Can we have this topic dedicated to temperature tootling?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Vesh

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 17, 2017
588
1,042
Hi, the other topic is so big, I thought it would be nice to start a fresh one dedicated purely to the subject of MTL with temperature coils.
I'd love to hear of other's experiences and suggestions.

I've been MTL with temp coils for a week exclusively now, and it's given me the best throat hit i've ever gotten, and i've been vaping for 3 yrs 2 months now.

I started for the first time ever with the vaporshark nautilus 0.3 ohm coils (nickel). I pretty much got the last lot in all of Australia lol, which will inevitably run out (i have 14 coils remaining).
I found that they don't last that long BUT they go through juice so slowly.. Right now I have a beyond vape silo full size tank, VS coil, 17 watts, 440 faranheit.

I've also tried the official aspire mini triton nickel coils which are 0.15 ohm, but to be honest, i prefer the throat hit of the vapor shark. I'm happy to continue with the aspire when i run out though which will always be available, as they are still decent. (if you've used the triton mini 1.2 coil, it's that sort of very sharp throat hit, where as the VS is more broad in it's TH coverage, which I prefer).
I'm using 24 nic. Rest assured, the triton mini nickel coils are small bore, specifically made for tootling, so high nic is just fine if that's what you like.

Joyetech made one for the ego one in a 0.25 nickel, specifically for MTL, and I can't find any anywhere. I am sad I didn't buy some in the day when they were new and easy to buy.
Has anyone tried them? They only have the wide bore DL 0.2 nickel now. But i'd love to try the 0.25 MTL one, if anyone knows anywhere that has stock (unless of course you have tried them and think they are no good).
These are them, btw:
CL-Ni Head for Mouth Inhale - Joyetech

I haven't found any TI or SS MTL temp coils yet for any tank, and nickel DOES have a slight off flavour to it that it adds to the juice. (it could just be my taste buds, who knows).

Any other experiences you have to share would be most welcome, good or bad.

BTW, i haven't had a single dry hit with the setup above, and the vapor is slightly more than the standard wattage coils. I find with any other (non temp coil), no matter what, even if you get 99 perfect hits, you still get the 1 random dry.
One thing i noticed, the eleaf temp control is very aggressive with these coils and barely does anything even at 440. I found the aspire chipsets and the dna40 works much more consistently. The joyetech evic vtwo worked well also, and i believe eleaf uses joyetech temp control? (correct if i am wrong and pls accept my apologies). It could be that my only temp control eleaf device is an older one, the single 18650 TC60 watt (the one with the centre mounted 510).
 
  • Like
Reactions: David Wolf

bwh79

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 11, 2014
4,600
6,644
46
Oregon
I've got a DNA40 and a spool of Ni200 but I never got around to actually building any TC coils. I still mean to, one of these days. I got some SS wire too, but neither of my mods can do TC with SS wire, only nickel, so I have used that one, but only in standard wattage mode.
 

sofarsogood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Oct 12, 2014
5,553
14,168
TC combined with an early design rda gives me what I want. A pico or vtc mini is adequate for me. Recently I added the Arctic Fox firmware so i can see the max watts and max temp after each puff. From that I'm getting a much better understanding of how I vape. When the coil is super saturated the temp is well below the 400 limit I set. by the time I'm hitting the temp limit it's taking 10 watts or less to warm the coil because there's not much liquid to cool the coil. I'm accustomed to both kinds of vapor. I too care about throat hit and also texture. I use only a small amount of flavoring, just enough to cover the taste of the other ingredients.
 

Vesh

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 17, 2017
588
1,042
Hi, how is your experience for mtl@400F.

400 looks like a very safe spot for 50/50 liquid (taking the mod inaccuracy into account) and i wonder if a satisfactory experience is possible on that setting.
as I continue to vape, I have to turn it up.. what i settled on was 440 and 17 watts. You can go to 20 watts easily and still no burning with the nautilus temp coils or triton mini coils. I know the exact taste of the juice I am using so i am really able to fine tune it, as i've vaped that juice for years.
You are right, 400 works at first but then no good. I have to amend my overall findings.
 

Vesh

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 17, 2017
588
1,042
BTW it's great to get some posts from those building their own.. I know eventually I will cave in and try it myself. I have shaky hands which is what I am worried about, but i'm patient, which is a good thing.
My experiences thus far are only with pre made temp coils, so it's limited, which is why I think it's a good idea to be able to share any MTL temp vape you are happy with. It doesn't get talked about enough.

Funnily enough, i was put off temp vaping by none other than all the prominent vaping you tubers. I am glad i was stubborn enough to eventually ignore tham and try it.

Any ideas for building the joyetech MTL 1.0hm CLR coils with temp wire? Would that work? They are a very nice MTL coil and i have a lot of joyetech tanks (unfortunately, before i knew any better, cause same reviewers were raving on about ego ones, and i wanted all these colours.. all i had were issues before the CLR coils, spit, gurgles and dry hits, that somehow these reviewers magically didn't have - but then i started to find more and more peeps having the same issues as myself).

I also tried the triton mini coils on a pegasus mini, which has no control over watts in temp mode.. as far as i understand it, it gives it's full 50 watts to preheat (it won't hit it though if you have the temp real low, obviously). They didn't burn thankfully but it was too warm a vape for me. I find if it's too warm, it mutes throat hit, or gives the kind of TH i am not really into. I like it broad, covering all back of my throat, strong but without any peppery (ie no throat hit enhancers) and without causing me to cough. So, smooth but damn noticeable if you get what I mean. And then for it to just go away until the next hit with no linger.

Right now my ADV today is a h priv at 17 watts and 440 F with the triton mini nickel in a full size nautilus. I am quite impressed with smok's temp control.
Some of their mods only have a pre setting like soft or normal or hard (soft for example is 0-20 watt pre heat) but the h priv allows fine tune. I did try a friend's device that only has their presets, and that worked well too ( i chose normal at 400 faranheit in that case, or soft at 440 and they both worked well).

I also noticed every time you choose a wire in smok, the menu of the TCR comes up.. it defaults at 0.600 for nickel. Does this sound about right for a pre made nickel coil? I mean it works, so it should be fine, but nickel is dangerous, so the more accurate i have it the better.
I'd love to build a MTL coil with SS wire that i can use in either mode. That's my ultimate goal. All new mods have SS temp control now.
 
Last edited:

KenD

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Aug 20, 2013
5,396
9,257
48
Stockholm, Sweden
kennetgranholm.com
Any ideas for building the joyetech MTL 1.0hm CLR coils with temp wire? Would that work? They are a very nice MTL coil and i have a lot of joyetech tanks

When I still had a Joyetech vt60 and Ego one tank I rebuilt plenty of CLR coils. They work fine with tc wire.

I also noticed every time you choose a wire in smok, the menu of the TCR comes up.. it defaults at 0.600 for nickel. Does this sound about right for a pre made nickel coil? I mean it works, so it should be fine, but nickel is dangerous, so the more accurate i have it the better.

All mods/brands behave a bit differently, but the Smok preset should be accurate enough. You could do a dry cotton burn test if you rebuild the CLR coils. However, even if the tcr would be off, by a lot even, you won't heat the wire enough for it to emit anything dangerous. For that to happen you'd have to be way above dry hit temperatures.

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk
 

backitdown

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 7, 2013
240
480
71
On a boat in So.CA
I am two days into the world of temperature control and liking what I see. A Tootle Puffer at heart that was using a ProTank with 2.0 ohm coils for years. I recently bought a Pico and Mega V2 tanks with the CLR heads. I've built two S.S. coils that preform just like people say S.S. should. A nice clean taste in both VW and TC modes. If you haven't tried to twist a coil yet it's time you do so. These CLR heads are SOOOO easy to build. Give it a try and I'm sure you will succeed.
 

ShowerHead

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 23, 2014
1,087
2,142
Massachusetts
I do not MTL, but many of those who do like, @ricks have found a nice vape using the OBS Engine Nano.
It is strictly a DIY single coil tank. Great flavor, no leaks at all regardless of wicking.

I'd think that TC would be good for any vaping style myself. I couldn't go back to the power mode days with the dry hits. Though I only use SS or NiFe52 for wire, can't speak to Ni or Ti.
 

KenD

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Aug 20, 2013
5,396
9,257
48
Stockholm, Sweden
kennetgranholm.com
KenD thanks very much for your enlightening post. May I ask, do you know what the highest safe max temp is for the nickel wire itself, and then titanium? I'd love that info if possible. Cheers

Thank you. I'm sorry to say that I don't remember the exact temperatures and I don't dare to wager a guess. I just remember that it's way beyond where you'd have a dry hit. You'd definitely have to glow the coil, so while dry firing is inadvisable there shouldn't be any risk at even high vaping temperatures.

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk
 

TheotherSteveS

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 14, 2015
5,232
6,814
Birmingham, England
Heat causes carcinogen release above a certain temperature. 400F is a very safe limit, taking into account that mods have an error margin when measuring the temperature.
OK, that's what I thought you meant....not sure what I think of those data really but there you go! The problem is, the 'temperatures' we set on our devices do not necessarily reflect the absolute temp of the juice at the point of vapourisation. This will also vary from device to device. With most of my builds on a variety of high-end mods 400F is going to be a pretty anameic vape to be honest.
 

sofarsogood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Oct 12, 2014
5,553
14,168
OK, that's what I thought you meant....not sure what I think of those data really but there you go! The problem is, the 'temperatures' we set on our devices do not necessarily reflect the absolute temp of the juice at the point of vapourisation. This will also vary from device to device. With most of my builds on a variety of high-end mods 400F is going to be a pretty anameic vape to be honest.
You may be wrong about some of that. For more thana year my tc settings were left at 30 watts and 400 F. I believed the coil reached that temperature on every puff. Lately the Arctic Fox firmware, which shows max temp and max watts, is teaching me different. With my settings used on an RDA and maximum saturation of the coil 30 watts pushes the temp to more like 260 degrees. When the coil gets dryer temp goes easily to 400 and needs less than 10 watts to get there. Dense vapor at 400 degrees would be too hot for my taste and there are times when an N mini style puff at 10 watts is preferable. My hunch is most vapers coil temperatures are lower than they believe.
 
  • Like
Reactions: David Wolf

TheotherSteveS

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 14, 2015
5,232
6,814
Birmingham, England
You may be wrong about some of that. For more thana year my tc settings were left at 30 watts and 400 F. I believed the coil reached that temperature on every puff. Lately the Arctic Fox firmware, which shows max temp and max watts, is teaching me different. With my settings used on an RDA and maximum saturation of the coil 30 watts pushes the temp to more like 260 degrees. When the coil gets dryer temp goes easily to 400 and needs less than 10 watts to get there. Dense vapor at 400 degrees would be too hot for my taste and there are times when an N mini style puff at 10 watts is preferable. My hunch is most vapers coil temperatures are lower than they believe.
so what was I wrong about?? I was basically saying that the real temp is only vaguely related to the set temp and whether it ever gets there is a function of the build, wicking efficiency, juice viscosity and composition, time of the day, cosmic ray background etc etc..Obviously these boxes dont measure temp directly at all. Busardo did some 'experiments' using a FLIR camera which really showed a lot of these issues!
 
  • Like
Reactions: David Wolf

sofarsogood

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Oct 12, 2014
5,553
14,168
so what was I wrong about?? I was basically saying that the real temp is only vaguely related to the set temp and whether it ever gets there is a function of the build, wicking efficiency, juice viscosity and composition, time of the day, cosmic ray background etc etc..Obviously these boxes dont measure temp directly at all. Busardo did some 'experiments' using a FLIR camera which really showed a lot of these issues!
May be I misread your post. Until the AF firmware I thought I was well experienced with my TC builds, understood what was going on. I didn't. I've learned a lot from the real time feedback. I got out my Nautilus mini for the first time in a couple of years to remind myself of that experience. 10 watts on a 1.8 ohm coil is a cool low key vape. If you're satisfied with that and use a tank I think TC is optional but it should be possible to get a similar vape from TC.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread