Can the center pin/"black stuff" effect the performance?

[GoodNews!]

Hey guys, quick question:

On my new MVP2, basically, when I screw something in, and check the voltage (ex. iClear 30), and check the ohms, sometimes it'll say 2.2, sometimes 2.4, sometimes 3.0, depending on how firmly it's connected. If it's pretty loose, of coarse, it just says NON (no connection/short). I'm wondering which of these ohms is really the correct one for the iClear 30 if the original ohms for that dual coil is supposed to be 2.0ohms (I'm unsure what a dual-coil ohm is supposed to read out like on an ohm checker.)

But I'm also wondering if any of these variants are a sign that the coil will perform differently. If I vape it at each variance, usually it just goes back to 2.2 after the puff, but I'm just wondering out loud.

Also, once you have screwed a few tanks in, obviously black stuff will start to appear on the 510 connection threads. Does this black stuff also have a possible effect on the power being delivered? It'd seem like that black stuff is metal dust, and I'm just wondering if it causes like, extra power to sort of run through in any type of way.

One last question I guess, is if the position of the center pin could have any effect on a device - like if it gets pushed down after a period of use, can this cause any extra voltage or anything like that to be delivered?

Just trying to gauge how careful I should be with my devices, and how often I should try to clean that gunk off, or how firm of screwing I need to do for my tanks!

 

[Ref Minor]

Screw it down until it makes firm but not tight contact and clean the threads weekly.

 

[K_Tech]

Screw it down until it makes firm but not tight contact and clean the threads weekly.

What Ref Minor said.

And yes, if the center pin gets pushed down too far, it can eventually get to the point where it no longer makes contact with the positive pin of the atomizer, and you'll have to (very gently) pry it up a hair to get it to make good contact again.

This happened on two of my devices, I did the "O-ring" fix and no more trouble.

(On some devices, the rubber grommet that's used to both insulate and support the center pin is pretty flimsy, and can easily be pushed down and/or tear.

 

[GoodNews!]

Luckily, I've never had a problem with a device not firing (a lot of batteries seem to have this problem, I guess I've just been lucky... even a tester battery at the local shop had an issue with this), I'm just wondering if when the center pin gets pushed down a little, if it could have any real effect on the power the battery does put out, or the power that the coils receive (the way they heat up) or anything.

Same question with that black dust, I guess.

What's the best way to clean that stuff off, btw? Rubbing alcohol do fine?

 

[j3illy]

I have a tiny screwdriver that I use to pull up the center pin on my batteries, usually once a week. I do it just a bit cuz I've seen clearos leak if that center pin goes too low. I've wondered myself if that bit of juice on the battery can affect the power being delivered, or cause any type of loss in performance.

 

[gully]

A dual coil that is made up of 2x3ohm coils will read 1.5ohms.

A device will deliver the power that is asked of it eg 4 volts to the connection,a gunked up connection may result in slightly less than that 4 volts getting to the coil but not more.

What Ref said.

 

[Ryedan]

I'm just wondering if when the center pin gets pushed down a little, if it could have any real effect on the power the battery does put out, or the power that the coils receive (the way they heat up) or anything.

This has never happened to me on a regulated device. It either gets power to the coil or not.

Same question with that black dust, I guess.

Same as above.

What's the best way to clean that stuff off, btw? Rubbing alcohol do fine?

I use rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip. Let the alcohol evaporate for a couple of minutes before putting back the topper.

 

[Baditude]

The center pin should be cleaned "as needed" with some isopropal alcohol.

From posts here on ECF and my own experience with my MVP, it must have a center pin which is easily pushed down too far if not careful when attaching attachments too tightly. When mine was new, it would fire clearomizers just fine, but wouldn't fire any of my cartotanks. I had the salesman where I got it take a look at it. He applied several different attachments to it and it was only my cartos that wouldn't fire. No solution offered. I later pulled the center pin up myself with a jeweler's screwdriver and my cartotanks worked fine.

I still need to pull the pin up slightly occassionally, even though I try not to attach my tanks too tightly.

 

[RoseB]

I like to compulsively clean threads. Mostly every time I load my tank. I will wipe the threads with a dry cotton swab. Non weirdos may want to stick to once or twice a day. Getting a lot of e liquid build up is hard on devices. The gunk that you see in the threads is nasty, but what you don't see can be even worse. Alright I am done nagging

 

[danny4x4]

Varying resistance on clearos happen because the legs are not secured with screws, but rather the rubber/silicon grommet.

To lower the likelihood of varying resistance on clearos, ensure the legs are straight and tight before inserting the grommet at the bottom when you recoil.

 

[Diogenes]

I like to compulsively clean threads. Mostly every time I load my tank. I will wipe the threads with a dry cotton swab. Non weirdos may want to stick to once or twice a day. Getting a lot of e liquid build up is hard on devices. The gunk that you see in the threads is nasty, but what you don't see can be even worse. Alright I am done nagging

I thought I was the only one who did this! But I take it one step farther, every so often, I take my tank off and clean the connector. Just because I like it clean, and because my OCD tells me the world will end if I don't do it. But lately, after reading some of the threads here, its getting easier to ignore the OCD with the hopes that the voice is really correct!

 

[MissKitty47]

Op head over to the mvp 2 owners group and READ READ READ READ READ....pay attention to popus and his info.

Sent by my cat through pure magic

 

[Anthal69]

Good News, anything that comes between two electrical current points can and will diminish the delivered power. The black gunk is a type of corrosion caused by electrical current and possibly a bit of dissimilar metal corrosion as well depending on what the atty metal is vs. the battery 510 connector metal. I clean my connectors regularly, on the device and the tank. The loss of power is slight at first, but it will get worse over time. With the finicky experiences you've been having, is suggest cleaning them every day.


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[Recycled Roadkill]

Good News, anything that comes between two electrical current points can and will diminish the delivered power.

Anything that comes between two electrical current points is known as as resistance!

 

[Anthal69]

Anything that comes between two electrical current points is known as as resistance!

Lol, yeah that too, but the added resistance will throw off his ohms, making him turn up more power and burn his coils to the dirty sock taste he gets. Or maybe the black gunk tastes like dirty socks....I dunno.


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[Recycled Roadkill]

Lol, yeah that too, but the added resistance will throw off his ohms, making him turn up more power and burn his coils to the dirty sock taste he gets. Or maybe the black gunk tastes like dirty socks....I dunno.


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Just wanted you to know that I totally agree with both of your posts, I just felt the need to elaborate on the resistance part just a bit.

 

[Anthal69]

No worries. It did need clarification, lol. With the problems he had with his ohm checker, he doesn't need ghost resistance flubbing him up too.


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[patkin]

Thanks! I've found this thread informative.