BF Mods by Custom-Classic

[custom-classic]

That's good stuff, right there...

I still can't get an answer out of my machinist on Ti...

He doesn't wanna jack with it. I don't blame him... I asked again 2 days ago. He's suppose to get back with me.... He can't very well avoid me,...he's gonna wanna bring me the copper and collect his money, in the VERY near future...

Cannot believe I've got one of these beauties in the works! Having only stumbled across this forum last week, and reading through the first half of it. Thought it'd be months from now before I'd get my hands on one. Corey is definitely on top of his game...product and customer service are second to none, not that I need to tell y'all!

Thank you, KB! Won't be long now, my friend!

 

[Nautilusfan]

I'm all about the exotic metals.....but.....like most things in life there are always trade offs. I've been fortunate enough to get lots of help and advice from some very knowledgeable folks. People with far better understanding of metal types and characteristics than I could ever hope to learn. Although I'd love to have a titanium CC and will if Corey decides to do one there are concerns about lower conductivity. Probably won't make a huge difference but.....
As most of you know I have a 7068 which is always with me. I use this mod hard every day and it's held up very well. Better conductivity and 80% the strength of Titanium
Maybe not quite the "cool" factor but still very cool!!
Originally developed for the ordinance industry and not even available to the general public for several years. Truly DOD secret shiete at one time

 

[Henry Etta]

I'm all about the exotic metals.....but.....like most things in life there are always trade offs. I've been fortunate enough to get lots of help and advice from some very knowledgeable folks. People with far better understanding of metal types and characteristics than I could ever hope to learn. Although I'd love to have a titanium CC and will if Corey decides to do one there are concerns about lower conductivity. Probably won't make a huge difference but.....
As most of you know I have a 7068 which is always with me. I use this mod hard every day and it's held up very well. Better conductivity and 80% the strength of Titanium
Maybe not quite the "cool" factor but still very cool!!
Originally developed for the ordinance industry and not even available to the general public for several years. Truly DOD secret shiete at one time

Does it patina, or is it oxidize? the same as 6061? I loooove my cc, it's the only mod I use right now-- the only issue is having to clean it up 2x a week.

 

[Nautilusfan]

Does it patina, or is it oxidize? the same as 6061? I loooove my cc, it's the only mod I use right now-- the only issue is having to clean it up 2x a week.

Any aluminum will have some discoloration with use. My CC's are 7075 and 7068 so I don't have any experience with 6061. I don't see a lot of difference between 7075 and 7068 but patina has never really been an issue with mine. I think it has a lot to do with the chemistry we each produce and that varies widely that being said I don't clean either of mine until the minor scratches get to a point that the Bear tex comes out That's when any patina is removed also.

 

[TheKiwi]

I was wondering if anyone could help me with this: recently my cc has sort of been a little temperamental. It would fire strongly one moment, and just not work the next.

I've ensure that all connections around the 510 is solid, and that my atty is making good connection:

Atty is snug and bottomed out, with no oring

With oring

I'm stumped.


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[B2L]

I was wondering if anyone could help me with this: recently my cc has sort of been a little temperamental. It would fire strongly one moment, and just not work the next.

I've ensure that all connections around the 510 is solid, and that my atty is making good connection:

Atty is snug and bottomed out, with no oring

With oring

I'm stumped.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I get that occasionally on my 7075, there are 3 things I would recommend.

1- Get a 5000 grit automotive sanding pad (available at any auto parts store) and hit the silver contact where it makes contact with the battery then wipe it down with alcohol. You can see the little carbonization/black spot starting there in your pic. Thanks to Russ for that tip.

2- I take off the bottle and remove the positive contact and its two washers, give them a little rub down with a watery paste made from white vinegar and baking soda, then wipe down with alcohol. Also take some of the paste and clean up the 510 pin the same way then reassemble. A little noalox or deoxit gold in this area (used sparingly) helps.

3- I take a q-tip dipped in alcohol and clean the top cap and body surfaces where they meet and apply noalox (or deoxit, I like noalox on the aluminum) sparingly on each surface.

That should cure what ails ya. Sometimes a simple swing the positive contact out and recenter it will do the trick.

That's what I love about mechs, it's all about the flow of current. Just follow the current path and as long as any contact surface is clean and in contact, the current will flow.

 

[TheKiwi]

I get that occasionally on my 7075, there are 3 things I would recommend.

1- Get a 5000 grit automotive sanding pad (available at any auto parts store) and hit the silver contact where it makes contact with the button then wipe it down with alcohol. You can see the little carbonization/black spot starting there in your pic. Thanks to Russ for that tip.

2- I take off the bottle and remove the positive contact and its two washers, give them a little rub down with a watery paste made from white vinegar and baking soda, then wipe down with alcohol. Also take some of the paste and clean up the 510 pin the same way then reassemble. A little noalox or deoxit gold in this area (used sparingly) helps.

3- I take a q-tip dipped in alcohol and clean the top cap and body surfaces where they meet and apply noalox (or deoxit, I like noalox on the aluminum) sparingly on each surface.

That should cure what ails ya. Sometimes a simple swing the positive contact out and recenter it will do the trick.

That's what I love about mechs, it's all about the flow of current. Just follow the current path and as long as any contact surface is clean and in contact, the current will flow.

I'd just done 2) and 3) last weekend, so I'll give 1) a shot. Relieved to know its not just me.

Is the positive contact a silver plated copper? I'm a little concerned about wearing it out if it is. But yeah there is a significant carbon spot


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[Sloth Tonight]

Nice asss, S

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I'd just done 2) and 3) last weekend, so I'll give 1) a shot. Relieved to know its not just me.

Is the positive contact a silver plated copper? I'm a little concerned about wearing it out if it is. But yeah there is a significant carbon spot


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It's not plated so no worries. It's just silver

 

[custom-classic]

Thanks, B! Good recommendations.

And, thanks, Sloth. Indeed, the positive contact is solid silver, not plated. You can sand it down as many times as you want. I suspect cleaning the underside of the cap, and top of the body, then applying some deoxit, no-ox-id, or noalox, to the top rim of the body, and under the cap, will help. As B said, it's all about metal to metal contact. As long as the surfaces are clean, and free of oxidation, there's nothing to stop the electrons from flowing freely.

 

[inswva]

*sigh*

Copper CC is so close, yet so far away. Had it arrived at the regional hub a few hours earlier, I'd have it in my PO box today. Tomorrow it is...

 

[EddieAdams]

Hold on. I don't claim to know but, from what I've mostly read I thought sanding contacts was a "no-no"? Created more arcing....

 

[inswva]

Hold on. I don't claim to know but, from what I've mostly read I thought sanding contacts was a "no-no"? Created more arcing....

I think that's a REO thing.

 

[custom-classic]

Indeed! When contacts are plated, you don't wanna sand on 'em. On these, the positive contact is solid silver, the negative is solid brass, so light sanding is perfectly fine. You do wanna make sure you leave the surface of the contacts as smooth as possible, though.

 

[Rossum]

I use polishing paste (Simichrome) on the contacts. I have yet find the need for anything more aggressive. Then again, I don't run real low resistance coils either; I currently have 0.5 duals in the Nuppin and a 0.7 single in the O16.

 

[B2L]

I just went back and re read my post, it should have read sand the contact where it makes contact with the battery, not the button

I shouldn't give recommendations before enough coffee

Post edited.

As far as sanding the contact, you definitely don't want to do that to any plated contact, like the REO, but Corey has melted down all his wife's sterling to make our contacts, they are solid so you don't have to worry about wearing through plating. The 5000 grit automotive pads are such a fine grit it's really more akin to polishing than sanding when you use them.

 

[inswva]

*sigh*

Copper CC is so close, yet so far away. Had it arrived at the regional hub a few hours earlier, I'd have it in my PO box today. Tomorrow it is...

Self quote FTW! Well, USPS surprised me...

Expect some lunch break pics!

 

[BobC]

So first I think "I gotta get a Brassy", then I hear Corey's got copper. So then I think "Well, I NEED a copper CC!" Then he mentions stainless and I'm all about having one of those. Now there's some 7068 available?!?! 2nd mortgage here I come?

Don't forget the Titanium!

 

[EddieAdams]

Titanium would interest me down the road. For now, more than happy with 7075...

 

[custom-classic]

Self quote FTW! Well, USPS surprised me...

Expect some lunch break pics!

Woohoo!

Can't wait for the PO parking lot pics!!!

Also,....I think Peng might owe me a dollar.

 

[inswva]

Woohoo!

Can't wait for the PO parking lot pics!!!

Also,....I think Peng might owe me a dollar.

I sure hope Peng gets the hookup today!