Battery Boxes that will fit dual 18500's and the NCP-630A

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L7D4N

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Does anyone know of a battery box that will fit dual 18500's and the NCP-630A from madvapes? This will be my first box mod, and I have soldering experience on breadboards, so I was hoping to jump right in and make one with the spare batteries I already own.

If anyone knows of a compatible battery box, or even a better regulator with wiring diagram, I'd certainly be appreciative!
 

L7D4N

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You're completely right, in that there are very MANY good ideas on here, but with me starting from scratch, it seems way more daunting that it probably is. I lack ingenuity in every sense of the word, so I usually need an idea to replicate more so that come up with one.

Would you recommend the regulator from MadVapes, or is there an easy Evercool tutorial to follow? My goal is to come up with a single battery boosted mod up to 5.5v, so I'm still on the hunt for a n00b-schematic for that particular goal :D

I purchased a $15 tattoo adjustable power regulator so I can mock battery voltage on a breadboard once I have all the needed parts, I just need a list of parts :thumb:
 

L7D4N

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Thanks Craig!

What type of fuse would I be looking at when trying to implement some sort of safety insurance to the mod I'm looking to build? I'm unsure of the specs needed, but I suppose I'd prefer it to trip at 3.5 ~ 4A in the event of failure. Also, I've seen the other threads indicating the "LM2596" seems to be a good purchase, but I haven't seen any personal experiences regarding it's heat output, or if there is an "evercool" version of a plain-and-simple regulator good for the newbie.
 

CraigHB

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LM2596 based switching regulators are perfectly fine, though not the most efficient and compact of the lot. They're inexpensive, but you can pay more and get a more efficient and compact buck (step-down) regulator like an OKR-T/6 or PTR08060W.

Since a a buck switching regulator is efficient, you're taking in higher voltage and lower current then putting out lower voltage and higher current. That means there's no issue using smaller protected cells. Like other buck regulators, LM2596 based regulators provide input current limiting so you're covered there. With protected cells you're fail safe, in other words, you're still safe even with one failure. With unprotected cells, you have the regulator to protect you from over-current, but you're not fail safe. If you're concerned about it, you may want to add a fuse in-line like this.

The standard regulators like the NCP630A also provide input current limiting, but since they are not efficient, you can possibly hit the current limit on smaller protected cells like 14500s. It's not a concern for larger cells since the protecton allows higher currents.

The exception is with a boost regulator (which you're not using) since they typcially don't have input current limiting.
 

L7D4N

Ice Cream!
ECF Veteran
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Nov 30, 2011
437
303
Dallas, Texas
LM2596 based switching regulators are perfectly fine, though not the most efficient and compact of the lot. They're inexpensive, but you can pay more and get a more efficient and compact buck (step-down) regulator like an OKR-T/6 or PTR08060W.

Since a a buck switching regulator is efficient, you're taking in higher voltage and lower current then putting out lower voltage and higher current. That means there's no issue using smaller protected cells. Like other buck regulators, LM2596 based regulators provide input current limiting so you're covered there. With protected cells you're fail safe, in other words, you're still safe even with one failure. With unprotected cells, you have the regulator to protect you from over-current, but you're not fail safe. If you're concerned about it, you may want to add a fuse in-line like this.

The standard regulators like the NCP630A also provide input current limiting, but since they are not efficient, you can possibly hit the current limit on smaller protected cells like 14500s. It's not a concern for larger cells since the protecton allows higher currents.

The exception is with a boost regulator (which you're not using) since they typcially don't have input current limiting.

That's EXACTLY what I was wanting to know. Thank you good sir, it's much appreciated!
 
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