You're using the correct battery chemistry.
IMR & INR are both "safer chemistry" cells.
(INR sometimes referred to as 'hybrid' chemistry)
IMR/INR are the correct batteries to use for all vaping purposes.
Battery question.
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You're using the correct battery chemistry.
IMR & INR are both "safer chemistry" cells.
(INR sometimes referred to as 'hybrid' chemistry)
IMR/INR are the correct batteries to use for all vaping purposes.
From what I can see in this thread you asked about an istick 60w , I see no mention of kick or mechanical by the OP.
The istick 60w is a regulated power device with built in saftey features, any IMR/INR chemistry battery with a suitable CDR for the power range you intend to vape will work safely.
The LG hg2 is a good 20a CDR cell, it will work safely in your istick.
When using a mechanical power device the only saftey feature is the one between the users ears.
IMR/INR cells are the correct "safer chemistry" cells to use in a mechanical also. You must use a cell that has a CDR that will support the resistance range you intend to use plus a saftey margin, % under the battery's CDR.
Even safer chemistry batteries can be dangerous if stressed, misused, shorted, damaged, over heated, slight tear in wrap etc...
The istick 60w is a regulated power device with built in saftey features, any IMR/INR chemistry battery with a suitable CDR for the power range you intend to vape will work safely.
The LG hg2 is a good 20a CDR cell, it will work safely in your istick.
When using a mechanical power device the only saftey feature is the one between the users ears.
IMR/INR cells are the correct "safer chemistry" cells to use in a mechanical also. You must use a cell that has a CDR that will support the resistance range you intend to use plus a saftey margin, % under the battery's CDR.
Even safer chemistry batteries can be dangerous if stressed, misused, shorted, damaged, over heated, slight tear in wrap etc...
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No one in this thread said that.
In your OP you called them "H2" batteries. They are either HE2 or HG2.
Both are acceptable cells for vaping.
The big thing here is a vaper who isnt sure what type of cell they are using, asking about kicks in the Mech forum.
Lots of red flags here.
It would be irresponsible on our part if we didnt address this. Its a safety issue.
We just want you to be safe.
I made a mistake in calling them H2 when I should have said HG2 I guess that would have changed the whole conversation of the thread.
My fault. Sorry.
I made a mistake in calling them H2 when I should have said HG2 I guess that would have changed the whole conversation of the thread.
Its okay. I think you mistook the tone of my post.
We are here to help.
As far as changing the converstaion,
Not so much.
You were also unsure of the chemistry of the battery, and I would also surmise you dont understand how ohms law relates to battery safety in a mech.
These are extremely important when using a mechanical mod.
Its like putting gas in a car, or using a chainsaw.
Its relatively simple and safe if you know how to use the equipment properly, but without proper knowledge you can get seriously hurt.
Not true. I knew my batteries were INR, but didn't know that that was the "hybird" name for IMR. I perfectly understand ohms law with regards to safely using a mech mod.
I know the amp limits of my batteries and know I'm safe because I don't sub ohm. I wouldn't even use half the amperage my battery can handle.
I made a mistake in calling them H2 when I should have said HG2 I guess that would have changed the whole conversation of the thread.
Bad Ninja is not known for being subtle but then again he is a Ninja.
The morale here is a mistake on a mechanical mod can have severe consequences.
I noticed that and decided not to get one. I don't want to limit myself should I end up building and it coming out to 1.0 ohm. I vape anywhere from 1.0 to 1.8 ohms.
Depending on what you are trying to do, that might be better, or maybe not.
The kick allows you to adjust the power similar to a regulated device.
A fuse is just a safety measure.
With HG2 cells a 1.0 ohm build is good to go in a proper mech.
Kicks don't fit the Beacon.
Large bore on the Beacon for the threaded center tube. Even the dual contact Evolv Kick 2 would need to be modified to work properly.
You can use the Smok fuse in the Beacon, you have to center the middle tube because you will loose a couple threads.
The Fuse | Madvapes
Large bore on the Beacon for the threaded center tube. Even the dual contact Evolv Kick 2 would need to be modified to work properly.
You can use the Smok fuse in the Beacon, you have to center the middle tube because you will loose a couple threads.
The Fuse | Madvapes
If you use resistances between 1Ω ~ 1.8Ω with a 20a CDR battery in a mechanical you don't really need a kick or fuse.
4.2v / 1Ω = 4.2a & 16.6w
4.2v / 1.8Ω = 2.3a & 9.8w
That's at full charge, the voltage will fall off fairly quickly which will reduce amp load & watt output.
Those batteries aren't pure IMR chemistry, they're hybrids. In fact, very few of the batteries we use are pure IMR. Hybrid chemistry batteries are safe to use though (within their specs of course). Kicks won't care about the chemistry and will work with any battery, but in order to be safe, safe(er) chemistry batteries should be used.
Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
You are right...however..
Hybrid chemistry cells like the lg he2 use IMR chemistry with a little nickle added in for oomph. Thats why they call it "hybrid" chemistry
I should have been more specific.
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