best mechanical mod

[sonicbomb]

Yes ohms law, i read that you have to stop at some point, when your battery loses power and goes down in V, but how low? Or is it clear by the amount of vape? So i wont discharge it.

Now you say the build change. I havent experinced this before, any examples? Maybe im to much of a freak that likes to build coils too often and try new builds !

Not discharging the battery below 3.2v may extend it's usable lifespan. I tend to swap my batteries out at around 3.6v, because yes the vape gets weak.

Sometimes the screws in the posts that hold the coil can work their way loose.

 

[Bad Ninja]

im not much after the lock bottom, as i for rule never have it my pocket, if i take my mod with me its in my hand on a space between my seats in the car.

I really love huge clouds. And about cleaning of the mods anything speciel?
or easy to do with.

True about the money, but i dont know the quality of a clone, but i honestly rather pay for something that works, that something there always is a little issue here and there that just will annoy the hell out of me. But i dont know the quality difference if it is worth.

1. Smart move not pocketing a mod.
They are not designed to be shoved in pocket. this is how many accidents start.

2. Clouds have less to do with the mod and more to do with properly learning how to build an atomizer.

3. Cleaning the mod is easy. Soap and water, simple metal polish.

4. Most clones are better made than their authentic counterparts, in bigger factories with better equipment.

People do not buy authentics for quality or performance.

They buy them for collectibility, and other reasons.

I have over 85 mechs and probably 20 lbs of atomizers, both clone and authentic, and have held thousands of them.

Unless you are a collector, get a clone first. If you like it, check out the authentic.

 

[Vaslovik]

im not much after the lock bottom, as i for rule never have it my pocket, if i take my mod with me its in my hand on a space between my seats in the car.

I really love huge clouds. And about cleaning of the mods anything speciel?
or easy to do with.

Well the button lock on a bottom button mech is pretty important. On most of them if you just set them down without locking that button they will fire. I strongly prefer the Greek top/side button mechs, but they also have button locks, and trust me you really do want that! It's really not nice at all to have your mech fire your atty when you don't want it to, and in some cases that can go on continuously while you are unaware of it.

As for cleaning mechs the threads are very important to keep clean. I use a clean rag and alcohol running that through the threads with a fingernail until I don't get any more yuckies out of them, and for the 510 female threads you can get these spiffy little brushes from Fastech that will do it nicely, but usually I just use a Q-tip with alcohol.

The switch is the main thing, and you want a mech with a switch you can get into and clean every part of. It can be surprising how much better your mech hits after a thorough cleaning. Somehow the yuckies get in there and into the most inner parts, so regular cleaning is a good thing to do

 

[Vaslovik]

Is it worth to get the real? Or should i just go for a clone

I used clones for over 2 1/2 years, and I did okay with them. Some were better than others. I couldn't afford authentics until somewhat recently, but as I was already permanently set on mechs it was a no brainer when MMV put all their Poldiacs on sale, and I could get them for $80-$90 instead of $260. I snatched up 4 of them fast, and all the spare parts I could too.

If you do find you can live with a mech, and the trade-offs are okay for you, then an authentic might be just the ticket for you. One thing I'll recommend, whichever mech you get, buy spare parts!

Springs, magnets, a couple of complete switch assemblies, rice pins, contacts, etc. Most authentics are good and durable, but everything mechanical breaks or wears out at some point, and if they stop making your mech, which can happen, you will be glad you have the spare parts.

 

[Bad Ninja]

I would avoid side fire mechs if you plan on vaping low resistance builds.
Hot springs and tiny switches don't play well with low sub ohm builds.

 

[ShapeNvape]

many thanks for all your great advices!

If you could mention som nice clones and where to get them, inside of EU if possible

 

[Bad Ninja]

many thanks for all your great advices!

If you could mention som nice clones and where to get them, inside of EU if possible

Fasttech is a wonderful resource.
They are very legit.
They have awesome clones, and crappy ones.
They are in China, so shipping takes a couple weeks, but for some of us it's well worth the wait.

Be sure to read reviews and discussions on each product page.

 

[Brandon David]

Infinite's cartel clone is pretty nice. Mine hits better & has a nicer switch than my authentic. I like it enough that I have the stainless and the brass set.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[ShapeNvape]

Nemesis style copper
King III
Chi You
Stingray

All clones from fasttech
I consider buying these 4 since its that cheap and the wait time. Try some different too

 

[HauntedMyst]

Sadly, the best (in my opinion) aren't made anymore since Super T went out of business. If you can find a Precise +, ELA or Workman on the classifieds, you get a very well made, CNC mod that will last a lifetime.

 

[sonicbomb]

Sadly, the best (in my opinion) aren't made anymore since Super T went out of business. If you can find a Precise +, ELA or Workman on the classifieds, you get a very well made, CNC mod that will last a lifetime.

A quick google turned up two sites still selling them, and a clone on FT. I'm not liking the look of the firing switch if I'm honest.