Box mode..

[thedeval]

You answered a LOT of stuff I was wondering about. Thanks for taking the time outta your morning to do that. Much appreciated!

your welcome

So you run under the .3mm diameter recommended coil for kanthal and the dry hit mode still works well for you? If so that is frickin great to know as I like to go lower on ohms and I feel better about using bigger wire for some reason. I dunno maybe that will change once I actually build a coil!

I have done 30ga kanthal "single coil", dual coils in parallel, and twisted coils all in a range of .5 ohms up to about 2.0 ohms... and "TC" worked, and had good flavor... just had to change the wick alot.. (maybe that was juice or IDK??? ) don't get me wrong.. the wick/cotton was not "burned", but the build up on the coil was very bad, and happened very fast...

went to 28ga wire... and the build up issue was better... So doing what any normal and logical person would do... I went to 24ga wire.... 8) the box does push the wire enough to deal with the thicker wire... and TC does work just as before with the thicker wire.... however, it does take "more amps" to heat it up... (ie, going from 3ish to 6ish as stated before)

I am now actually waiting on my 26ga kanthal to come in.... Reasons: love the thicker wire to build with... easier... holds up better to "re-wicking"...
but... saddly, I think i went to far by going to 24ga... I run a Delta II tank with an RBA... and I have had to drill and hog-out a ridiculous amount of metal on the walls to make much much much (did i mention much?) bigger openings for the wick to make contact with the juice chamber. Why? because with 24ga and 40 ish watts, the wick drys out supper fast on the little RBA deck that sets inside of my delta II tank...
NOTE: There is no doubt in my mind that this mod is limiting power and is infact able to tell if the wick is not saturated enough... (as long as you teach it right)...
because of this Mod's abilty to do "TC", I have come to the point that I think the limiting factor is the wick/RBA size ratio to heat source. ie... my deck can't handle any more heat/power, and more importantly, due to size, it just can't pull in enough juice to not dry out. This leads to the Mod kicking in the dry hit protection, and means it is pain.... even if it is doing it's job... hahaha

SO... I am backing down to 26ga... which should solve the issues listed above, and still give a nice size wire to work with... and... let me be able to drop the wattage back down a little which should help make the batteries last a little longer?

I don't want to give the wrong idea off here... I can, and do get set-ups/builds that will chain vape the 24ga wire... but the wick has to be perfect... For me, at this time, I just would rather be able to drop in a new wick and not have to have Saturn and Venus lined up right to get a good couple of days out of it...

I like to go lower on ohms and I feel better about using bigger wire for some reason. I dunno maybe that will change once I actually build a coil!

Right now I use the isub apex with .2 stock kanthal coils and the uwell crown with the .5 stock ss dual coils on mpv 3 pro at about 42 watts for the isub and 60 for the crown (that's all the further it goes). I go through like 15 ml or more juice a day. I take shorter hits like 1.5-2 seconds and chain vape, or sometimes take like 3+ second hits and vape less often. The mpv lasts all day before it goes from green to yellow.

I have always keeped my coils... pre-made or home built between the .5 to 2.0 range... If I had to give a sweet spot that I think the Mod just wants to be.... I would have to say >>> btw .8ohms to 1.2ohms.... It does work above or below that... but for me at least... it seems to do better if I keep the build around there... ????

Also... you will have to "teach it" for more than 2 sec's a hit... shoot for 2.5 to 3 sec's... some ppl say you have to do that 3 or 4 times before going into TC mode... but I don't buy that... maybe I am wrong... but to me... your are trying get a hit that the mod can use as an example... or a "baseline" to use to judge against when in TC mode.... I would be very socked if it looked at more than "one" baseline ... so to me... the "last" 2 sec hit you do in VV mode is the one it will actually use to go into TC mode.... my point... make sure it is a good one... haha

I was looking at steam engine trying to figure some stuff out and I was really surprised at how few wraps are used in a lowish ohm build with like 30 gauge wire....seems dangerous or something to me. I can't wait to start building my own coils and experimenting.

Thanks again!

one more piece of advice for you.... if you are playing with different coil builds... (twisted, dual, etc....) keep very good spacing btw each wrap... cause if one wrap touches the next, this box will see it.... and see it as a "new coil" , it can be very sensitive to small ohms fluctuations that "other mods" don't catch/see...

if... you are seeing these fluctuations... or being kicked out of TC a lot.. try this....
sand down the 510 threads to be flush with the top of the case... and also.. sand off the paint on the ring on the case... this will allow good ground contact btw PCB ground, case ground, and coil ground by making the tanks ground physically short the 510 connector to the case....

If you don't get what I mean by this... let me know.. I will take a pic for you... but I think I posted about this somewhere else also...


anyway... hope this helps... sorry for the long post...

good luck... 8)

 

[benjamminj]

your welcome



I have done 30ga kanthal "single coil", dual coils in parallel, and twisted coils all in a range of .5 ohms up to about 2.0 ohms... and "TC" worked, and had good flavor... just had to change the wick alot.. (maybe that was juice or IDK??? ) don't get me wrong.. the wick/cotton was not "burned", but the build up on the coil was very bad, and happened very fast...

went to 28ga wire... and the build up issue was better... So doing what any normal and logical person would do... I went to 24ga wire.... 8) the box does push the wire enough to deal with the thicker wire... and TC does work just as before with the thicker wire.... however, it does take "more amps" to heat it up... (ie, going from 3ish to 6ish as stated before)

I am now actually waiting on my 26ga kanthal to come in.... Reasons: love the thicker wire to build with... easier... holds up better to "re-wicking"...
but... saddly, I think i went to far by going to 24ga... I run a Delta II tank with an RBA... and I have had to drill and hog-out a ridiculous amount of metal on the walls to make much much much (did i mention much?) bigger openings for the wick to make contact with the juice chamber. Why? because with 24ga and 40 ish watts, the wick drys out supper fast on the little RBA deck that sets inside of my delta II tank...
NOTE: There is no doubt in my mind that this mod is limiting power and is infact able to tell if the wick is not saturated enough... (as long as you teach it right)...
because of this Mod's abilty to do "TC", I have come to the point that I think the limiting factor is the wick/RBA size ratio to heat source. ie... my deck can't handle any more heat/power, and more importantly, due to size, it just can't pull in enough juice to not dry out. This leads to the Mod kicking in the dry hit protection, and means it is pain.... even if it is doing it's job... hahaha

SO... I am backing down to 26ga... which should solve the issues listed above, and still give a nice size wire to work with... and... let me be able to drop the wattage back down a little which should help make the batteries last a little longer?

I don't want to give the wrong idea off here... I can, and do get set-ups/builds that will chain vape the 24ga wire... but the wick has to be perfect... For me, at this time, I just would rather be able to drop in a new wick and not have to have Saturn and Venus lined up right to get a good couple of days out of it...



I have always keeped my coils... pre-made or home built between the .5 to 2.0 range... If I had to give a sweet spot that I think the Mod just wants to be.... I would have to say >>> btw .8ohms to 1.2ohms.... It does work above or below that... but for me at least... it seems to do better if I keep the build around there... ????

Also... you will have to "teach it" for more than 2 sec's a hit... shoot for 2.5 to 3 sec's... some ppl say you have to do that 3 or 4 times before going into TC mode... but I don't buy that... maybe I am wrong... but to me... your are trying get a hit that the mod can use as an example... or a "baseline" to use to judge against when in TC mode.... I would be very socked if it looked at more than "one" baseline ... so to me... the "last" 2 sec hit you do in VV mode is the one it will actually use to go into TC mode.... my point... make sure it is a good one... haha




one more piece of advice for you.... if you are playing with different coil builds... (twisted, dual, etc....) keep very good spacing btw each wrap... cause if one wrap touches the next, this box will see it.... and see it as a "new coil" , it can be very sensitive to small ohms fluctuations that "other mods" don't catch/see...

if... you are seeing these fluctuations... or being kicked out of TC a lot.. try this....
sand down the 510 threads to be flush with the top of the case... and also.. sand off the paint on the ring on the case... this will allow good ground contact btw PCB ground, case ground, and coil ground by making the tanks ground physically short the 510 connector to the case....

If you don't get what I mean by this... let me know.. I will take a pic for you... but I think I posted about this somewhere else also...


anyway... hope this helps... sorry for the long post...

good luck... 8)

So awesome! I am so glad the dry hit prev still works in less than 30g wire! I have the uwell crown rba on the way and from what I have watched on the interweb it looks like a big enough deck with enough wicking to handle a 24g or 26g and get me at about .5 no problem.

It will be a while before I try any other coil type than just a plain ole single non contact coil using steam engine. I hope I don't have to sand or do anything funky to it to make it work. If I do though I will always have your post to reference if and when I try to get more crazy, or if it starts kicking me out of tc.

Thanks for all of the great tips!

 

[benjamminj]

I received my Asolo 200w in the mail yesterday......so far......WOW!!!! This device works flawlessly. I absolutely love it. I have tried it with my crown tank with stock ss .5 ohm coil. Perfect. I have tried it with the isub apex with stock kanthal .2 ohm coil. Perfect. The isub apex constantly gave me dry hits on my mpv 3 pro. Not a single one on the Asolo. And somehow this 200w device is smaller than the 60w Mpv?

Amazing. I hope it stays that way.

 

[thedeval]

good to hear.... remember, if you start seeing flaky "learning", make the 510 completely flush to the top of the case...

I have physically seen/used 4 of these mods... and two of them I had to "fix" by doing the above... the other two have not had an issue... either way, it was/is simple to do, and once done, the issues went away.