BF Mods by Custom-Classic

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Nautilusfan

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May have to increase those meds Bob ;)
 

TheKiwi

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Ugh. Every time I convince myself "June ain't too far off", Corey posts more finished mods and I'm back to revisiting my idea of breaking into his workshop to stencil my name on a block.

Yes.... Hypothetically of course... Yes.... [emoji19][emoji19][emoji19]


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rudy4653

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rudy4653

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So.. I got a sample wrap from Jwrap ( thanks to Beck) and applied so I could give you all an idea what they look like applied to the CC.
For those of you that are OCD and want to protect against scratches etc. I would say it would definitely serve that purpose. The application was pretty easy and the fit is pretty good. The squonk hole was the only area that shows a little gap. I left the cap strip off for a little contrast. The vinyl is fairly thick so can be peeled off and reapplied providing you don't stretch it to much after taking off.
I love the smooth feel of the bare aluminum so probably will take it off for now and perhaps reapply in the winter for a little insulation in the cold weather.
I will say it does look rather sharp all dress up for a black tie soiree!! :2cool:
 

rudy4653

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Will JWraps be selling wraps for the CC mod? I wouldn't mind trying a clear wrap over a brass CC mod. I have a clear wrap on my tumbled aluminum Reo and it's literally invisible and has protected this Grand very well.

Yes, Beck sent his CC to them to create. They now have the specs so I think you just need to pick out a pattern and tell them it's for a CC mod.
 

custom-classic

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Lookin' good, Rudy! :toast:

Hey, real quick..... I put together a little note that I'll be printing and sending out with all future mods. In the interests of keeping it all on one sheet, I kept it short and to the point. I'll post it here so those of you that already have your mods can have a copy of it, as well.... Lemme know what you think.....


Just a quick note to provide some information about your new mod.


Let’s start off by discussing what’s in the little bag of parts. You’ll find one large o-ring in there. This one is to be installed on top of your battery, once the battery is installed. It’s not absolutely necessary, but it keeps the battery from moving around in there.


The two smaller o-rings can be installed under your atomizer, to create a seal between the bottom of the atty and the top of the mod. One is a little thicker than the other, so just use the one that works best for your atty. Again, not absolutely necessary, but I like to use one there.


The small pieces of tubing are spare positive contact insulators. I install a piece of heat shrink tubing on the contact, then put a piece of silicone tubing over that. That is the part that is replaceable. You may never need to change it, but it’s there in case you do.


And, of course, there’s the extra bottle and tube assembly. Pretty self explanatory. I do install an o-ring inside the bottle cap to insure no leaking around the cap.


The stainless 510 is adjustable, both up and down. Since there’s no real standard in the industry, at the moment, it may be necessary to adjust it, so that your atty sits the way you want it to, on the mod.


If your atty is bottoming out in the 510, but it is sitting higher than you’d like, you will have to lower the 510 pin to allow the atty to sit lower. This can be accomplished by loosening the little brass nut that is just above the feed tube, on the underside of the cap. Once the nut is loose, you can lower the white delrin insulator that the pin is threaded into, by turning it counterclockwise. Now install your atty, at the height and orientation that you like, then bring the insulator back up until it is tight, by turning it clockwise. you may want to back the atty off just a little, and tighten the insulator just a bit more. That way, when you tighten the atty down tight, it’ll be where you want it. When you go to retighten the little brass nut, make sure the positive contact is centered on the underside of the fire button.


If your atty is threading all the way in, to where it is sitting flush with the top of the mod, but still not making contact with the pin, it will be necessary to raise the pin. This can be accomplished by loosening the little brass nut that is just above the feed tube, on the underside of the cap. Once it’s loose, you can use a screwdriver inside the 510 from the top side, and turn it counterclockwise to raise it up. You will need to raise it a little, then check it by reinstalling the atty. Do this as many times as is necessary to get the atty sitting just the way you want, and making good contact. Once you have it like you like it, retighten the little brass nut, making sure the positive contact is centered on the underside of the fire button.


If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask......
 

super_X_drifter

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Man I'm just thinking that wrapping these beauties in a wrap is like putting a plastic cover on a leather sofa. I just got those grey / brownish 3m pads and they give it a perfectly new brushed look. Ill take a pic later.

A burka on Sofia Vergara when you can just wipe her down :shock:
 

rudy4653

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Lookin' good, Rudy! :toast:

Hey, real quick..... I put together a little note that I'll be printing and sending out with all future mods. In the interests of keeping it all on one sheet, I kept it short and to the point. I'll post it here so those of you that already have your mods can have a copy of it, as well.... Lemme know what you think.....


Just a quick note to provide some information about your new mod.


Let’s start off by discussing what’s in the little bag of parts. You’ll find one large o-ring in there. This one is to be installed on top of your battery, once the battery is installed. It’s not absolutely necessary, but it keeps the battery from moving around in there.


The two smaller o-rings can be installed under your atomizer, to create a seal between the bottom of the atty and the top of the mod. One is a little thicker than the other, so just use the one that works best for your atty. Again, not absolutely necessary, but I like to use one there.


The small pieces of tubing are spare positive contact insulators. I install a piece of heat shrink tubing on the contact, then put a piece of silicone tubing over that. That is the part that is replaceable. You may never need to change it, but it’s there in case you do.


And, of course, there’s the extra bottle and tube assembly. Pretty self explanatory. I do install an o-ring inside the bottle cap to insure no leaking around the cap.


The stainless 510 is adjustable, both up and down. Since there’s no real standard in the industry, at the moment, it may be necessary to adjust it, so that your atty sits the way you want it to, on the mod.


If your atty is bottoming out in the 510, but it is sitting higher than you’d like, you will have to lower the 510 pin to allow the atty to sit lower. This can be accomplished by loosening the little brass nut that is just above the feed tube, on the underside of the cap. Once the nut is loose, you can lower the white delrin insulator that the pin is threaded into, by turning it counterclockwise. Now install your atty, at the height and orientation that you like, then bring the insulator back up until it is tight, by turning it clockwise. you may want to back the atty off just a little, and tighten the insulator just a bit more. That way, when you tighten the atty down tight, it’ll be where you want it. When you go to retighten the little brass nut, make sure the positive contact is centered on the underside of the fire button.


If your atty is threading all the way in, to where it is sitting flush with the top of the mod, but still not making contact with the pin, it will be necessary to raise the pin. This can be accomplished by loosening the little brass nut that is just above the feed tube, on the underside of the cap. Once it’s loose, you can use a screwdriver inside the 510 from the top side, and turn it counterclockwise to raise it up. You will need to raise it a little, then check it by reinstalling the atty. Do this as many times as is necessary to get the atty sitting just the way you want, and making good contact. Once you have it like you like it, retighten the little brass nut, making sure the positive contact is centered on the underside of the fire button.


If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask......


:thumb:
 
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