's ordered from COV that hopefully will be here in the next week or so and I love em all - even though the button on the 2011 GGTS is defective. Something seems to have happened to the spring inside. My main vape lately has been the SS GGTS/UFS. Don't get any better IMHO. Bad week though. Last weekend I was cleaning the SS GGTS and somehow managed to completely pull out the center pin. Tried to stick it back in and lo and behold I pushed 2 tiny O rings out thru the atty connection. Oh sh**, but no big deal I thought since I mostly use the UFS anyhow. So later I'm cleaning the UFS and manage to do the same damn thing with the UFS - pull the center pin completely out. Oh sh** again but I put the center pin back in and although it just hangs down loosely it seems to work OK. Then this morning I add juice to the tank and start to take a hit and the button is so hot it actually burned my finger. I unscrew the telescope to break the connection and remove the button after it cools down a bit. Something evidently went wrong with the button spring on the SS GGTS and I was getting a constant connection even when I wasn't pushing the button??? It got so hot that the spring in the brass bottom cap is all distorted so I guess I'll need a new bottom cap also. I don't understand. Believe me I don't abuse these things at all. They're treated with TLC. I have no idea how I managed to pull the center pin out of both the UFS & the SS GGTS. All I was doing was wiping off the excess juice and these are heavy duty machines that shouldn't break so easily??? Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone else had these problems or is it just me? Anyhow in less than a week I've gone from having more GG's than I can use to now I only have 1 that's operational, the GGTB. Hope Bruce has some parts in stock cause I'm gonna need them. Hope the Iatty's get here soon since I should be able to use them on the GGTB. Fortunately I did save my Provari and a map tank as a backup so at least I ain't sitting here with nothing but it just ain't the same. The GGTS/UFS has spoiled me and I ain't a happy camper right now.
Smitty

I have not taken apart a gg connector since having an aluminum ggts last year so I could be completely wrong about this but I believe those orings help keep the center positive pin from touching the body/ground/negative so maybe your center pin is touching the body and causing a short which will cause your batteries to get very very hot very quickly and the heat transfers very quickly through the button. I had an atty that was overtightened and the center pin was touching the negative and it caused the same thing to happen, it got so hot so quickly that I had a visible burn on my finger. Question, does your switch still return when you press it? If it does then I think you are getting a short and not a problem with the switch. I am sure you already know about attys that have a pressed in center post but just in case take a look at the atty you were using and if there is no rubber ring between the center post and outer threads then that is your problem, actually the ring may still be there but its starting to come out. If it makes you feel any better I actually did the same thing last year but I was actually trying to pull the post out and then shoved it back in and broke the small orings. I would start with the suggestion that jinoo made and take the connector apart to see what things look like. Good luck

 

[atavanhalen]

I just looked at the pics for replacing the orings and it looks like the orings do not keep the post from the negative so maybe it was juice leaking through and causing a short but I am sure there are much more qulaified peops for helping, maybe send paralexx a pm. Either way though it really sounds like a short in the connector area rather than a switch problem but I have known to be wrong.

 

[lee72]

The centre post plastic stop should stop the centre pin touching any negative parts. The o rings keep the pin in position and help stop any juice flowing down.

 

[silentt]

I had the button get hot like that before, the atty shorted and I changed it.. problem solved.

 

[smitty727]

I am sure you already know about attys that have a pressed in center post but just in case take a look at the atty you were using and if there is no rubber ring between the center post and outer threads then that is your problem, actually the ring may still be there but its starting to come out.

You may have hit on something there ata. I remember seeing a couple of days ago that the rubber ring on the bottom of the atty I was using was beginning to bulge out a bit. I just took a small screwdriver and poked it back in, not thinking it could cause a problem down the road. Is there any way to repair the button/switch or do they just have to be replaced? Thanks!

 

[Moshmarr]

That's exactly what happened to me recently, a shorted atty did in my bottom cap spring on my ggtb. Button quite hot. Same atty symptoms, too. Luckily I had a few spare springs around. Replaced the spring, tossed the atty and put in a new one, and all is well. With your button and bottom cap, same thing, at worst you should only have to replace the springs.
The ssggts button can be taken apart with 2 sockets if necessary, but if it's still working normally when pressed, i agree it's probably an atty short

 

[blackwater]

I took mine out today to inspect. I found only one small o-ring on the top side of the post. A weird thing is I found a slightly bigger o ring in between the post and the hexagonal screw. Is this bizarre or what? Was this someones fix for losing one of the 2 small o rings?? Where can I get just those 2 o rings for the top end of the post in between the plastic threading and the hexagonal screw?

Thanks,

Chris

 

[RippleInStillWater]

I took mine out today to inspect. I found only one small o-ring on the top side of the post. A weird thing is I found a slightly bigger o ring in between the post and the hexagonal screw. Is this bizarre or what? Was this someones fix for losing one of the 2 small o rings?? Where can I get just those 2 o rings for the top end of the post in between the plastic threading and the hexagonal screw?

Thanks,

Chris

Yes, I have used what I had for replacements occasionally, whomever you bought it from may have done the same thing and forgotten. You can get the o-rings at COV but (cough, cough) I've seen Amazons and eBay City Rollers with them individually!

 

[Zoranth]

The o-ring between the hex nut and center post is there by design. It is there to help prevent you from damaging an atomizer by screwing the ggts too tight. Also, the second o-ring from the center post may still be inside the plastic part. take a close look to make sure.

Reference the illustrations in this thread for clarification: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/181331-ufs-illustrations-wiki.html

Zor

I took mine out today to inspect. I found only one small o-ring on the top side of the post. A weird thing is I found a slightly bigger o ring in between the post and the hexagonal screw. Is this bizarre or what? Was this someones fix for losing one of the 2 small o rings?? Where can I get just those 2 o rings for the top end of the post in between the plastic threading and the hexagonal screw?

Thanks,

Chris

 

[RippleInStillWater]

Your illustrations have been invaluable for me, I have them printed up for my occasional cleaning/rebuilds!!!

 

[Zoranth]

Thanks Rip, very appreciated.

 

[jacktan12]

I had a shorted atty once, but the fuse kit really helped. I guess Imeo added it for just these kinds of things.

 

[dspin]

When my button starts to get warm I know the atty is starting to go, if not careful it starts to heat quickly. So far I've always caught it in time. I palm the button so I feel it right away. Metering the attys after removal attests to that. Your spring did it's job by collapsing.