can regulated mods be rebuilt at all?

[mamabear15]

Okay, yes, I'm a rookie!! ROFL
What I'm wondering is basically with the FDA vapocalypse, worst case scenario if they get all the "good" devices off the market...all I have are regulated vw mods, what if they die? Obviously replaceable batteries, etc but if a chip fries? If the wiring goes nuts? All that "what if" stuff - can it be handled on a regulated mod? Or would I be screwed without a mech? I have read a little about like the dna 40 chip, someone mentioned changing the 30 out for the 40...that's what made me start thinking about it...
Also, assuming it can be done, is there a certain type of device better than another for "just in case" ability to fix? Have any of you done this? Or is the question itself just stupid & showing my lack of experience? Lol

 

[Thrasher]

Nothin wrong with the question,

Its really hard to fix these boards as they have such an abundance of micro components that an average repair person couldn't deal with. In many cases when we send something in to be repaired they just replace the board.

Buuuuut

Here's the flip side,
While all these mods are highly specialized for our usage. They are still based on standard electronic parts, circuits and theories.
Can you build a DNA 40 out of parts found online? No
can you build a mod with voltage regulation that will act just like a simple regulated mod? Sure can, the original regulated mods were simple off the shelf parts many modders still use today. And the companies like provari and evolv(DNA) just had the resources to fine tune and specialize them for what we do.

Find the modding subforum and look at the depth of some of the mods being designed and built by some members.
DNA and provari can be shut down and taken away, but regulated mods aren't going anywhere. It would just end up like the early years where you had to do a little hunting to find those modders to build you something.

 

[mamabear15]

Thrasher, you're awesome. Thanks for the reply! If I can push my luck...since other posts I've read seem to imply the boards can be switched out? (Like the guy I saw on another thread here wanting to swap a DNA40 for the 30 he had?) ...could one like me simply get a couple extra boards to have on hand, and putting another in + any other issues come up be user-doable for someone like me? (Sorry, I've searched for days and have yet to find info I'm looking for, else I wouldn't be asking someone to cater to my ignorance) lol

 

[mamabear15]

I saw a blog where someone actually took an istick 50w apart to see what was inside. Other than the board, it seemed to just be 2 basic 18xxx batteries soldered in place, and the wiring to connect it all together with the OLED screen. So that also made me think it might be "replaceable" - people talk about how regulated mods with internal batteries just die and you have to replace the whole device. But couldn't one take it apart and simply reconnect them? (wrong term I think but I mean for example the iStick as opposed to, say, a Sigelei 150 where you are meant to swap out batteries...) Sound legit or is there a huge gap in my knowledge as to the complexity of it? I know it wouldn't be ideal. But I go on overload thinking of dealing with voltage drop, etc on a mech and also I don't know advanced vapers like you mentioned in person to where I could ask for a hookup or even a lesson, LOL. If vapocalypse happens I'm screwed and trying to find what my work-arounds will be while we can!!

 

[Rickajho]

It's not quite as simple as switching a light bulb. There are multiple contact points to control buttons, battery contacts & a USB charging port depending on the configuration that have to be unsoldered and soldered back onto the new board. In addition to that there is the matter of physically removing the old board and mounting the new one. Was it glued in place? Brackets? etc. With manufactured devices that isn't to say that it can't be done, but they aren't typically designed with replaceable parts in mind.

 

[Thrasher]

Yea ricks got it I know they make it sound easy but here's what you get



Some of the clone boards come prewired



Like I said barring DNA functions a simple regulated mod circuit and parts can be found all over online. 4 -5 parts a downloaded diagram, a project box and an afternoon with a soldering iron bam, box mod.

Even the 510 connection can be made with a m7x1mm drill tap( I think that's the size)

I wouldn't stress until the bell gets rung so to speak


As for rewiring a busted mod? Well soon as you bypass the board you just made a mechanical

 

[edyle]

Okay, yes, I'm a rookie!! ROFL
What I'm wondering is basically with the FDA vapocalypse, worst case scenario if they get all the "good" devices off the market...all I have are regulated vw mods, what if they die? Obviously replaceable batteries, etc but if a chip fries? If the wiring goes nuts? All that "what if" stuff - can it be handled on a regulated mod? Or would I be screwed without a mech? I have read a little about like the DNA 40 chip, someone mentioned changing the 30 out for the 40...that's what made me start thinking about it...
Also, assuming it can be done, is there a certain type of device better than another for "just in case" ability to fix? Have any of you done this? Or is the question itself just stupid & showing my lack of experience? Lol

Well with a mech mod and a kick you can just change the kick if need be.
I've found my brass vamo to be highly repairable, but having to deal with pressfit is annoying when the time come; I much rather just screw off a topcap and drop in a replacement kick

 

[turbocad6]

anything can be fixed, dna chips can be swapped out and upgraded, I've got spare chips enough that my dna devices will last until we're vaping with lazer atomizers that will need a whole different control circuit, so they'll last at least until there obsolete with enough spare chips

personally I think in 5 years there will be enough advancements that you won't even care if there working or not cause there will be much better stuff anyway. I'd say just have a few spare chips if you're really worried about it and then just don't worry so much and just enjoy today's tech today.

 

[Thrasher]

Oh yea for the other part

A lot of this Chinese stuff is made cheaper then some of the individual parts cost. I think a DNA board is like 40 bucks? 20-30 for a clone its not worth the effort to try and repair the cheap stuff I could understand you dropped 250 on a vaporshark or something but repairing a 40 dollar throw away for 50 bucks?

 

[mamabear15]

Okay, makes sense. Thank you all for taking your experience and putting it in terms a newb can understand!! A last question please - without a board, how is it regulated? Just add a Kick?

 

[AndriaD]

A Kick is a small electronic part, with a chip and a small adjustable doohickey, that you drop into a mechanical mod in order to make it regulated -- the adjustable bit is how you adjust the wattage. Because it's not nearly as convenient as a regulated mod, it's best to use them if you know you'll always vape at the same wattage, but they're useful because you get the same vape with every hit until it's time to charge the battery, and it provides a small amount of protection -- it won't fire under 1.3 ohms, and if there's a short it won't fire at all. I also like them very much, because they cost about $12, much cheaper to replace than a whole regulated mod.

My only quandary about them is, what if all this vapocalypse stuff does come to pass, and it's no longer possible to get them. Yes, I could simply build very-high resistance coils and so continue to use my mechs in a way that wouldn't kill my lungs or waste my batteries with high-temp vapor I couldn't inhale anyway... but obviously I'd prefer to have a Kick.

Mamabear... don't know if you build your coils, but that is the way that one used to "regulate" one's vape, before the variable mods became available -- that's really where all this sub-ohm business came from, because back then, it was the only way to get the massive vapor that the high-watt mods give now. Building high resistance coils would make the vape cooler, and thus much easier for those who can't handle all that vapor.

Andria

 

[Thrasher]

Kick2

I know it seems crazy and rebuilding sounds all technical and only for those who are geeky or very mechanically inclined. But a little effort and it really isn't that hard.
We have several senior members here ( and I mean age not time on forum) who have fell right into rebuilding and I think if a 79 year old retiree can bust out coils in a kayfun4 just about anyone can


. One of the coolest parts is you get addicted to experimenting with the build ( I wonder, if I put my wick like this.....)

One of our members superxdrifter has taken extensive time making very in depth and highly detailed training videos, what he has over all the other videos is he actually talks to the audience in simple language . I recommend his vids to anyone interested. he makes a real effort to not make new people feel stupid like me he understands we all start somewhere.

Great guy, if you catch him when he's on he will always talk to you. When ya got some time to kill check out his vids


www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/coil-builds/648002-do-you-want-rebuild-dont-know-where-start-how-bout-here.html


With this kind of knowledge, and people like this around.you can see why many rebuilders are pretty unstressed about possible bans on cigalikes and clearos

 

[mamabear15]

You guys are awesome. THANK YOU!!!

 

[Smann245]

Having a couple GE NAOS RAPTOR 120 watt chips along with a couple fatdaddyvapes 510 connectors on hand would ensure you're not screwed. All the other parts needed to build a 120 watt, variable voltage mod are not specific to vaping and would remain available. The Raptor chip is a dc-dc convertor and would probably remain available, but to be sure, a couple of those and a couple good connectors would ensure you have the important parts. Enclosures, buttons and the other misc electronic components will always be around.

 

[Thrasher]

Just so you can see how deep the rabbit hole really goes.

Modding Forum

I would dare say you'll find home brew mods in here that are every bit as good if not better in some cases then the cheap junk found on the shelf of vape shops

 

[edyle]

Okay, makes sense. Thank you all for taking your experience and putting it in terms a newb can understand!! A last question please - without a board, how is it regulated? Just add a Kick?

a kick module is something a bit smaller than an 18350 sized battery (about half as short), and you drop that into the mech mod on top of the battery.
Unlike having a spare chip for a vamo, you don't have a screen, but you don't have to worry about soldering, or taking apart a pressfit, or stuff like maybe glue.

Kicks are not very popular, so there is not a wide variety of them available; so for example, there's been a lot of 30 watt mods manufactured but there are no 30 watt kicks!! yet.

 

[turbocad6]

kicks are designed to be 15mm long, so an 18500 with a kick equals the length of an 18650, an 18350 with a kick equals the length of an 18500.

basically it's a regulated board in an 18mm round disc form with no display. you sacrifice battery life by going to one sized smaller battery to accommodate it, and they're limited to ~ 15watts. only real benefit is drop in installation

 

[mamabear15]

Modding forum link!!! Yes!!! I've never been able to FIND it much less read it - OK, I'm gonna be up all night now. Haha thanks all!!

 

[Completely Average]

If you can solder then you can rebuild a regulated mod. Just buy a new chip, solder it up, and mount it in place. It's actually very easy, especially if you're working with a box mod case. If you've got a soldering iron that gets hot enough I recommend using a silver solder which will have better electrical conductivity and withstand higher heat.

 

[RayofLight62]

An actual mod may work better without a proprietary mcrocontroller. Made by using standard parts, you only lose the five memory slots.
Current mods: if you use them at half power or less, semiconductor components will last forever. The two electrlytic capacitors on the board will need replacement every year or two, as they are too small for the ripple current they have to withstand.
Also, the OLED display on most mods is typically of very low quality' losing 30-40% brightness per year of use.
Numeric LED display -like those on MVP- can last over 10 years.
my 2 pennies