Hey guys, I was wondering if there is a particular set up that will get me the most out of my DNA30 Hana mod. I've done some research and it seems that everyone that uses dna 20 or 30 mods are building 1.8-1.0 ohm coils. Is there a specific reason for that? I just received mine yesterday and although I haven't really had to time play with it yet, I've been using a .65 ohm build in it and I'm not getting the warm vape when I turn it up to 30 watts. I'm not really sure why.......
Best set up for DNA30?
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What gauge wire are you using? RDA? Wicking material? And what kind of batteries? Just to cover the bases.
I got a Hanamodz v3 myself, and I mean the whole point of it is that it is a VV/VW that can hit what, down to .3ohms? So alot of people get it to go sub ohm with their builds. People go sub ohms because, for some, its a better vape when you can get the heat going, in a safe enviroment.
I got a Hanamodz v3 myself, and I mean the whole point of it is that it is a VV/VW that can hit what, down to .3ohms? So alot of people get it to go sub ohm with their builds. People go sub ohms because, for some, its a better vape when you can get the heat going, in a safe enviroment.
Doesn't really matter what ohms you use on a vv/vw they adjust the volts and watts, the dna's have a problem, they don't like low ohm coils at low wattage settings, they can't adjust it and the ohms will start to flash. I find myself doing 12 wraps 28gage on a kayfun because it easier to wrap around the posts without messing up the coil.
The hole point of a dna is that it out performs any vw on the market until that 100watt monster is released Grand Innovations Gi2 at 100 watts Box Mod Vaporizer - YouTube
Easy version, mech mods the lower the ohms the more wattage.
VW doesn't really matter what ohm coil you use it can only put out wattage its rated for no matter the coil.
The hole point of a dna is that it out performs any vw on the market until that 100watt monster is released Grand Innovations Gi2 at 100 watts Box Mod Vaporizer - YouTube
Easy version, mech mods the lower the ohms the more wattage.
VW doesn't really matter what ohm coil you use it can only put out wattage its rated for no matter the coil.
I was using a triple twisted 32g duel coil (.65 ohms) in a Atomic RDA with cotton wicks. I'm using a Sony VTC4.
Thats very weird that even @30 watts you werent getting warm vape...
For me when I use lower gauges, the vape temp goes up, but it may be just a fluke. Try switching to maybe 28 gauge kanthal a1
Thanks for the tip. I'll try that. Just out of curiosity, what resistance are you running?
Right now im running a single coil @ 1.7ohms on 28 gauge kanthal for my russian 91. Might try a dual coil later with it though
I looked at the Hana v3 specs and it said minimum voltage is 4. So, If I have a .4 ohm coil at a maximum of 30 watts the voltage is 3.46. Does that mean it wont fire since the voltage is below 4 volts?
Why do the specs say minimum of 4 volts?
Here are the specs On the Hana site PACK V3 Specs
Why do the specs say minimum of 4 volts?
Here are the specs On the Hana site PACK V3 Specs
If your settings require the DNA chip to buck the voltage (step down) below 4 volts, it will still fire. It just won't regulate. What you will get is the voltage straight from the battery. You still get the protection from the board. It's good imho because sub-ohm setups are generally built with a fully charged battery in mind. If you put a 0.3 ohm dual coil dripper on a DNA30 and set it to ANY wattage, you will get the same vape. I can set the device to 10 watts with a 2 ohm Aspire tank and it vapes great. I'll swap the tank out with a 0.3 ohm atty and, without changing the wattage, it hits like I put it on a mech. It's just passing the battery voltage through. You'll know when you are getting "unregulated" voltage because the ohm indicator will flash when firing.
With the DNA devices you have to build a setup that is of higher resistance than what you would normally vape at with a mechanical....that way your mod will actually regulate the vape....that way you can control the wattage better. For example if you normally vape a 1 ohm coil...that means your vaping at 16 watts roughly (a good setup will have a 0.2 voltage drop with a 1 ohm coil). Now lets say you wanted to lower the watts because today you wanted a mellower vape. Well, you wouldn't be able to because the device wouldn't step down below 4 volts...and with a fresh battery you would still get 16 watts. But if you made your coil 1.5 ohms by doing more wraps...you could control the vape because at 4 volts your getting only about 11 watts which is way below what you would be vaping with a mechanical. So when you want a mellower vape you can go down to 11 watts with a fresh battery and of course if you wanted a more intense vape you can go up to 30 watts. This is why I don't understand why people are so hell bent on vaping at the same ohms that they were vaping on a mechanical...it totally defeats the purpose of having a mod that can actually regulate the vape. I have already seen posts that say things like as my battery is dieing I feel like the vape is getting weaker. That is because the mod is not regulating and is basically being used like a mechanical. So whatever your vaping with on mechanical try to make the ohms quite a bit higher so you mod can actually regulate the vape upwards and just as importantly...downwards.
Just wanted to say that XfooYen and EDO gave some great explanations here of something that is very broadly misunderstood, I think, about these mods. I know it helped me too. Thanks!
Yea, I was just got mine and was expecting to blow clouds with my first parallel dual coil sleeper build at .4 but the mod put out such low volts I just had to rip out my perfect first build...lolol so sad. Guess I have to get a mech mod for clouds but I am still new at this. think I will try a 1.5 ohm build.
I just built my first ever regulated (dna 30) device coming from mechs since 2011 and threw my .5ohm 26g dual coil quasar… thing is blowing dense clouds at 17 watts. I was going to build a single coil because I was under the impression that 1.5-1.8ohm builds were best for regulated devices (again I'm new to regulated) but not sure I need to…
What would be the best way to extend battery life on a dna 30? Running lower watts?
What would be the best way to extend battery life on a dna 30? Running lower watts?
That will depend what type of atty use with the mod..
Currently using hana clone/ipv on magma..23w single parallel coil 0.6 and vape like a champ..dual coil is too hot for me to handle
In my opinion..just get some spare battery for standby..battery are pretty light and portable..
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The only way to literally extend battery life would be to run lower watts. Power out directly correlates with battery life. HOWEVER the performance of the coil at a given wattage dictates how much *effective* life you will have. If you have a build with poor responsiveness, it's going effectively eat a lot more battery heating up to operating temp than a build that makes vapor instantly.
I vape at lower wattages because for me it's a better vape and battery life is vastly improved , i have had a VTC5 2600mah going for nearly a week on an iPV 35 watt .
If you look at the STEAM ENGINE CALCULATOR and select cloupor 30w from the dropdown you will see the "sweet spot" is 1.6 ohm for the coil build. I am running around 1.2 ohm and can run from around 12.6W-30W regulated, anything below that it's just direct battery/unregulated. The lower you go in ohms the less regulated watts you will be able to vape so you might as well just use a mechanical mod. And as I understand it the higher ohms to an extent the longer the battery should last because your using less amps to push it.
Incorrect, the load on the battery is determined by wattage output.
Not sure how you can say the first statement is incorrect. It sounds to me like both of you are correct. Battery capacity is measured in amps, and as wattage goes up and/or resistance goes down, amperage draw goes up.
The load on the regulator is not the load on the battery. The regulator is the load on the battery. So whether the regulator puts 20 watts through 1 ohm or 3 ohms, it's still pulling 20 watts from the battery.
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