Building coils for the Serpent Suck My Mod

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Cromulent

Full Member
Aug 2, 2017
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This is the first time I've ever owned an rta and I am slightly nervous but looking forward to the experience. I've ordered it but it hasn't arrived yet so I've been doing some research into how to build my own coils.

I went to this website:

Wire wizard | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

and this is what I entered into the site (click the thumbnail to see the full size image):

wire_wiz_clapton_coils.PNG

and then I went to this website:

Ohm's law | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

and this is what I entered into the site (click the thumbnail):

ohms_law_coil.PNG

Am I right in thinking that if I follow these instructions for making my coils and don't go over the maximum wattage listed in the Ohms law page everything will be safe with my coils?

I don't want to make a stupid mistake and blow up my batteries for instance but I'm pretty confident that I have all of the numbers right and now it is just a case of making my own coils using that specification.

Thanks for any help :).
 

Petabread

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 21, 2014
524
1,581
Miami, FL
This is the first time I've ever owned an RTA and I am slightly nervous but looking forward to the experience. I've ordered it but it hasn't arrived yet so I've been doing some research into how to build my own coils.

I went to this website:

Wire wizard | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

and this is what I entered into the site (click the thumbnail to see the full size image):

View attachment 676417

and then I went to this website:

Ohm's law | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

and this is what I entered into the site (click the thumbnail):

View attachment 676419

Am I right in thinking that if I follow these instructions for making my coils and don't go over the maximum wattage listed in the Ohms law page everything will be safe with my coils?

I don't want to make a stupid mistake and blow up my batteries for instance but I'm pretty confident that I have all of the numbers right and now it is just a case of making my own coils using that specification.

Thanks for any help :).
I'm on mobile, so it's hard to see the pics. But from the little bit I can see in the pics, the amp draw calculation you're using is used for mechanical mods.

The way you calculate amp draw for regulated mods are different versus mech mods. So what batteries are you using and what mod are you using?
 
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Cromulent

Full Member
Aug 2, 2017
11
12
40
I'm on mobile, so it's hard to see the pics. But from the little bit I can see in the pics, the amp draw calculation you're using is used for mechanical mods.

The way you calculate amp draw for regulated mods are different versus mech mods. So what batteries are you using and what mod are you using?

Ah I see. I'm using Samsung 30Q 18650 batteries (two of them) and the mod is a Smoant Charon 218W.

Edit: The mod and tank are currently on order and haven't shipped yet.
 

MMW

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Oct 8, 2015
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Hi @Cromulent! Here's a quick explanation for amp draw on regulateds brother. We all had/have the cautious confusion at one point with batteries.

Amp draw for regulateds should always be based off of your set wattage/voltage in conjunction with the mods voltage cutoff point, because that's when the most amps are drawn to keep up with the wattage demand while the batteries drain.

Usually in regulated mods the cutoff voltage is anywhere from 3-3.4v. Your mod has 2 batteries.

So using that we can calculate amp draw at different Wattages.
3.2v×2batteries is 6.4v.
Say you want to vape at 90w.
90w÷6.4v(cutoff)= 14.0625A

Folks often add in 5-10% because of the board inefficiency.
So that would be .1×14.0625= 1.40625 added to the 14.0625A= 15.46875A

So if you know what wattage you want to set and #of bateries with their CDR, you're good to go.
 

Petabread

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 21, 2014
524
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Miami, FL
Ah I see. I'm using Samsung 30Q 18650 batteries (two of them) and the mod is a Smoant Charon 218W.

Edit: The mod and tank are currently on order and haven't shipped yet.
Okay cool. So here's the way you calculate amp draw for regulated series mods:

Resistance doesn't matter on regulated mods. All that matters is the wattage you're intending to use and the voltage of your batteries (how much charge is on them.)

You take the wattage you're using, and you divide it by the battery voltage (fully charged = 4.2v times 2 batteries in your case, so 8.4v total). So if you're using 50 watts for example, 50/8.4v= 5.95 amps. Add about 10% for chip inefficiency, so 6.5 amps.

What I do is find out the worst-case scenario, meaning the amp draw when my batteries are almost dead (as your amp draw is higher when your batteries start getting low on charge.) My mods are set to cut off at 3.2v. So, 2 nearly dead batteries at 3.2v = 6.4v total. 50 watts divided by 6.4v = 7.81 amps + 10% for chip inefficiency = 8.6 amps. So if I'm using 20 amp batteries, I'm safe and sound at 50 watts, regardless of how much charge are on my batteries.

If you're using 218 watts divided by 8.4v = 26 amps, plus 10% chip inefficiency, so 28.5 amps. 218 watts at 6.4v = 34 amps, plus 10%, so 37.4 amps. You can see here that you're starting to get in the more dangerous, questionable territory if you're using 20 amp batteries.

From the sounds of it, it doesn't sound like you're going to be pushing your mod to the max, so I'd say you're good to go. Just wanted to share the proper formula so you have it going forward. Take care of your batteries/battery wraps and you should be just fine with no explosions/fires.

Hope this helps a bit! Here's a good write up from Mooch (our battery guru) about it: Calculating battery current for a regulated mod • r/electronic_cigarette
 

Petabread

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 21, 2014
524
1,581
Miami, FL
Hi @Cromulent! Here's a quick explanation for amp draw on regulateds brother. We all had/have the cautious confusion at one point with batteries.

Amp draw for regulateds should always be based off of your set wattage/voltage in conjunction with the mods voltage cutoff point, because that's when the most amps are drawn to keep up with the wattage demand while the batteries drain.

Usually in regulated mods the cutoff voltage is anywhere from 3-3.4v. Your mod has 2 batteries.

So using that we can calculate amp draw at different Wattages.
3.2v×2batteries is 6.4v.
Say you want to vape at 90w.
90w÷6.4v(cutoff)= 14.0625A

Folks often add in 5-10% because of the board inefficiency.
So that would be .1×14.0625= 1.40625 added to the 14.0625A= 15.46875A

So if you know what wattage you want to set and #of bateries with their CDR, you're good to go.
You beat me, Todd! I like to be beat.
 
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Eskie

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Lol. Same!

I knew either you or @Eskie would be back!

Then there's always my easy peasy way of doing it without a bunch of math. For a 20A battery 60W is the most I would use, 2X20A 120W, and so on.

Yes, it's good to know the math and why it works out as it does. Once you understand the principle behind it, a 20A battery is good for 60W in a regulated mod.

Unregulated mechs, it's a bit different and you should always double check your math.
 

Cromulent

Full Member
Aug 2, 2017
11
12
40
Okay cool. So here's the way you calculate amp draw for regulated series mods:

Resistance doesn't matter on regulated mods. All that matters is the wattage you're intending to use and the voltage of your batteries (how much charge is on them.)

You take the wattage you're using, and you divide it by the battery voltage (fully charged = 4.2v times 2 batteries in your case, so 8.4v total). So if you're using 50 watts for example, 50/8.4v= 5.95 amps. Add about 10% for chip inefficiency, so 6.5 amps.

What I do is find out the worst-case scenario, meaning the amp draw when my batteries are almost dead (as your amp draw is higher when your batteries start getting low on charge.) My mods are set to cut off at 3.2v. So, 2 nearly dead batteries at 3.2v = 6.4v total. 50 watts divided by 6.4v = 7.81 amps + 10% for chip inefficiency = 8.6 amps. So if I'm using 20 amp batteries, I'm safe and sound at 50 watts, regardless of how much charge are on my batteries.

If you're using 218 watts divided by 8.4v = 26 amps, plus 10% chip inefficiency, so 28.5 amps. 218 watts at 6.4v = 34 amps, plus 10%, so 37.4 amps. You can see here that you're starting to get in the more dangerous, questionable territory if you're using 20 amp batteries.

From the sounds of it, it doesn't sound like you're going to be pushing your mod to the max, so I'd say you're good to go. Just wanted to share the proper formula so you have it going forward. Take care of your batteries/battery wraps and you should be just fine with no explosions/fires.

Hope this helps a bit! Here's a good write up from Mooch (our battery guru) about it: Calculating battery current for a regulated mod • r/electronic_cigarette

Thank you very much. That was incredibly useful :).
 
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Eskie

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You picked up the SMM? Really considering it, but I'm just not a single coil kinda guy. Maybe you can change my mind lol

Most of my stuff is dual coil, but I really like the performance of this tank. The only other single coil tanks I use are a Merlin and a Pharaoh RTA. Both very different than th SMM, but all serve their purpose. The SMM is one of my best flavor tanks, giving the dual coil Engine a run for the money.
 

Vaperx

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Jul 26, 2016
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Really love the SMM. I've always been into the single coils but this one definitely produces the best Flav out of any singles I've used. The tanks I've used in the last while are the Griffen 25, Pharoah, iJoy Exo, Kylin, Ammit 22, OBS Dual and Nano. The SMM is awesome and takes first spot here. The compact size for 4ml, great build deck, no bother with juice flow and has great airflow is perfect. Seemed a little loud at first but moved the coil up a bit. Sounds much better now. No leaks, no seeping and bone dry under the base. Winner for me. [emoji106]

Sent from my Galaxy S8
 
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