Had an interesting debate recently regarding high drain batteries. There seems to be this fear of high power mods / sub-ohm set-ups that you must have 30/35 amp batteries, and if you don't, your going to have your mod blow up in your face. These fears are the same reason why lithium-ion batteries are only now being brought mainstream where they have been in existence since Regan was president (that was 1980 for you younger generation).
I have a .24 ohm RDA, and have 18650 30 amp, AW IMR 18490, and AW IMR 18350. Well the 30 amp 18650 is the only one I can use right, cause the other 2 have too low of an amp limit to use most people would say. First all batteries have a burst rating which is double (most times) the standard amp rating, so for 5 - 10 second draw you are bursting within the allowed amp rating. Well that covers the 18490 since the amp rating is 14-16 amps, so what about the 18350. Surely if you fire it up its going to "take your face off". These are batteries, not nuclear power cells. Voltage under load for 18650 30A = 3.5 volts. For the AW IMR 18490 = 3.6 volts (AW's are still the best made). 18350 voltage under load at .24 ohms = 2.7 volts. It didn't blow up, it didn't melt, it didn't even get warm. It just didn't give the voltage under load that the correct amp limit batteries gave.
Ok, whoop de do, why should I care. Cause heat is the issue. Think of your battery as an engine. If your driving your car down the highway at 65 mph, there is no issue. Now if you are towing a semi behind you, your not going to go 65 mph, and you are going to add so much heat to your engine that it will blow up.
Your carto tank / clearomizer setups will work with most 18xxx battery out there. That's your family car, and if you don't abuse it you should never have a problem. Once you go into the genesis / RDA / RBA setup you put a large strain on the batteries (under 1 ohm). Just because you have a 30 amp battery doesn't mean you have nothing to worry about. My 30 amp batteries still gets warm. Heat is the killer of batteries. You can do all this research, buy fancy meters, and pull out your calculus notes to do the math. All it takes is a simple touch of the hand.
If its hot, let it cool, or swap batteries.
I have a .24 ohm RDA, and have 18650 30 amp, AW IMR 18490, and AW IMR 18350. Well the 30 amp 18650 is the only one I can use right, cause the other 2 have too low of an amp limit to use most people would say. First all batteries have a burst rating which is double (most times) the standard amp rating, so for 5 - 10 second draw you are bursting within the allowed amp rating. Well that covers the 18490 since the amp rating is 14-16 amps, so what about the 18350. Surely if you fire it up its going to "take your face off". These are batteries, not nuclear power cells. Voltage under load for 18650 30A = 3.5 volts. For the AW IMR 18490 = 3.6 volts (AW's are still the best made). 18350 voltage under load at .24 ohms = 2.7 volts. It didn't blow up, it didn't melt, it didn't even get warm. It just didn't give the voltage under load that the correct amp limit batteries gave.
Ok, whoop de do, why should I care. Cause heat is the issue. Think of your battery as an engine. If your driving your car down the highway at 65 mph, there is no issue. Now if you are towing a semi behind you, your not going to go 65 mph, and you are going to add so much heat to your engine that it will blow up.
Your carto tank / clearomizer setups will work with most 18xxx battery out there. That's your family car, and if you don't abuse it you should never have a problem. Once you go into the genesis / RDA / RBA setup you put a large strain on the batteries (under 1 ohm). Just because you have a 30 amp battery doesn't mean you have nothing to worry about. My 30 amp batteries still gets warm. Heat is the killer of batteries. You can do all this research, buy fancy meters, and pull out your calculus notes to do the math. All it takes is a simple touch of the hand.
If its hot, let it cool, or swap batteries.
