Not for sure if this is the correct section for this, so I won't be too upset if it gets moved. But my wife purchased me a mech for our anniversary. Problem is I don't think the 18650's I have now are protected so I went to RTD and ordered some AW IMR 18350's (700mah) as well as a vape Safe fuse. I didn't think to look up the amp limit on the batteries I bought so now I'm wondering if it will be fine. It appears that they have a 6 amp limit. Using an ohms law calculator tells me that as long as I keep my builds above 1 ohm I should be fine on a freshly charged battery. Is my thinking correct? AW 18350 + vape Safe Fuse + >1 ohm = safe?
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Well in the description it says it just trips if it senses a short in the mod. It gives no information as to amp limits or anything about amps.
Well... saying it trips on a short or that it trips at a particular current is essentially the same thing... a short is huge drop in resistance (and a huge jump in current).
There are a few 'vape safe' fuses kicking around, but they tend to all cut out at 7 amps. 7A also happens to be the max safe discharge rate for that AW 18350. So anything above 0.6 ohms will keep you below 7 amps. Which is nice and all, but that low will suck that poor little 18350 dry in a blink of an eye.
Anything above 0.8 and you'll be fine.
There are a few 'vape safe' fuses kicking around, but they tend to all cut out at 7 amps. 7A also happens to be the max safe discharge rate for that AW 18350. So anything above 0.6 ohms will keep you below 7 amps. Which is nice and all, but that low will suck that poor little 18350 dry in a blink of an eye.
Anything above 0.8 and you'll be fine.
VapeSafe 2 Info .
Here is the ECF thread on it,
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/414423-vapesafe-2-shortstop-sub-ohms.html .
Yes it does trip if shorted but it also does have a 6 amp limit also.If 6 or more amps tried to pass thru the device,it trips and shuts down.So if you are sub ohm vaping and somehow more amps than the battery allows tried to pass thru,the fuse would trip,and the MOD will not fire.If you are going to vape with sub ohm builds,i would suggest going higher than the 18350 batteries.You will be fine with the AW 18350,i would just not recommend to another vaper to use sub ohm builds running on 18350 batts.
Here is the ECF thread on it,
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/414423-vapesafe-2-shortstop-sub-ohms.html .
Yes it does trip if shorted but it also does have a 6 amp limit also.If 6 or more amps tried to pass thru the device,it trips and shuts down.So if you are sub ohm vaping and somehow more amps than the battery allows tried to pass thru,the fuse would trip,and the MOD will not fire.If you are going to vape with sub ohm builds,i would suggest going higher than the 18350 batteries.You will be fine with the AW 18350,i would just not recommend to another vaper to use sub ohm builds running on 18350 batts.
Yeah... t8k does make a good point. I have 350's, and running my 0.9 K100/RSST with one would make for a REALLY compact little device, but it's bettery off with the 18650s in there... longer charge life, less stress on the battery, etc.
Another little thing about trying to get some satisfaction out of an 18350 mech . . . . the smaller you leave the air hole on your atty the more intensity you can experience. So, you can run a coil that is (comparatively) a couple tenths of an ohm higher (say .9Ω vs .7Ω) and get sufficient TH, flavor, and warmth with the restricted air flow of a smaller air hole. If you open up the air hole, you get more poof-poof coming out of your mouth; but it's at the expense of the satisfaction that keeps you off the stinkies.
The higher res. build will give you more battery run time, and demand less of your batts. As LeoRex alluded to, you can ask for, say, 5.5 Amps from this little battery, and it'll give it to you . . . . . but not with the oomph of a high drain 18650, and not for long. Better to ask for 4.5 Amps and receive.
The higher res. build will give you more battery run time, and demand less of your batts. As LeoRex alluded to, you can ask for, say, 5.5 Amps from this little battery, and it'll give it to you . . . . . but not with the oomph of a high drain 18650, and not for long. Better to ask for 4.5 Amps and receive.
Yep that's all i was saying,longer battery life with 650's and you won't have to carry around so many spare 350's to get you thru the day.
I wish I would of found the actual site for the Vape Safe fuse first. It looks like it can handle 3.5 amps just fine without tripping. It looks like with a fresh battery as long as I keep the ohms above 1.2 I shouldn't have a problem at all. I was more worried about when/if I decide to go sub ohm. Ive been stuck with around 1.6 with the wire I have and my SVD. Ordered some different wire and I'll see how it goes. If I do decide to go lower than 1.0 I will upgrade my batts. What would be my protection options with sub ohm? At 0.5 a fresh battery would pull around 7 amps, which also happens to be the cuttoff for most of the fuses as you say.
Going sub ohm at .5 there is no need of the vape safe or any other fuse for that fact,they just will not let the MOD fire.
Well.... there's sub-ohm and there's sub-ohm... A lot of people run RBA/RDAs in the .7 to .9 ohm range, and while they are cranking along, things are still fairly, well, sane. 
My RSST is at 0.9 now and it's vaping well. A couple of builds ago I had it down to .8 and it got a bit too harsh/hot and never wicked fast enough to keep up with the power.
Once you get to .6 and below, that's kind of hot-roding... You are talking north of 30 watts and start needed really specialized high-drain batteries.
Friendly advice.... if/when you decide to start dipping down lower, step down slow. Don't just go hell bent for glory and wrap a .6 ohm coil. You may (probably) not like it.
My RSST is at 0.9 now and it's vaping well. A couple of builds ago I had it down to .8 and it got a bit too harsh/hot and never wicked fast enough to keep up with the power.Once you get to .6 and below, that's kind of hot-roding...
You are talking north of 30 watts and start needed really specialized high-drain batteries.Friendly advice.... if/when you decide to start dipping down lower, step down slow.
Don't just go hell bent for glory and wrap a .6 ohm coil. You may (probably) not like it.Well the reason I went with 350's in the first place is for size. A 650 in a SVD is HUGE.
I don't plan on stressing these batteries that much, hence the topic. I don't want a boom or just kill my batteres. I guess I made it seem like I was looking for sub ohm in my first post, but I'm not just yet. I'm more worried about safety with something less than 1.6 for now. Later I might, but for now I just want it a little lower than 1.6. I will definitely play around with some things when it comes to the setup. I have an A7 RDA now and love it. I also have an RSST and Igo-W on the way to play with.
I won't be doing super low ohms with these tiny bats so hopefully I can squeze at least half a work day out of them. I'll probably lug around my SVD with a 650 in it just incase.
So what would I go with then? Just the best protected batt I could?
Lol no I don't plan on jumping from 1.6 down to 0.5. I just wanted to know what my options are now with what I have coming in and what I would need to go past those limits. Mainly just curiosity in my next battery purchase.Well.... there's sub-ohm and there's sub-ohm... A lot of people run RBA/RDAs in the .7 to .9 ohm range, and while they are cranking along, things are still fairly, well, sane.
Once you get to .6 and below, that's kind of hot-roding...
Friendly advice.... if/when you decide to start dipping down lower, step down slow.
I do keep one of my RDA's at .5~ and never change it simply because i do love that hot vape i get from it like my cigarettes used to pack.I generally hit it first thing in the morning until i have had my coffee fix and breakfast.Then i go to .8-.9 and stay there until it's almost bedtime,then i am back at my .5 again.I do experiment though,...i have been down to a .2~ build and the vape was/is intense,unfortunately,you can only take short draws that low and the battery gets used up quick.Nothing is wrong with experimenting,as long as you keep it safe.
True that... With a 650, my Vamo feels like a police baton. I picked up some 350s for the same reason and the 650s are now at home in my K100.... which, funny enough, with the 650s in there, my K100 is a wee-bit shorter than my 350'd Vamo.... both being really the perfect size for the bludgeons I call my hands... just wish the 350s lasted longer. Battery life is probably the single biggest reason I am going to be picking up another mech soon to replace my Vamo as my secondary. What kind of mech do you have?
As for batteries, AW IMRs are kind of the top shelf brand currently... I run the 2000 mah AW IMRs along with some EFest IMR 2250s... both do pretty well... and there's always a safety fuse in there.
Yes,i use Efest Hybrid 18650 2250Mah 10A batts and they perform extremely well.The AW batts are the batt of choice here on the forums.You can also choose to use protected AW batteries (they are the black colored batts) these have protection built in but i am not sure if they would function like the fuse does?If so,then the MOD will not fire with them either.
Most forms of protection seem to be at an Amp rating that doesn't go in much for sub1/2Ω. The AW 1600mAh is rated at 24 Amps (continuous) VS the 2000mAh @ 10A. We got lucky in the REO forum and hit on an automotive fuse mod that uses a 10A fuse that pops instantly on a hard short, and provides excellent conductivity. Mr. REO (Rob) is coming out with a beryllium copper contact/safetyspring package that is designed for superlow V-drop at subΩ and provides safety. Honestly, right now, the REO Grand is the only device I know of* that can hit some deep subΩ with safety and top notch V-drop figures. It does require some modding at present; but the fancy contact package is imminent.
OP, I know this is totally off topic (as is the whole subΩ business); but others will read . . . .
*there may be lots of others, I just personally don't know
OP, I know this is totally off topic (as is the whole subΩ business); but others will read . . . .
*there may be lots of others, I just personally don't know
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As I said my first mech is in the mail. Well it actually came in today. It's the Chi You from FT. It seemed to have some hype behind it and I liked it's looks so I let the wife know I had my eye on it. I really like the build quality of it and it seems like it is going to be a very sturdy device that will last. I don't feel comfortable using no protection so I haven't tried it with my 650's. I can wait a couple days to play. I know AW is good so that is why I picked them from a reputable vendor. I wish I would of looked up the specs before purchase and got something with a little more wiggle room.
Well it seems that my only protection options would be protected batts if I do decide to go loooow. I'll look more into it once I get there. The way I take it is, if the protection in the battery trips the battery is done. The fuse is resettable so if something goes wrong you aren't out a battery. Also they take a little bit more length in your tube.
Yeah not completely relevant to me, but still some good info that someone might stumble across. I've also dabbled with some homemade bottom feeders and will eventually get a REO. But by then it will probably be stock or an option when ordering.
Yes they do take a little more room in the tube,not much,about 1-2mm more length.With using protected batts for sub ohm,i have not used/tried protected batts,i always use IMR batts so i am not sure if in fact protected batts would trip in sub ohm??I do know i have never had a problem yet at .5~ with Efest Hybrid 2250Mah batts.You are also right if something goes wrong with the prot. batts,you are not out a batt.I do however,know the fuse,will not work that low(.5~).I have tried with my ShortStop Holocron chip and the MOD would not fire at all,the fuse would not let it work.
The shortstop drops out at 5 amps I think... the Kamry and Smok might be higher... 6 or 7 amps.
For the real sub stuff, I don't think there is anything out there...
As for the protected batteries... in my humble opinion, I'd wait for a fuse and use IMR batteries rather than use protected cells (mech or APV both). They put protection circuits on those batteries because you really don't want to be around one when they suffer a catastrophic failure... IMRs aren't nearly as nasty if they go south (hence the lack of any protection circuitry).
There's a reason why most all the reputable hardware makers recommend IMR batteries.... outfits like Provape, retail sites.. etc... you'll see "We recommend the use of IMR 'safe chemistry' batteries on XXX devices.
Problem is that the crazy low resistance stuff, there's not much out there as far as protection gear... too high a current and too low a resistance. Once you get below .4 ohms, you are dancing with the dragon at that point....50+ watts, 15+ amps... To each their own, but there's no WAY I'd put something like that near my face, nevermind vape it.
If you want to go REALLY low, there are some IMR batteries with a higher current limits, but other than a collapsible spring, there's not much else you can use.
For the real sub stuff, I don't think there is anything out there...
As for the protected batteries... in my humble opinion, I'd wait for a fuse and use IMR batteries rather than use protected cells (mech or APV both). They put protection circuits on those batteries because you really don't want to be around one when they suffer a catastrophic failure... IMRs aren't nearly as nasty if they go south (hence the lack of any protection circuitry).
There's a reason why most all the reputable hardware makers recommend IMR batteries.... outfits like Provape, retail sites.. etc... you'll see "We recommend the use of IMR 'safe chemistry' batteries on XXX devices.
Problem is that the crazy low resistance stuff, there's not much out there as far as protection gear... too high a current and too low a resistance. Once you get below .4 ohms, you are dancing with the dragon at that point....50+ watts, 15+ amps... To each their own, but there's no WAY I'd put something like that near my face, nevermind vape it.
If you want to go REALLY low, there are some IMR batteries with a higher current limits, but other than a collapsible spring, there's not much else you can use.
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