I like the Derringer with dual 26g NiChrome, 7 wraps, 2mm ID, with rayon.
I will try that. I quit using it because it spits like crazy.
BF Mods by Custom-Classic
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I will try that. I quit using it because it spits like crazy.
Corey, do you have a delay start lock out relay on that outside unit? If not I would check all the power connections in the unit and disconnect and at the breaker. A quick momentary loss of power while the compressor is under load will cause an enormous start load that can weaken and eventually kill the start capacitor and or relay. It's also not good on the windings inside and can lead to melted enamel insulation and a full on compressor short. It could have just been the capacitors time was up, but if not failing capacitors can be a symptom of loose connections.
Oh, also note that capacitor doesn't appear to have bleed off resistors. Careful with the fingers even after disconnecting the power.
Thank my cousin whom owns a small refrigeration company. Sparky here had that happen a couple of times and I mentioned it to him and he clued me in. Found a loose stakon going to the contactor that I replaced and haven't blown one since.
Which MEB shorty?
See, that may prove to be good advice. I was running single coil, so I kind of used the wick tails as channels in a way, to direct the airflow to the coil. Do you do single? Dual? If single, do you z mount it? Maybe we should take this to PM
Corey?
Don't want to hijack the thread. I just felt like I saw a lot of us used the o-16 (haven't I seen you?) and it may be helpful 
youtu.be/LGNrqWrKmsk
SSCC mod vid - finally. Almost 30 hours to upload it. Another 40 minutes getting the internet to work long enough to edit the description and make it go live. Im not even sure it actually went live, but i hope so...
Internet totally crashed afterwards. So im posting the link via my phone 3g. If this doesnt work, ill get it right tomorrow.
Oh you guys just wait for that Frontier Sucks video...and if they dont fix our internet next week, i dont know how to keep running this business. So trust me...im going to lay into them. Imagine getting told off for how slow and crappy you are, by a sloth.
Anyway, enjoy da vid if it works
Thank guys! I was sort of getting on with it, but watching sloth's explanation made me understand the mechanics behind it.Hey, Phanner..... make sure your atty is adjusted per the sloth's recommended procedures. Then, crank it down a little tighter. Your atty shouldn't be wobbly. Also, make sure there is no debris in your magnet holes...
Anyone know how I can get this to sit flush? Followed the recommended practices by our own resident sloth, no dice. Anyone else have a hobo that sits flush? I'm sure I'm just doing something wrong 
Flush Hobo below. I back the mod's 510 way out, seat my atty for desired flushness and AFC orientation, and then snug the 510 back up.
Looking at that pic reminded me that I have been wanting to ask everyone about their experience with the Origen 16. I really want to love it, and sometimes I do, but it just hasn't hit that "spot" for me yet (that's what she said
So when I've had an atty for awhile, and I'm still not getting the performance that I see others getting, I take it to my internet vape friends
Vertical single coil, 5 wraps 28/29 gauge a1 kanthal around 2.5mm. 1.2ohms
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Sorry,...been super busy today...
In the O-16, as in the Stumpy, and everything else these days,...I use the same coils I mentioned yesterday. 26g NiChrome, 7 wrap, 2mm ID, with rayon. I think I've just used 'em for so long that nothing else seems quite right to me.
In the O-16, as in the Stumpy, and everything else these days,...I use the same coils I mentioned yesterday. 26g NiChrome, 7 wrap, 2mm ID, with rayon. I think I've just used 'em for so long that nothing else seems quite right to me.
On the atty sitting flush thing..... inswva gets it.
You can basically remove the white delrin insulator completely, if you want. That way, there's nothing stopping your atty from running all the way in until it's flush with the cap (no gap). Then, reinstall the guts. This is all covered in the instructions I sent you.
You can basically remove the white delrin insulator completely, if you want. That way, there's nothing stopping your atty from running all the way in until it's flush with the cap (no gap). Then, reinstall the guts. This is all covered in the instructions I sent you.
Sorry,...been super busy today...
In the O-16, as in the Stumpy, and everything else these days,...I use the same coils I mentioned yesterday. 26g NiChrome, 7 wrap, 2mm ID, with rayon. I think I've just used 'em for so long that nothing else seems quite right to me.
You ain't livin till ya try SSl316 Clapton 26/32
Once again, here's Peter's explanation (slightly edited for our purposes)...
The "510 internals assembly" consists of:
The +post (bottomed out in the delrin insulator)
White delrin insulator
Brass washer
Positive contact leaf
Brass Thumb Nut
This assembly functions as a complete (static) unit when cinched together.
Remove "510 Internals Assembly" from housing (or loosen off by a couple turns: see "Disassembly" below)
Install atty until it bottoms out.
Screw in internals assembly until + meets +, good and snug (but finger snug, not tool snug).
Touch finger to positive contact leaf (to act as a stop), and unscrew only the Brass Thumb Nut (which will break free of the assembly and not disturb the location of the delrin as long as you're stopping the positive contact leaf from turning with it).
Re-orient the positive contact leaf to center it over the fire button.
Tighten Brass thumb nut.
Disassembly or atty swappage. Start by loosening off the atty. The delrin (and thus the 510 internals assembly) is freed up to spin by hand once the pressure is taken off it.
The "510 internals assembly" consists of:
The +post (bottomed out in the delrin insulator)
White delrin insulator
Brass washer
Positive contact leaf
Brass Thumb Nut
This assembly functions as a complete (static) unit when cinched together.
Remove "510 Internals Assembly" from housing (or loosen off by a couple turns: see "Disassembly" below)
Install atty until it bottoms out.
Screw in internals assembly until + meets +, good and snug (but finger snug, not tool snug).
Touch finger to positive contact leaf (to act as a stop), and unscrew only the Brass Thumb Nut (which will break free of the assembly and not disturb the location of the delrin as long as you're stopping the positive contact leaf from turning with it).
Re-orient the positive contact leaf to center it over the fire button.
Tighten Brass thumb nut.
Disassembly or atty swappage. Start by loosening off the atty. The delrin (and thus the 510 internals assembly) is freed up to spin by hand once the pressure is taken off it.
If you get the method down (at least my method) it really doesn't take that longWho da hell has time to make Claptons???
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Who da hell has time to make Claptons???
I don't: 10 pack 316L Stainless Steel Clapton Coil (26g/30g) or (28g/32g)
I'm lazy, have sausage fingers and old eyes and sometimes I twitch.
Someday I'll make a video....all you need is a drill, your wires and your fingers.....no swivels or other special tools required. It's all about how you hold the wires and how much pressure you apply with your finger tips.Did you need my address, or do you still have it?
Just need to get a camera [emoji38]
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