which one is your favorite and do you prefer them over the standard clearomizers
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I use these: eGo BCC Clearomizer - 5pc eGo 3ml Tabac/KangerTech T3 BCC (Bottom Coil Changeable) Clear cartomizer/Clearomizer
Love them, love them, love them - think they are so much better than the CE4s and CE5s and that sort of thing.......
Love them, love them, love them - think they are so much better than the CE4s and CE5s and that sort of thing.......
Protanks. Big flavour and big vapour.
You need less power to run them than top coils or almost anything else. 6 - 6.5 watts as per the card Kanger put in the box is a good starting point.
You need less power to run them than top coils or almost anything else. 6 - 6.5 watts as per the card Kanger put in the box is a good starting point.
While I don't have one, the protank 2 seems to be a crowd favorite. I'm currently waiting on my aspire tank in the mail, will report back with my feelings on that once it arrives 
fabricator4:10853092 said:
What??? That makes no sense. Nothing makes these things more efficient power wise.
Well an insulated house is more efficient to heat than an un-insulated one. The coil is buried down the bottom under all the juice - it runs a bit cold to start, but run them as per the Kanger instructions and you will do OK. When they are cold by all means run them at 8 watts, but as soon as the base is warm, make sure you turn them down (have a look all the people complaining about burning, and no it's not because of a wicking problem.)
I have 3 protank minis and 2 evods, I constantly see people complain about kangers but I've never had an issue with mine.
My favorite is the Smok Tech ARO Pyrex. Yes I like them way better than a top coil CE4/5. My personal sweet spot is about 6.7watts (4.5v 3.0 ohm coil). 5.7 watts on my eGo isn't bad either (3.7v 2.4ohm coil).
They usually burn the coil, then start ripping wicks out and have flooding issues. They just need to run them at Kanger's recommendations and learn how they are supposed to work, before trying to turn them into a fog machine. ;-)
Seems like I'm on a Kanger/Protank crusade today.
fabricator4:10853697 said:
That analogy doesn't work. You're not trying to heat the entire inside of the clearo, just the coil.
A protank does not take less power to run than any other coil setup at the same resistance.
Errr...
6-6.5 watts is a good starting point for any topper... Most people like that wattage--a bit higher for tobaccos and coffees, maybe. You don't need any less or more power to run those. Really. 6 watts is 6 watts. On any device.
I like the Kanger BCC lineup--especially the lastest upgrades: T3S, baby T3, mini PT2 and eVod. They are all good and worth trying. If you have an APV--the Kanger ProTank 2 is very good.
I don't care for top-coil models very much; I feel that the coil is placed too close to my lips and I hate all that constant tilting and turning of the clearo to get the wicking action going. I also don't care for the esthetics--those long wicks suspended in eliquid are not very appealing to me.
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Nevertheless, a true 8 watts on almost any bottom coil clearo will burn it after a while. If you like to chain vape you can get away with 6.5 watts for almost any length of time, but even then you can still burn them.
The anology was to dispel the statement that "nothing can be made more efficient". The analogy isn't so far out though because a fair amount of heat builds up in the base, at which point they have a tendency to overheat if you keep hammering them. You could say they are less efficient when they are cold, and more efficient when they are warm and you'd be a bit closer to the truth. Why is it so hard to believe (and no I didn't believe it either, threw away the Kanger card, and made all the usual mistakes
What are the main problems you hear about all the time with these?
1) It worked OK for a while, then I got a dry hit and it tasted burnt
2) My coils only last a day, then it tastes burnt
3) I put a new head in but my juice goes dark and tastes bad after one tank
All the result of trying to run these at 8 watts for an extended period of time. Then people tell them to pull some wicks out and you get:
1) It gurgles and produces almost no vapour
2) It works fine when the tank is full, but as soon as it gets to half it starts flooding
3) It just leaks and floods
4) It floods overnight and just keeps flooding
When you point out what Kanger's own recommendations are, and that they should return to that as a starting point, someone else *ALWAYS* chimes in and says "Oh, but I run them 8 watts" or 9, or 10, or even 11. If they only take the occasional puff, I can see that working. Chain vape on it and it's gonna burn though. Either that or their taste buds are permanently dead, or they've completely changed the head and it's resemblance to a factory made head is superficial only.
I get two weeks out of a coil with zero maintenance in that time. They are completely trouble and hassle free and all it needs is a wash and dry burn to get another 2 weeks out of it. Yes I might run it at 8 watts first thing in the morning when it is cold, but it's at 6.5 watts for the rest of the day and produces the same amount of flavour and vapour the whole day, and I can vape it down to almost the last drop. I will chain vape a couple of times a day, sometimes just to see the room fog up, sometimes because I really do need the nicotine, and sometimes because I'm in front of the TV or reading book and just zoning out.
I like fiddling and I've rebuilt these heads backwards and forwards. I've put coils made of cotton in them, I've pulled wicks out and I've put wicks in. I've tried high resistance, low resistance, and contact coils. The fact is though, the factory coil at 6.5 watts is all most people are really going to need because it just works.
I'm new. Been trying evods and Kanger T3s side by side. Thus far, I only prefer the T3 because of aesthetic reasons: it looks good. Also, I found the narrow window on the evod annoying in dim light.
Sent from my U8815 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my U8815 using Tapatalk 2
@Fabricator: Like I said, 5.5-6.5 watts is the preferred and safe wattage for all commercially made clearomizers and cartomizers. Your observations are correct.
Burnt taste in a clearomizer (any clearomizer) means that not enough eliquid gets to the coils on time either due to a very high wattage or chain vaping or an obstruction in the tank. If you take a drag off of a hot dry coil, it tastes burnt and disgusting because a dry hit is burning off the gunk from your coil--that is not a pleasant experience. You're actually smoking again. It happens in every clearomizer, Kanger, Smoktech, ViVi Nova, top coil, bottom coil, you name it. And in cartomizers and atties.
Coils get gunked up in every atomizer because unvaporized sediment (colorings, flavorings, sweeteners etc,) ends up on the coil and turns into a disgusting goo. Coils need to be cleaned often--the darker, the sweeter the juice, the faster the crud builds up.
Burnt taste in a clearomizer (any clearomizer) means that not enough eliquid gets to the coils on time either due to a very high wattage or chain vaping or an obstruction in the tank. If you take a drag off of a hot dry coil, it tastes burnt and disgusting because a dry hit is burning off the gunk from your coil--that is not a pleasant experience. You're actually smoking again. It happens in every clearomizer, Kanger, Smoktech, ViVi Nova, top coil, bottom coil, you name it. And in cartomizers and atties.
Coils get gunked up in every atomizer because unvaporized sediment (colorings, flavorings, sweeteners etc,) ends up on the coil and turns into a disgusting goo. Coils need to be cleaned often--the darker, the sweeter the juice, the faster the crud builds up.
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