Battery and Ohms

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edyle

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For the ohms to drop by half is not normal.

My guess is a 510 centerpin insulator problem.
It can be a pain working that top pressfit off for the first time to change the insulator with a better one but if you're in an area where there's no vape shops it might be worth it.

or on the other hand it might just be the atomizer coil shorting out on one side with the metal around it.

You need to isolate whether the ohms dropping from 1.9 to 1.1 is because of a 510 centerpin problem or from something happening on the topper itself. Screwing/unscrewing the 510 connector and checking ohms can give an indication whether its the connector.
 
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PedroM

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For the ohms to drop by half is not normal.

My guess is a 510 centerpin insulator problem.
It can be a pain working that top pressfit off for the first time to change the insulator with a better one but if you're in an area where there's no vape shops it might be worth it.

or on the other hand it might just be the atomizer coil shorting out on one side with the metal around it.

You need to isolate whether the ohms dropping from 1.9 to 1.1 is because of a 510 centerpin problem or from something happening on the topper itself. Screwing/unscrewing the 510 connector and checking ohms can give an indication whether its the connector.

I was Screwing/unscrewing the tank and check the ohms and get different results, from 1.1 to 2.6. When I unscrewed the tank near to take off the reading was 2.6. one time was 4.4. Could this affect the battery? I have read about batteries exploding. It is possible that the battery explode?
 

ElevenEleven

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I was Screwing/unscrewing the tank and check the ohms and get different results, from 1.1 to 2.6. When I unscrewed the tank near to take off the reading was 2.6. one time was 4.4. Could this affect the battery? I have read about batteries exploding. It is possible that the battery explode?
Normally, a battery enters thermal runaway when the battery's amperage is exceeded continuously for an extended amount of time, or from a short. No, this seems more like an issue with the device's electronics.

It makes sense that your resistance changes when you unscrew your tank since the tank's positive pin isn't making a solid connection to your device.

Did that Vamo fix work for you?
 
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K_Tech

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I was Screwing/unscrewing the tank and check the ohms and get different results, from 1.1 to 2.6. When I unscrewed the tank near to take off the reading was 2.6. one time was 4.4. Could this affect the battery? I have read about batteries exploding. It is possible that the battery explode?

On a regulated mod like the Vamo, if the circuitry is working as it is supposed to, you are protected from short circuits in your atomizer.


That should do the trick for you.
 

K_Tech

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I solved my Vamo issue by getting an SVD :)
Lol. My second SVD is sitting unused because the fire button started getting flaky a month after I got it to replace the first one that failed. Almost every mod has issues, sometimes you get lucky and get one that was built right.
 

Bunnykiller

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Lol. My second SVD is sitting unused because the fire button started getting flaky a month after I got it to replace the first one that failed. Almost every mod has issues, sometimes you get lucky and get one that was built right.

hmmm odd I have one that is over 2 yrs old ( wifes present ADV) and has no issues, I bought another one for me since she stole my original one... and it is doing well, no issues. I had 2 Vamos and both died from falls of less than 36" height ( one fell off the counter and the other out of my jacket pocket) also, I found the 510 threads on the vamos were wearing out a bit prematurely, brass just doesnt hold up well in that application :(
and you are right... every mod has its quirks, I can deal with quirks, but a total failure of function disturbs me ;)
 

K_Tech

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hmmm odd I have one that is over 2 yrs old ( wifes present ADV) and has no issues, I bought another one for me since she stole my original one... and it is doing well, no issues. I had 2 Vamos and both died from falls of less than 36" height ( one fell off the counter and the other out of my jacket pocket) also, I found the 510 threads on the vamos were wearing out a bit prematurely, brass just doesnt hold up well in that application :(
and you are right... every mod has its quirks, I can deal with quirks, but a total failure of function disturbs me ;)
It made me sad, because I really liked the SVD. One of these days I will get off my lazy .... and tear into it to see what went wrong.

Oh yes, those threads on the Vamo were just a horrible thing. Mine were completely worn out after about a month of use. Fortunately I found a replacement SS top cap on line for around $7, took me all of about 30 minutes to get the new one installed.
 

edyle

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Well, I broke it. I saw mine does not have the white O ring the other have (I have saw in the pictures and the video in youtube) Maybe because mine was Vamo v6. Mine have a hard black plastic part.

I fixed my vamo3 twice so far; when it was 3 months old and then again at 6 months old; now it's 2 years old; need to use a vice to work the top off; use one of the battery tubes to screw onto the top instead of the top ring to help leverage the top off.

IMG_20140430_224739.jpg


I don't or hardly ever screw/unscrew on 510 threads anymore. If you only have 1 tank or 1 mod then you have to, but once you acquire an arsenal of mods and toppers, if you leave the toppers semi-permanently attached, you reduce the chance of 510 centerpin contact problems.
 
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PedroM

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I fixed my vamo3 twice so far; when it was 3 months old and then again at 6 months old; now it's 2 years old; need to use a vice to work the top off; use one of the battery tubes to screw onto the top instead of the top ring to help leverage the top off.

View attachment 466013

I don't or hardly ever screw/unscrew on 510 threads anymore. If you only have 1 tank or 1 mod then you have to, but once you acquire an arsenal of mods and toppers, if you leave the toppers semi-permanently attached, you reduce the chance of 510 centerpin contact problems.
That black plastic part next to the twizzers, I cant get it out. I tried with twizzers, but is like got glued or something. I had to buy a MVP 20w for $50 (is think was expensive, the only Mod in Tobacco Shop in San Juan)
 

edyle

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That black plastic part next to the twizzers, I cant get it out. I tried with twizzers, but is like got glued or something. I had to buy a MVP 20w for $50 (is think was expensive, the only Mod in Tobacco Shop in San Juan)

it should slide out; it should be held in place purely by friction; all it does is it holds the green pcb board up against the other side; real simple; even if you destroy it, it's so simple you can make a replacement one yourself by cutting a piece of pvc used for plumbing

the part you don't want to mess up is the pcb board; and the tricky part is to solder over the wire's (I replaced the existing wires with speaker wire), and finding a nice suitable rubber/silicone grommet to replace the centerpin insulator: I used a protank coil centerpin silicone grommet the last time.

But now that you got your mvp20 it's probably not worth the trouble.

Meanwhile it's Worthing thinking about getting a mech and a kick;

I used to have 2 regulated mods... or 2 and a half I guess; a vamo3, a sigelei1 and I have a vamo5s control head;
The zmax is .. on the mend; centerpin problem; but I haven't got back to it since last I tried.
I got over 10 mech now, and 5 kick modules .
Bottom line is my vamo starts acting up, I could just switch to a mech with a kick and get back to work.
 
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PedroM

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it should slide out; it should be held in place purely by friction; all it does is it holds the green pcb board up against the other side; real simple; even if you destroy it, it's so simple you can make a replacement one yourself by cutting a piece of pvc used for plumbing

the part you don't want to mess up is the pcb board; and the tricky part is to solder over the wire's (I replaced the existing wires with speaker wire), and finding a nice suitable rubber/silicone grommet to replace the centerpin insulator: I used a protank coil centerpin silicone grommet the last time.

But now that you got your mvp20 it's probably not worth the trouble.

Meanwhile it's Worthing thinking about getting a mech and a kick;

I used to have 2 regulated mods... or 2 and a half I guess; a vamo3, a sigelei1 and I have a vamo5s control head;
The zmax is .. on the mend; centerpin problem; but I haven't got back to it since last I tried.
I got over 10 mech now, and 5 kick modules .
Bottom line is my vamo starts acting up, I could just switch to a mech with a kick and get back to work.
I like to repair stuff. I will try to take it out even if destryed like you wrote. I havent thought that making that piece of plastic wont be hard. You wrote mech and kick, mech = mechanical mod, but what is a kick?
 

edyle

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I like to repair stuff. I will try to take it out even if destryed like you wrote. I havent thought that making that piece of plastic wont be hard. You wrote mech and kick, mech = mechanical mod, but what is a kick?

1670801-4.jpg

$9.07 Authentic Sigelei Variable Wattage Kick Module for Mechanical Mod - 5-15W at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

this is the one I use.
I bought 5.

it goes on top the battery.
You get the voltage/wattage regulation and short circuit protection and 10 second timeout protections of a regulated mod when using a mech mod.
You don't get a screen or ohm checking or battery indicator.

This one only goes up to 15 watts and nowadays hardly anybody uses kicks anymore but if people used them more then instead of upgrading from a 15 watt mod to a 30 watt mod for 50 bucks, people would just upgrade from a 15 watt kick to a 30 watt kick for $10 or $20.
 
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edyle

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I like to repair stuff. I will try to take it out even if destryed like you wrote. I havent thought that making that piece of plastic wont be hard. You wrote mech and kick, mech = mechanical mod, but what is a kick?

Use a paper clip to get it out; stretch out the paper clip and use a pliers to make a hook at the end ; stick that down the tube to catch onto the end of the plastic to pull it out
 
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