Batteries and carts
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In my experience, no, there is no magic formula for all. We are all different individuals, and we all like different things (just as we all had a different favorite brand of cigarettes). Everyone has their own opinion on this, and what is best for them, fortunately, this forum can help to put you in touch with like-minded individuals. I feel, though, that vaping is so subjective to the individual, that no one can give you exactly the recommendation that you need.
Once you have tried and found something that you like, then you can ask specifics on how to tune your vape. I am sure the information you are looking for is out there, and someone with much more knowledge on it can help you.
Once you have tried and found something that you like, then you can ask specifics on how to tune your vape. I am sure the information you are looking for is out there, and someone with much more knowledge on it can help you.
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Standard resistance attys are usually between 2.7 and 3 ohm. Low resistance attys are typically 2.0 to 2.3 ohm. Most batteries in the ecig world are 3.5 to 3.7v. I believe passthroughs are 5v.
There really is no sweet spot, as it all depends on what juice you are vaping, the setup used to vape and what your preference will end up being. Carts, cartos, and tanks all have different impacts on how things get vaporized. Cartos are generally recognized as being the best performers.
LR (low resistance) attys burn hotter, which usually results in more vapor production. It is said that LR attys are best suited for tobacco flavors, and SR (standard resistance) attys are better for fruity/sweet kinds of juices. Also the ratio of PG and VG will also have a pretty big impact on vapor production as well.
However with that said, I would say a safe bet would be to get yourself some LR cartos (like Boge). Really cant go wrong with that setup, and you can also use an external tank system with the carto as well so you don't have to constantly top-off or fill up.
There really is no sweet spot, as it all depends on what juice you are vaping, the setup used to vape and what your preference will end up being. Carts, cartos, and tanks all have different impacts on how things get vaporized. Cartos are generally recognized as being the best performers.
LR (low resistance) attys burn hotter, which usually results in more vapor production. It is said that LR attys are best suited for tobacco flavors, and SR (standard resistance) attys are better for fruity/sweet kinds of juices. Also the ratio of PG and VG will also have a pretty big impact on vapor production as well.
However with that said, I would say a safe bet would be to get yourself some LR cartos (like Boge). Really cant go wrong with that setup, and you can also use an external tank system with the carto as well so you don't have to constantly top-off or fill up.
I'll take a stab at it 
OK, without talking about mods (modified or custom made e-citgs) basically the standard batteries are 3.7v. Different manufacturers offer batteries for each type of e-cig in a couple of maH ratings. The maH rating basically refers to how long the battery will last, at least in simplified terms. In other words, a 3.7v battery rated at 650maH will continue to power your e-cig for longer than a 3.7v battery rated at, say, 220maH before it has to be charged. How much longer is really a matter of the quality of the device, how you use it, and what atty's you use.
As for atty's, I've seen them from 3-4ohm down to 1.2ohm. Less ohms means less resistance, which means hotter vapor. Now, the trick is that the wrong combination can blow your atty's or drain your battery with a quickness. As a general rule, if you are using LR (low ohm) atty's (1.2-2.0ohms) you need a battery with a higher maH rating so that you aren't recharging your battery every 45 minutes. If you are using a battery set up that is greater than 4 volts, you probably shouldn't use LR atty's because they might burn out. They make HR(high ohm) atty's for systems running 5v or more.
Magic formula? Nope. It's a matter of needs and preferences. If I'm not mistaken, standard atty's are rated around 2.5ohm, and for many people produce enough vapor and throat hit to satisfy. That's what I use, and I was a heavy smoker of full flavored cigs for a long time. If you are looking for more vapor, then an LR atty will probably deliver that. If you want more throat hit, it might take a combination of LR atty and stronger juice, or just stronger juice. Battery upgrades will give you more consistent output for a longer period of time. So if you are a heavy vaper, then you might want a battery that is rated 650maH or more. 5v systems are usually mod systems, and will also produce more vapor because they let the atty get hotter. I use the E-go pass-thru, which is a 3.7v system that can also be found in 1000maH and can be charged while you are vaping via USB, which is so awesome it's dumb!
Different types of atty's will also affect vapor and TH, and so will different types of juice. I have heard that juice with a high VG (as opposed to PG) content tend to be milder. Some jiuce is 100% PG, some is 80% PG/20% VG, some is 50/50, and some is 100% VG. I use 80/20 I think? Some people say that cartomizers don't hit as strong as regular atomizers used with separate carts. I use a tank system, and I love it because there is nothing between the juice and the heating element - others use cartomizers and swear by them.
I'd start with an upgraded battery (650maH), regular impedance (ohm) atty, and find a juice strength and flavor that gives me a satisfying vape (menthol varieties work best for me as far as throat hit go - and I hear that cinnamons are wicked too). Just my
Hope that helps. I know that was more than you asked for...Oh, and welcome!
OK, without talking about mods (modified or custom made e-citgs) basically the standard batteries are 3.7v. Different manufacturers offer batteries for each type of e-cig in a couple of maH ratings. The maH rating basically refers to how long the battery will last, at least in simplified terms. In other words, a 3.7v battery rated at 650maH will continue to power your e-cig for longer than a 3.7v battery rated at, say, 220maH before it has to be charged. How much longer is really a matter of the quality of the device, how you use it, and what atty's you use.
As for atty's, I've seen them from 3-4ohm down to 1.2ohm. Less ohms means less resistance, which means hotter vapor. Now, the trick is that the wrong combination can blow your atty's or drain your battery with a quickness. As a general rule, if you are using LR (low ohm) atty's (1.2-2.0ohms) you need a battery with a higher maH rating so that you aren't recharging your battery every 45 minutes. If you are using a battery set up that is greater than 4 volts, you probably shouldn't use LR atty's because they might burn out. They make HR(high ohm) atty's for systems running 5v or more.
Magic formula? Nope. It's a matter of needs and preferences. If I'm not mistaken, standard atty's are rated around 2.5ohm, and for many people produce enough vapor and throat hit to satisfy. That's what I use, and I was a heavy smoker of full flavored cigs for a long time. If you are looking for more vapor, then an LR atty will probably deliver that. If you want more throat hit, it might take a combination of LR atty and stronger juice, or just stronger juice. Battery upgrades will give you more consistent output for a longer period of time. So if you are a heavy vaper, then you might want a battery that is rated 650maH or more. 5v systems are usually mod systems, and will also produce more vapor because they let the atty get hotter. I use the E-go pass-thru, which is a 3.7v system that can also be found in 1000maH and can be charged while you are vaping via USB, which is so awesome it's dumb!
Different types of atty's will also affect vapor and TH, and so will different types of juice. I have heard that juice with a high VG (as opposed to PG) content tend to be milder. Some jiuce is 100% PG, some is 80% PG/20% VG, some is 50/50, and some is 100% VG. I use 80/20 I think? Some people say that cartomizers don't hit as strong as regular atomizers used with separate carts. I use a tank system, and I love it because there is nothing between the juice and the heating element - others use cartomizers and swear by them.
I'd start with an upgraded battery (650maH), regular impedance (ohm) atty, and find a juice strength and flavor that gives me a satisfying vape (menthol varieties work best for me as far as throat hit go - and I hear that cinnamons are wicked too). Just my
Hope that helps. I know that was more than you asked for...Oh, and welcome!
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Carts have nothing. Carts are cartridges - just plastic and stuffing that pushes on an atomizer
Atomizers and cartomizers (aka cartos) have ohms of resistance
Slim batteries are about 3.2v (Joye 510) to 3.7v (KR808D-1 is 3.7v). Slim batteries should only use standard resistance which for them is about 2.5 to 3 ohms single coils.
Fat batteries 450mah+ and mods can use lower ohms (hotter, LR) stuff
What is hot and what ohms should be used depends on the voltage
Simplisticly for single coil attys and cartos:
ohms .5 less than voltage are barely warm and ohms 2.2 less than voltage are very hot and that is the range used
However, on mass produced fat encased batteries like Ego, some won't go below 2 ohms and some won't go below 1.7ohms because occasionally 1.5 ohms will kill batteries like Ego
----
Dual coils are different - a 1.5ohm dual coil us actually two standard resistance 3 ohm coils - not very warm at all on a 3.7v device but uses twice the power of a single 3 ohm coil, and power than any single coil.
Atomizers and cartomizers (aka cartos) have ohms of resistance
Slim batteries are about 3.2v (Joye 510) to 3.7v (KR808D-1 is 3.7v). Slim batteries should only use standard resistance which for them is about 2.5 to 3 ohms single coils.
Fat batteries 450mah+ and mods can use lower ohms (hotter, LR) stuff
What is hot and what ohms should be used depends on the voltage
Simplisticly for single coil attys and cartos:
ohms .5 less than voltage are barely warm and ohms 2.2 less than voltage are very hot and that is the range used
However, on mass produced fat encased batteries like Ego, some won't go below 2 ohms and some won't go below 1.7ohms because occasionally 1.5 ohms will kill batteries like Ego
----
Dual coils are different - a 1.5ohm dual coil us actually two standard resistance 3 ohm coils - not very warm at all on a 3.7v device but uses twice the power of a single 3 ohm coil, and power than any single coil.
I have a 1.5 dual coil tank and according to your figuring it won't work well with my ego style battery. It is 1000 mah but only puts out 3.2 to 3.7 volts or thereabout which won't heat the dual coils near as well as a 5 volt system would. I have found that it shortened by battery life significantly but didn't realize I didn't have enough volts to fully utilize the dual coil. Previously I used the Boge single coil 2.0 and I can tell if fired pretty hot but haven't used the tank long enough to see if it gets as hot. Thanks for your post, it made it kind of understandable is simple terms. Sounds like you need volts to exceed resistance by 2 or so for the coils to work best.
My personal sweet spot is 4.3-5 volts with a boge standard resistance(3 ohms roughly)cartomizer. I use a buzz pro as my everyday set up.
I also have an alpha(3.7 volt device)and i prefer 1.5 ohm 306 atomizers or 2 ohm boge low resistance cartomizers.,
sent from my Ice Cream Sandwiched Gtablet
I also have an alpha(3.7 volt device)and i prefer 1.5 ohm 306 atomizers or 2 ohm boge low resistance cartomizers.,
sent from my Ice Cream Sandwiched Gtablet
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