Instead of building your coils on a piece of silica or ekowool, you build the coil on a percision screwdriver, allen key or whatever thats just wide enough to fit inside the slits of the cup of the protank and install it without any wicking with the wrapping device you choose. You add the cotton after its all installed, test burned to see if its shorting. I use a bead threader (IMO gives a more consistant amount of wicking material on both sides of the coil) but the twist method works also. After you got the coil installed into the head and before you cut the excess off, give both legs a slight pull to tighten them up cause when you put the insulator and positive pin back inplace, there is a tendancy to push the last wrap on each end up and make a hotspot, especially with a microcoil.
I have miles of ekowool around and along with cotton hemp fiber and silica so I've had my run with all the popular wicking materials but I was getting tired of replacing the cotton/hemp all the time and sometimes the breakin taste was unruly so I took some of the 2.5 hollow ekowool I have, cut a 2 inch piece off and unbraided it. Using the bead threader I folded 3-4 strands together and inserted into a bead threader and folded them over again and insert that into my coils. I now have the convience of using cotton/hemp with the dryburn ability of the ekowool. I don't see why you couldn't use this method with silica but I didn't boil or torch my ekowool but you have to torch silica and once you torch the wool or silica it gets crispy and harder to work with.
I use a 1mm silica flavor wick in all my builds, not to stop the flooding but to stop the splattering of the juice up the mouthpiece and giving you a juice film in your mouth.