built a wooden "reo" style squank box

Status
Not open for further replies.

kmksubled

Full Member
Dec 2, 2013
21
42
california
here are pics of my latest creation .
It holds a ridiculous 15 ml. I got a protected panasonic core 18650 3100mah batt in it so it goes for about 12 hours hard vaping.
it's made out of alder, ordered the 510 batt connector,spring, and horn button, from mad vapes, the igo w on top i got at my local vape shop, the drip tip is pine wood I turned on the lathe in my shop. LOVE this thing and I almost perfected the "blind sqaunk" within 20 mins of using it , but i hear you gotta get used to blind squanking in different temps as the juice gets thiner thicker ect. so ill have some tissue handy for awile lol .

sqaunk box 011 (850x638).jpg sqaunk box 010 (641x850).jpg sqaunk box 008 (850x638).jpg sqaunk box 013 (637x850).jpg
 

Tbev

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Oct 22, 2013
5,674
12,660
SoCal-Vegas
instagram.com
I just did a bottom feeder as well, I put a moat around the inside of the igo and is pretty cool if gives you a lot bigger tolerance for running dry, helping me get used to squaking,
u9e6eda7.jpg


I'm running dual coils in it with probably way too much cotton, do you find is a better vape if you run smaller wick?
5e2e3y8a.jpg
 

P1NkY

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 19, 2011
357
169
Planet Earth
here are pics of my latest creation ...LOVE this thing and I almost perfected the "blind sqaunk" within 20 mins of using it , but i hear you gotta get used to blind squanking in different temps as the juice gets thiner thicker ect. so ill have some tissue handy for awile lol .
How dare you! Just kidding, awesome box, Kmk!
I've never tried a bottom feeder, but I thought the excess juice would get sucked or drained back in the bottle. Has this not been the case?
I just did a bottom feeder as well, I put a moat around the inside of the igo and is pretty cool if gives you a lot bigger tolerance for running dry, helping me get used to squaking,
I'm running dual coils in it with probably way too much cotton, do you find is a better vape if you run smaller wick?
Looks good to me! I probably use more than that in my Chyclone dripper, and it's pretty tiny!
 

kmksubled

Full Member
Dec 2, 2013
21
42
california
@ buffalosoulja - not making any for sale, what i did to make this was put a battery next to a empty bottle and build around that.

@ tbve- I do think you got a little too much wick there my experience with cotton is that it is true what they say "less is more" for some reason with less cotton the vape tastes better to me. but i do use more cotton on my squank box to give more warning b4 a dry hit :) and i am a jedi master of the blind squank now :) BTW the mote idea is pretty awesome.

@ P1NkY - yes!! when you sqaunk it juice floods the cotton and most of what does not absorb just gets sucked back down so you dont get flooded hits :)

@ everyone- the box in the pic is still in use all day everyday . heres a pic of the coil lay out , this 26 guage @ .5 ohm build is over 1 month old now and im still vaping on these coils! (the cotton gets changed daily but the coils still perform) and it moves about 7-8 mills a day . vape on ! dual coil diesel burner 013 (1091x1200).jpg
 
Last edited:

kmksubled

Full Member
Dec 2, 2013
21
42
california
incase anyone is wondering or if anyone stumbles into this thread, here is another box I made , and i will report the first box still works like a champ, just had to do another because A: one is never enough when speaking vape and B:I wanted to make one better , cleaner soilder job and wiring. and classic muscle paint . it just works. again parts from mad vapes, igo-w on top, same coil and cotton , alder box made here in my shop, painted with acryilics and coated in clear specialty lacquer. freakin sweeet! vape box 001.jpg vape box 004.jpg
 

kmksubled

Full Member
Dec 2, 2013
21
42
california
they way i do it is, first i drill a hole a tiny bit bigger then the hose in the bottom of the atty in the best posible spot , then I screw the atty onto a 510 conector that i have soldered leads to , feed the leads through the hole were the 510 is going to be seated dry seat the 510 with the atty on it and mark were to drill by taping an awl through the hole in the atty. then remove the atty and 510, drill the hole for the tubing through the box, put a lil loctite clear glue-all were the 510 seats in the box and seat it making sure the hole in the attylines up with the hole in the box . once the glue on the 510 is set good i take a piece of line and cut a angle on one end and feed that end down through the atty and into the box. then i take a small screwdriver that is a little bit bigger then the interior of the tubing and heat it up not red hot but realy warm ill sayand stick it in the end of the tubing that is up out the top of the atty just the tip to give it a wider flange . the tubbing i use i got at the local auto parts store and is high presure clear oil line, it is very stiff stuff and holds the flange nicely , then i pull the line from the bottom to seat the flange into the atty (this takes a great deal of care and force) once its set it will not leak and it will not move.then i trim the line flush with the atty bottom with a zacto very carfully, then i trim the line at the bottom just the right length so it will reach the bottom of the bottle and get every last drop of whatever tasty juice i put in there, I make my own juice at 50-50 pg vg and it does good eaven in the colder mornings.
 
Last edited:

Karltinsly

Senior Member
Verified Member
Dec 7, 2011
72
28
63
Austin, TX
I'm getting ready to build this exact mod as my first. The only difference is that I'm planning to feed the atty through the 510 connection. I like the way you did it, though, and it seems like it would be a lot easier to engineer. I'm worried that I'll get juice leaking out of the 510 threads. Maybe I'll give your way a try instead.

Really nice work!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread