Building coils for mechs
- Thread starter Sausages
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
That's a complicated question. If you have a solid physics/math background, and understand circuit fundamentals, build whatever you want as long as you stay within a reasonable safety margin for your particular battery.
If you have ever used a term like "vaper's math," assume your battery fires at 4.2 volts all the time, and take an amp off your battery's rated limit.
Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
If you have ever used a term like "vaper's math," assume your battery fires at 4.2 volts all the time, and take an amp off your battery's rated limit.
Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
Although you use 4.2V for your Ohm's law constant to determine if the batteries amperage CDR is above the resistance requirements, I tend to use 4V as my Ohm's law constant for an "average"... because 4.2V batteries don't stay at 4.2V for long.
Depending on atomizer net resistance, rate of discharge and battery "sag" and assuming a quality battery... the drop to around 3.7V from 4.0V tends to be a bit slower and more progressive than that initial loss. As I tend to toss in a new battery at around 3.4-3.5V, I don't waste time worrying about dropping below that value.
Lastly... the lower the net resistance/coil count in parallel/wire gauge & mass... the steeper the battery discharge curve is. You can use the Steam Engine battery drain calculation page to determine available time to discharge.
If you'd like to learn more about how the Steam Engine build modeling calculator works... click the first sigline hyperlink below for my SE advanced user guide.
So you enjoy your vape at 3.5V as much as you enjoy it at 4V?
No... which is why it's the, somewhat arbitrary but average cut off for my typical build preferences. It's when I usually notice (out of all the other things on my mind) that my builds performance has markedly dropped off. I'll pull the battery and it's voltage will, more often than not, be 3.5V +/- 0.1V.
Funny that you post this, Im a mech freak, and I actually like them better than my regulated. On a good mech with a good set up on the atty, especially around .90 and 1.0 it is still good at the lower voltage. The only thing that I really notice as it gets down to around 3.5 is that the cloud is smaller and I start to get a slight gurgle.
Sorry to interrupt the thread, but I could not resist.
I build for 3.8 volts, this gets me the best vape, charge to charge. I charge at between 3.5 and 3.6 volts.
Have you ever tried lower like .5ish? I'm still new to this but I've heard that in order to get a juice's full spectrum one needs a bit of power. I'm not talking crazy sub-ohm levels but just a bit of oomph.
I have, but too hard on my throat. But that being said, when I started anything below 1.0 was harsh for me. Ive been getting lower in the years since I first got my GG Odysseus. Maybe its the new designs or more air, but Ive found my comfort at around .80 to 1.0 depending on eliquid and atty Im using.
With my larger RTAs like the Flash-e-vapor V3's and Taifun GT2 and GSL's I can go around .80, with my smaller or more narrow atties, I stick to around 1.0.
With my one dripper (Origen V3) I stick to around .90 with my NETs.
I would consider myself some where above what they call "tootle puffers" flavor is the main concern and nice, thick velvety clouds are a perk.
Stick around long enough and you'll hear all kind of advice. Some juice is better at higher wattage some isn't.
Yep. A crazy amount of variables there are. I just read that not having squeaky clean hands when wicking with cotton might affect the taste because of the oils from your fingers
.8 to 1 ohm is the sweet spot for me, usually using 26 AWG kanthal. 6-8 wraps depending on ID.
You're best bet is to just start building coils and see what works for you!
You're best bet is to just start building coils and see what works for you!
This one is built at .32 with 26g kanthal. Average battery life 2 hours. You will definitely notice the difference in hit when the battery gets low
Lol
Quad coil true hybrid vapelyfe.
.26 ohms.
About 2 hours before a noticeable drop in vapor and flavor from an 18650 VTC4
Quad coil true hybrid vapelyfe.
.26 ohms.
About 2 hours before a noticeable drop in vapor and flavor from an 18650 VTC4
I'll just chime in with my sweet spot. 0.6 dual coil (each coil 1.2 ohm) with 28 gauge kanthal. Anything lower (ohms) is too warm to my liking. Anything higher there's not enough vapor to my liking.
Always make sure that your battery amp limits are up to the amp draw of the coil build that you make. Pushing your battery at or past their limit is rather hazardous.
Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
Explain It To The Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
Always make sure that your battery amp limits are up to the amp draw of the coil build that you make. Pushing your battery at or past their limit is rather hazardous.
Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
Explain It To The Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
Last edited:
Little more to it then that, on mechanicals knowing how to get the best results includes knowing how to balance resisitance against wire gauge, againt amount of wire, reaction times, and heat flux. Calculators help, but much will just come with experience. ( that coil/gauge is too cold for this build, maybe ill try this instead etc)
I have builds that run hot and the hit suffers as soon as the batt drops, but I have some.8 builds run decent till around 3.2 ish. So it comes down to finding the optimal coils for the vape you want off the mod you use.
I know there are lots of factors. Right now I'm just keeping it simple and the vape is actually pretty good. Single 27g/2.5mm/0.9ohms. Need to experiment though.
I coil for .7 ohm with a single coil, 26 kanthal over 400 mesh. If you are using a mech you already know about the voltage drop over vaping time, so adjust your expectations accordingly.
- Status
Similar threads
