BF Mods by Custom-Classic

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beckdg

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1- Get a 5000 grit automotive sanding pad (available at any auto parts store) and hit the silver contact where it makes contact with the battery then wipe it down with alcohol. You can see the little carbonization/black spot starting there in your pic. Thanks to Russ for that tip.

NOOOOOOOOO!!!

Use a soft, white pencil eraser to polish and buff silver.

Tapatyped
 

beckdg

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:sniff:

Beautiful

<wipes tear from eye>

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TheKiwi

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NOOOOOOOOO!!!

Use a soft, white pencil eraser to polish and buff silver.

Tapatyped

This works extremely well actually. Just tried it.

But in my case, the carbonization is actually quite serious, and that spot is more of a little pit now. This was in spite of me applying deoxit gold quite frequently. My plan is to sand it slightly with the 5000 grit sandpaper to smoothen it out.

After that, I think for best practice, don't be lazy like me and wait until there's "issues" before cleaning the positive contact. Be semi-diligent about it and a soft white eraser will suffice.

I've also got down to paying 40 bucks to get no-ox-id shipped to Singapore. I'm hoping that it reduces the amount of maintenance I need to perform on my positive contact. I personally don't run super low builds. In fact I've gone up from 0.4 ohms to 0.5 ohms on my cc.

Oh why the hell did I think it was a good idea to take up a job in Singapore. Face palm


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penguiness

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This works extremely well actually. Just tried it.

But in my case, the carbonization is actually quite serious, and that spot is more of a little pit now. This was in spite of me applying deoxit gold quite frequently. My plan is to sand it slightly with the 5000 grit sandpaper to smoothen it out.

After that, I think for best practice, don't be lazy like me and wait until there's "issues" before cleaning the positive contact. Be semi-diligent about it and a soft white eraser will suffice.

I've also got down to paying 40 bucks to get no-ox-id shipped to Singapore. I'm hoping that it reduces the amount of maintenance I need to perform on my positive contact. I personally don't run super low builds. In fact I've gone up from 0.4 ohms to 0.5 ohms on my cc.

Oh why the hell did I think it was a good idea to take up a job in Singapore. Face palm


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Goodness. Hopefully you got a bunch of other stuff coming in that same box to make the $40 a little more worthwhile...
 

custom-classic

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Yeah,...I need to figure out my next move.....

I'll be neck deep in copper for the next few weeks, and while that's goin' on, I'd like to do that run of 7068... Right now I only have one 7075 cap and body sitting on the shelf, and I'm down to 8 brassies...

Of course, there's the spare parts I told folks I'd make, once I got caught up, as well...

Not too sure when any prototyping is gonna be feasible... I'm sure it'll happen, though...



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Henry Etta

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No maintenance whatsoever except electrical contact points.

Well...

And you could bash in an Al, a brass and a Cu mod... then vape to your hearts content.

Strength to weight ratio isn't the same as strength to size by any stretch of the imagination.

Tapatyped

Ok, but what does that mean? Wouldn't an ss cc be almost 3x heavier than the Al?
I don't know much about metal... I love the idea of no maintenance, and stronger is fine, too. The thing about titanium is how dang light it is... for me, anyway.
Also, still very much in love :wub: and enjoying a tasty beverage. My two favorite things!!
download (6).jpg
 

Rossum

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Wouldn't an ss cc be almost 3x heavier than the Al?
Yes, but marginally lighter than brass or copper.

Density in grams per cubic centimeter (and ratio to aluminum):
Aluminum: 2.7
Titanium: 4.5 (1.6x)
Stainless Steel: 7.5 - 8.0 (~2.9x)
Brass: 8.4 - 8.5 (3.1x)
Copper: 9.0 (3.3x)
Silver: 10.5 (3.9x)
 

EddieAdams

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"Titanium is not a good conductor of electricity. If the conductivity of copper is considered to be 100%, titanium would have a conductivity of 3.1%. From this it follows that titanium would not be used where good conductivity is a prime factor. For comparison, stainless steel has a conductivity of 3.5% and aluminum has a conductivity of 30%."

If the difference in conductivity of SS and Titanium boils down to .4% difference...

Titanium all day....

Also,I would think the very short distance electricity has to travel in our mods would be a factor as well....
 

beckdg

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Ok, but what does that mean? Wouldn't an ss cc be almost 3x heavier than the Al?
I don't know much about metal... I love the idea of no maintenance, and stronger is fine, too. The thing about titanium is how dang light it is... for me, anyway.
Also, still very much in love :wub: and enjoying a tasty beverage. My two favorite things!!
View attachment 526213

Meaning material A may be 1.5 times as strong by weight as material B. But the same weight, material A may take up 3.5 times the volume as material B.

This means with the same dimensions, material B would be 2.33 times the strength at the expense of 3.5 times the weight of material A.

I don't know exact numbers off hand, and I'm not looking up a dozen different compounds to check. But I am confident steel is stronger than aluminum and titanium.

SS, for me, would make for a CC I could take everywhere, immediately. Something I'd be proud to call a deadly weapon of defense whenever not being questioned by the police.

Your priorities may differ.

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Rossum

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"Titanium is not a good conductor of electricity. If the conductivity of copper is considered to be 100%, titanium would have a conductivity of 3.1%. From this it follows that titanium would not be used where good conductivity is a prime factor. For comparison, stainless steel has a conductivity of 3.5% and aluminum has a conductivity of 30%."

If the difference in conductivity of SS and Titanium boils down to .4% difference...

Titanium all day....

Also,I would think the very short distance electricity has to travel in our mods would be a factor as well....
I've said this before: The body of the mod has a very high cross-sectional area and therefore the conductivity of the material it's made from isn't very important. What's critical are the contact points -- and that includes the interface between the main body and the top-cap.
 
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