Batteries and chargers

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SABOTEUR

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Good question considering I'd never considered it myself. I've always opted for protected batteries. Never considered unprotected batteries as an option, though I'm sure someone might offer a very good reason why unprotected might be a valid choice. I'm very interested to see what your other responders will say.


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frosting

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I don't have an Itaste, so I'm not entirely sure on protected or unprotected so I'll share more about battery chargers.


I used a typical trust-fire for a long time, but it always made me nervous. They're known to not be the most stable chargers, but they get the job done.

My trust-fire charger recently broke this past Labor Day so I had to buy a new one and got an Intellicharger and.... Wow! It's so nice, it's so much safer, the 2014 version that I have even shows you when the battery is charged by blinking lights in a little "battery" image above each cell. It gets a little warm sometimes, but the batteries themselves always feel at a safe normal temperature. I only wish I got it sooner. With concerns for battery safety, go with something of a little higher quality if you can afford to. My intellicharger was about 32$ for a 4 cell in a brick and mortar store however I've seen them range from $20 to $28 dollars online.
 

Baditude

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You should use only IMR batteries. These are unprotected, safe-chemistry, and high-drain.

Do not use protected or unprotected ICR (li-ion) batteries. These are not safe-chemistry and not high-drain.

There is a new type of battery on the market called IMR/hybrid batteries. They use the best qualities of ICR and IMR. These are safe chemistry, and most (not all) are high drain.

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?

Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries

PBusardo's Mod Battery Information Guide
 

Warpigs

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You should use only IMR batteries. These are unprotected, safe-chemistry, and high-drain.

Do not use protected or unprotected ICR (li-ion) batteries. These are not safe-chemistry and not high-drain.

There is a new type of battery on the market called IMR/hybrid batteries. They use the best qualities of ICR and IMR. These are safe chemistry, and most (not all) are high drain.

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?

Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries

PBusardo's Mod Battery Information Guide

I use AW 18650 Protected 3100 mAh Rechargeable Lithium Battery - AltSmoke. Are those batteries not good for a Silver Bullet? I also use EH IMR 18650, 30amp, 1600mAh, Flat Top.
 

Baditude

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That would have been the battery (protected ICR) recommended 2 years ago when I began vaping. However, with the advent of safer chemistry batteries (IMR), these are the ones recommended for use in all mods.

Those protected batteries will "work" in a mechanical mod. However, should your battery's rather undependable protected circuit fail, the battery will fail (thermal runaway). This chemistry vents flames and has the real potential explode, potentially turning your mod into a pipe bomb.

Factory-made coils (cartos & clearos) are less demanding on a battery, so using a protected ICR battery is "relatively acceptable" with some misgivings. However, regulated VV/VW mods, RBA's and mechanical mods using a Kick require using a high-drain battery for optimal performance. These applications require a minimum of 9 amps continuous discharge rating; ICR batteries have a maximum discharge rating of only 3 amps.

Safer chemistry batteries are more tolerent to stress and heat. They can still vent hot gas, but are far less likely to explode when they go into thermal runaway. Additionally, with IMR's also being high-drain, they perform better than ICR batteries. 18650 high drain batteries have a minimum of 10 amps continuous discharge rating.

Because IMR batteries have a safer chemistry and have better performance, ICR batteries are considered to be obsolete for mod use in this day and age.
 
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Warpigs

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That would have been the battery (protected ICR) recommended 2 years ago when I began vaping. However, with the advent of safer chemistry batteries (IMR), these are the ones recommended for use in all mods.

The protected batteries will "work" in a mechanical mod. However, should your battery's protected circuit fail, the battery will fail. This chemistry vents flames and has the real potential explode, turning your mod into a pipe bomb.

Safer chemistry batteries are more tolerent to stress and heat. They can still vent hot gas, but are less likely to explode when they go into thermal runaway. Additionally, with IMR's also being high-drain, they perform better than ICR batteries.

ICR batteries are considered to be obsolete for mod use in this day and age.

Thank you man, I will keep this in mind when I buy a new set of batteries. Also my Silver Bullet isn't a mech. It's just the bare bones Silver Bullet. http://altsmoke.com/altsilverbullet.html
 
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Baditude

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Thank you man, I will keep this in mind when I buy a new set of batteries. Also my Silver Bullet isn't a mech. It's just the bare bones Silver Bullet. Your Online Electronic Cigarette Store
I own two of the original "bare bones" Silver Bullets myself. Semanitics aside, I still consider them a mechanical mod. They have no voltage regulator so they are an unregulated mod. Just because there is a wire in the switch shouldn't disqualify it as a mechanical mod IMHO.

If you use a Kick in a Silver Bullet, is it no longer a mechanical mod, since the Kick allows voltage regulation and variable wattage? It's still a mechanical mod in my eyes.
 
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Warpigs

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I own two of the original "bare bones" Silver Bullets myself. Semanitics aside, I still consider them a mechanical mod. They have no voltage regulator so they are an unregulated mod. Just because there is a wire in the switch shouldn't disqualify it as a mechanical mod IMHO.

If you use a Kick in a Silver Bullet, is it no longer a mechanical mod, since the Kick allows voltage regulation and variable wattage? It's still a mechanical mod in my eyes.

Roger that, Thanks dude.
 
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