BF Mods by Custom-Classic

[B2L]

You golf?

I've thought about leaving. Business really wouldn't allow that. Between the ridiculous taxes, cost of living, traffic, meatheads, pretentious DB's "born on 3rd base acting like they hit a "triple"...it wears on you.

There's a bunch of reasons to leave. Just as many to stay though. Beaches, top ranked beach in the country actually. Fishing. Proximity to Queens, Brooklyn, Manhattan. Upstate isn't far to visit Sloth country. The north fork wine country. Hamptons and Montauk. Pizza, bagels, EGG Sandwiches. You can get the most authentic whatever type food there is somewhere within an hour's drive.

Sorry Corey...blabbing so much off topic..

The only golf I play involves a castle or a clowns mouth

We left LI when I was a junior in HS. Loved skipping first period and hitting the bagel shop as soon as they were out of the oven. I miss a good knish too, can't find them around here

 

[Aal_]

I am right around .3 and i have not been able to keep that damn spot out either. I have been applying a tiny dab of no-ox id on the positive were the spot would appear. I still get it after a few days.

Like b2L i use a abrasive foam sheet by 3m. Not sure of the grit...its model p3000 so possibly 3000? Since its foam it gives to the shape of the contact and no need to press super hard. After that I buff on a heavy paper stock with some "tooth" to it. Im my case i use a door hanger from my bosses business. It has a bit more tooth than a note card.

At this point you can do your mirror polish. During battery changes you can give a few swipes on your paper material and that may help keep the black away for a bit longer....but in my experience it is inevitable.

Now I hope someone chimes in with the cure!

I will also add that I have heavy pitting on my batteries used on the CCs. Not sure if its a no-ox-id thing, button masher thing, or just normal....

It's good I'm not the only one. I'm really afraid to put any kind of abrasive other than chemical. I ruined a peko pin that way and couldn't bring back the shine.

On the little black spot on the contact, there is anecdotal evidence out there that suggests that the positive and negative contact, both being the same material (silver), reduces such things. I'm last on the silver contact list, so I haven't got a chance to test that theory, myself... I still have brass negatives in both of mine....

It would be ideal if the battery positive and negative were silver, as well. I don't see any battery manufacturers ever doing that, unfortunately....

But, yes,... 3-5k grit sandpaper, polishing wheel on a dremmel/drill, if you have it, would be a nice touch, though not necessary... followed by deoxit, no-ox-id, or similar, will slow it down. Giving your batteries the same treatment will help, also.

At .5ohms, it's hasn't been much of an issue for me, but I know that down below that, it happens more quickly. I sometimes go a couple months before doing any contact maintenance on mine. I don't notice any real change in performance, with or without the little black spot, but at lower ohms, I would imagine it might be something you'd wanna tend to more often....

Corey, I'm sure with any power tool it would take it right off with even a very soft cloth and basic polishing compound. My issue is the black spots happens after 1 day of vaping! Believe it or not. 0.3 ohms and vaping all day (I deplete a hg2 battery in half a day) and I get the black spot daily . I can't dremel this thing on a daily basis

At .3, I noticed it a lot and the black spot would definitely hamper performance - but even up at .4 I notice less maintenance/less issue from the black spot. Up around .6/.8 it's almost a non-issue completely. I'm at .4 these days and I haven't sanded my contacts in 2 weeks or so but I do wipe them with a tissue each battery change just to help keep it at bay.

No amount of wiping is working with me since it happens on a daily basis.

I remove the black spot with a pencil eraser every few battery changes. I compare a high performance kick azz mod to a hot rod. Both will require more maintenance than their lower performing counterparts. It's the price of ownership IMO.

Pencil eraser works up to a limit. 2 puffs later back to square one

That's about where I'm at as well. Around 0.5R, the spot shows up, but doesn't seem to get too bad too quickly. I use the red Deoxit on both +/- and it seems to slow it's growth a bit, but I haven't ever really gotten it to totally disappear.

When I clean it off, I've only been using a super super fine Emery stick that I got from one of the Peko parts vendors. Surface gets shiny, but there is a "stain" where the spot was. I guess sanding away would get rid of it, but it seems to work fine regardless.


Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.

Hey buddy, I use deoxit gold but I have the red one. Haven't tried it yet. The gold one is a joke for black spots. It really cannot prevent it. Although it prevents any other kind of oxidation, not dissing the product, I like it.

If I may make a suggestion.

When "sanding" your contacts clean don't attempt to restore their original convex shape.

Allow them to flatten out a bit across your mark so they make contact over a larger area.

Over time this should make for a larger contact patch for current flow and somewhat alleviate the issue resulting in less maintenance needed.

Tapatyped

That would work yes, but not gonna try that as won't risk ruining my pins so far away from Corey

Or do what Rossum (I think it was him. My mind is getting old these days) does: simichrome polish seems to work ridiculously well

I run mine at 0.4 ohms. When I first got my cc, I didn't do anything aside from applying deoxit gold. 1 month of daily use there was a fat black spot and it fired inconsistently.

Since then, I'll been using a 5000 grit sandpaper to polish the dark spot away completely, then apply a solid dose of no-ox-Id every 2 weeks. Been firing like a champ.

I actually much prefer no-ox-Id. It's more viscous and substantial, and stays on the contact better. Keeps it tarnish free longer too. With deoxit gold, it applies in really thin and wears out quickly. Just IMO.

I would use simichrome if not for the fact that I'm stuck in Singapore, and it costs me 50 bucks to get it mailed to me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rossum is a joke, he doesn't know anything


That aside I don't think any chemical would remove this spot. I'm getting a mirror shine pin like Rossum ' s but the black spot stays.




Thanks a lot guys you are all great!


(I know BobC tried to help me once by saying to level my pin. That was on a peko as well. But also he's a weak vaper[emoji14]. Hi Bob where are u man?)

 

[beckdg]

It's good I'm not the only one. I'm really afraid to put any kind of abrasive other than chemical. I ruined a peko pin that way and couldn't bring back the shine.



Corey, I'm sure with any power tool it would take it right off with even a very soft cloth and basic polishing compound. My issue is the black spots happens after 1 day of vaping! Believe it or not. 0.3 ohms and vaping all day (I deplete a hg2 battery in half a day) and I get the black spot daily . I can't dremel this thing on a daily basis




No amount of wiping is working with me since it happens on a daily basis.




Pencil eraser works up to a limit. 2 puffs later back to square one



Hey buddy, I use deoxit gold but I have the red one. Haven't tried it yet. The gold one is a joke for black spots. It really cannot prevent it. Although it prevents any other kind of oxidation, not dissing the product, I like it.



That would work yes, but not gonna try that as won't risk ruining my pins so far away from Corey



Rossum is a joke, he doesn't know anything


That aside I don't think any chemical would remove this spot. I'm getting a mirror shine pin like Rossum ' s but the black spot stays.




Thanks a lot guys you are all great!


(I know BobC tried to help me once by saying to level my pin. That was on a peko as well. But also he's a weak vaper[emoji14]. Hi Bob where are u man?)

I Vape 0.2 ohm to 0.18 ohm exclusively.

And somehow not experiencing issues as bad as yours.

On 6 mods...

But if you're going to "polish" anyway, just focus on the spot. The rest of the contact is useless to you. Eventually it will get easier.

Tapatyped

 

[Aal_]

I Vape 0.2 ohm to 0.18 ohm exclusively.

And somehow not experiencing issues as bad as yours.

On 6 mods...

But if you're going to "polish" anyway, just focus on the spot. The rest of the contact is useless to you. Eventually it will get easier.

Tapatyped

Yeah maybe you are focusing on larger area of contact. Or I'm just unlucky and my area of contact is always so small. Thanks beck.

 

[Gigdujour]

LOL "Sloth Country"
Should be the name of a movie

I'll wager that they have pudding there [emoji6]

 

[artv61]

not to but in but are you folks cleaning battery top off real well too because oils and such on contact point will burn that spot on there too. I beleive it has to do with electron flow in the circuit. just my 2cents.

 

[Sloth Tonight]

I'll wager that they have pudding there [emoji6]

 

[beckdg]

Yeah maybe you are focusing on larger area of contact. Or I'm just unlucky and my area of contact is always so small. Thanks beck.

Actually, a bunch of my contacts only touch on the very end because they're on my REOs.

Here's the one I use primarily...

My contact area is but a dot like yours.

Tapatyped

 

[beckdg]

not to but in but are you folks cleaning battery top off real well too because oils and such on contact point will burn that spot on there too. I beleive it has to do with electron flow in the circuit. just my 2cents.

Good point.

Tapatyped

 

[Aal_]

not to but in but are you folks cleaning battery top off real well too because oils and such on contact point will burn that spot on there too. I beleive it has to do with electron flow in the circuit. just my 2cents.

Yep but always too late. All my batteries have this either black dot or black circle. Sometimes you are too lazy to clean things daily. And you pay the price [emoji31]

 

[Aal_]

Actually, a bunch of my contacts only touch on the very end because they're on my REOs.

Here's the one I use primarily...

My contact area is but a dot like yours.

Tapatyped

I saw you mention those being done by Corey. I should thing about it as I have 3 metal reos and 1 woodvil. With the fuse mod at the bottom my positive contacts are the bottleneck.

 

[beckdg]

I saw you mention those being done by Corey. I should thing about it as I have 3 metal reos and 1 woodvil. With the fuse mod at the bottom my positive contacts are the bottleneck.

I hate to break it to you, but your fuse mod is also a bottleneck. Just not as bad as your positive contacts.

I can forward you instructions on my mod before Coreys contacts. Just ignore the positive copper bar contact, focus on the negative contact and get new contacts from Corey for your positives on your grands.

Unfortunately, I'm no help for other REO models though. Never had or really wanted other than the grands.

Tapatyped

 

[Alexander Mundy]

The black spot is silver sulfide. It mainly depends on environmental conditions, contact alloy, and to a lesser degree the amperage. Higher humidity and higher concentrations of atmospheric sulfur in various forms (SO2 & H2S being the main contributors) increase the formation of the sulfide. Our voltages are normally too small (and are resistive instead of reactive) for sufficient arcing to occur to clean off the sulfide (<10V threshold but depends on the contact alloy) and there is little "wiping" (a built in angle on relays and contactors that cause one contact to wipe the other slightly to help mechanically remove sulfide) and also I suspect the metal alloy of the battery top contributes. Short of electrolysis removal (PITA) it will have to be removed mechanically. From what I have researched previously, once it forms past 150 to 200 uM in depth it will adversely affect performance and be tougher to remove. I keep silver contacts clean with card stock or an eraser, but don't have bad buildup fast so I do not apply anything to the contacts and can't help to recommend any particular product. Some in the industry have mentioned soaking the card stock with WD40 helps with removal, but you must remove any oil residue with alcohol, Acetone, or similar solvent. Carbon tetrachloride is known to do a very good job at removal, but as anyone that has used Carbontet in the past knows it is a very noxious chemical and was removed from all commercially available products. Below are pics of minor buildup. Second pic is after using a commercially available electronic contact cleaner. Third is after use of a pencil eraser. Without the Carbontet the cleaner did some good, but not where the layer had built up too much at the contact point. I don't have any anymore, but I can almost guarantee it would have removed all of it with just a wipe of a cloth. However it is not available except in industry and science and is highly toxic so don't go there kids.

 

[Aal_]

The black spot is silver sulfide. It mainly depends on environmental conditions, contact alloy, and to a lesser degree the amperage. Higher humidity and higher concentrations of atmospheric sulfur in various forms (SO2 & H2S being the main contributors) increase the formation of the sulfide. Our voltages are normally too small (and are resistive instead of reactive) for sufficient arcing to occur to clean off the sulfide (<10V threshold but depends on the contact alloy) and there is little "wiping" (a built in angle on relays and contactors that cause one contact to wipe the other slightly to help mechanically remove sulfide) and also I suspect the metal alloy of the battery top contributes. Short of electrolysis removal (PITA) it will have to be removed mechanically. From what I have researched previously, once it forms past 150 to 200 uM in depth it will adversely affect performance and be tougher to remove. I keep silver contacts clean with card stock or an eraser, but don't have bad buildup fast so I do not apply anything to the contacts and can't help to recommend any particular product. Some in the industry have mentioned soaking the card stock with WD40 helps with removal, but you must remove any oil residue with alcohol, Acetone, or similar solvent. Carbon tetrachloride is known to do a very good job at removal, but as anyone that has used Carbontet in the past knows it is a very noxious chemical and was removed from all commercially available products. Below are pics of minor buildup. Second pic is after using a commercially available electronic contact cleaner. Third is after use of a pencil eraser. Without the Carbontet the cleaner did some good, but not where the layer had built up too much at the contact point. I don't have any anymore, but I can almost guarantee it would have removed all of it with just a wipe of a cloth. However it is not available except in industry and science and is highly toxic so don't go there kids.

Thanks mundy good info there. On brass I have the same thing. So is it the same reaction and has the same properties?

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Aal, to be perfectly honest I did not know the answer to the brass question as my research involved silver and silver alloys as they are most used in electrical contacts. However a quick googlefu turned up this academic reference which would indicate the answer to your question is yes. (bear in mind brass is a copper alloy)

 

[IanA]

I use this stuff on all my mech mods - great stuff

SUPER 10 is a highly efficient switch and contact cleaner. It offers a combination of high purity electrical cleaning and mechanical lubrications for contacts, switches and relays.
APPLICATIONS
Removes grease, tarnish, oxidisation and other contamination from contact surfaces and leaves a protective conductive lubricating film.
Cuts voltage drop between contacts by increasing the surface area and reducing resistance. The residual film resists drying and the attraction of dust. Eliminates contact bounce and stops the damage which can be caused by arcing between contacts. Improves the current flow and protects against friction.
Apply directly onto the components to be treated. Do not use on live electrical equipment. After spraying, always leave for at least 4/5 minutes to allow dispersal of solvent vapours, before operating the equipment.

 

[Tria]

Well,..... I think I'm finally ready to go public with these babies...
I've been building them for a few months now. Building, testing, building some more,..... more testing...
I've sent a few out already, and have had really good feedback.

Right off the bat,... I wanna just mention that these mods are inspired by a mod that I purchased over a year ago from a true artisan. He makes the finest wood bf mods on the planet, imho...

Sadly, I had to sell that mod a while back. It was far too nice a mod for a bull in a china closet, like myself...
Ever since, I've wanted one like it made of metal. I took matters into my own hands, and finally succeeded in making, what I consider to be,.... the perfect bottom feeder, for me...

There's been a lot of interest along the way from folks around here, for me to make these available to the public.

So,... after giving it a lot of thought,... and contacting the aforementioned mod maker, to obtain his blessing for a healthy borrowing from his design, I decided to make a few to sell.

A big thank you to Peter for not only designing the end-loading bottom feeder, but for also being gracious enough to allow me to borrow from his design.


Just to be clear,... I make these in my spare time. I have a full time job that has been working me 60+ hours per week for a while now. I'm hoping things will let up soon to allow me more time to focus on the mod making... Until then, I'll just keep pluggin' away, making as many as I can, when I can...

With my current setup, these take many hours to complete. Given that my time is currently very limited,... for the moment,... I'm offering them in 6061 aluminum or brass, in a lightly brushed finish only. More finishes will be available down the road...

Also, I'll never ask anyone for any money until their mod is complete and ready to ship. Just shoot me a pm telling me you want one. I'll add you to the list, then we can discuss options, time frames and such...

The aluminum mods are $400
The brass mods are $450

I'll check in at least once a day to answer questions and give updates, if there are any...

Thanks!

CC

Hey im ready to buy from yoo
What do i do ?
How long do i have to wait ?
Do you dillever to denmark ?

Im realy interestet in the device

Email: omar-tria@hotmail.com

 

[custom-classic]

Hey, Tria!

I sent you a pm (conversation).....

Of course, I'd be happy to build you a mod and ship it to Denmark!

 

[custom-classic]

Mundy is a wealth of electrical knowledge.

We're lucky to have him here.

I'm interested in the stuff you posted, Ian. I'ma hafta check into that.

 

[pdib]

@Aal_

hmmm . . . it appears that dimethylsulphide is produced by planktonic algae in sea water (which oxidizes in the atmosphere to form a sulphate aerosol).

So, let's call it "saltwater blackspot", shall we?

. . .. or see if anyone's been hangin' around here with plankton on their shoes . .. .

(I know, Aal_, I know . . . you don't live near the ocean, . .. . in Greece . .. . but then maybe it's smog-related-Greek-citymouse-blackspot)