Best way to seal my 510 connector?

[Quick1]

My 510 connector has started to leak. juice seeps through the seam around the connector. I don't want to tear it apart to replace it if there is any other way. It's been together for about a year and has started leaking recently. Probably due to being torqued and side pressures and the silicon sealing the inside drying and shrinking.

I tried rubberized super glue but it comes off after a while. I tried epoxy with the same results -- seemed to last just a little bit longer. JB Weld different? Could I try tinning/sealing it with solder maybe? Won't stick to the aluminum will it... I don't need any air through the connector. It is completely sealed and part of the bottom of the tank (air holes have epoxy in them)

For the future: What's the best way to seal it (not permanently but almost) when installing a new connector?

 

[Robert T]

I used a seam of Gorilla glue(not epoxy) and let it cure on my SGv3. I had stopped it from leaking from the air tube and it started leaking from the outside of the connector. Now it doesn't leak at all. It might work for you.

Robert

 

[Quick1]

Thanks. I have Gorilla glue. I'll try that.

With everything so far it lasts for a while and then it either breaks loose or it seems that the juice breaks the bond from underneath. Naturally it's occassionally getting torqued from removing and screwing back on (gently) and laterally bumped. I guess that's why the epoxy lasts a little longer -- slightly flexible. If the Gorilla glue doesn't work I'll give it a last ditch attempt with shoe goo . If that doesn't work (sigh) I'll give up, tear it apart, and rebuild it again.

 

[Robert T]

I had the connector out to resolder the wire to the inside of the ce2 tube and I did the solder shim thing but it still leaked. I couldn't believe it! I tried the gorilla glue to see if it would work before I pulled the connector again to JB weld it in. So far, so good......it's been over a month, I think. I should add that my connector is very tight and doesn't move when taking it off or putting it on.

Robert

 

[Quick1]

Yea... this one has a sort of corregated barrel. Helps when pressing it in initially but I think maybe it collapses a bit with repeated side pressures on it. It was very tight initially. Now it will wiggle or turn just a tiny bit if not glued. I can tap it in with a small hammer (with a cap on the threads) but it has a lip and doesn't stay tight. Might try ordering 510 connectors from a couple different places to see if they're made slightly differently.

If I had just used flexible stranded wire it wouldn't be such a big deal but I had to get all fancy with 14 gauge solid silver wire for the leads. Has to be shaped just right and perfect length and forms the posts for the coil on the other end... o well, it lasted about a year.

 

[Dieseler]

I dont know if JB weld is toxic or anything but that stuff is tough as nails.
My cars oil pan got punctured about 5 years back and i drain the oil and wipe everything clean and put some jb weld on it and its been holding since.

 

[Quick1]

I believe JB weld is food safe after it cures.

 

[Gummy Bear]

I called JB Weld a year ago and asked them. I told them what it was being used for and their product engineer told me that it was food safe after it sets. I have used it before in fully submerged applications and it holds up to the juice and doesn't add a funky taste.

 

[Teach]

From the J-B Weld site

Like metal, J-B WELD can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined, filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 30 minutes after mixing, sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hours. It's water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands temperatures up to 500° F. J-B WELD is super strong, non-toxic, and safe to use. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water.

 

[Quick1]

I sealed it with J-B Weld from the outside and so far it's holding really well.