Can you guys help me dismantle a missy wetbox to change out switch?

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JuniorNA

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Hey guys, i got a wetbox 3.7v the other day and I wanted to change out the switch as soon as i got it. Besides that, it's exactly what i wanted to build myself but i screwed up a couple times on the soldering wires to the positive and negative of the connector...(not a very good solder man)...so anyway, I figured i'd get the wetbox since it's 90% complete and worth it. I learned to use it the phidias way and just hold upside down, and it's perfect. I"m using a 306 2.0ohm AvidVaper atty and it's wonderful. The only problem is i don't know if this is just hot glue or epoxy around the batt connector and the switch? I manged to get some off with a hot exacto knife but I fear i'll cut into the wiring, which i'm sure i can fix anyway...but any ideas how to get this switch out ?

Take a look at the pics.
 

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JuniorNA

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I want to put a better switch on it, even if it has to go in the same place...but something more responsive and something that can handle more than 50MA. Any ideas on how the cleanest way to remove all this hot glue or epoxy and start over ? what do you guys suggest ?have you guys done this before? I love the mod and the 306 atty makes it hit like a beast, the feeding is perfect too when held upside down...let me know. thanks.
 

El Dee

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You might try dynamite....I attempted the same thing months back...I did finally get it out with a varying combination of tools.....All my connections were pulled loose in the process and well...I gave up.......The only switch I could find that would fit right was the exact same type....I feel it though...A bigger switch and it could be good to GO!!
 

JuniorNA

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Thanks...I was thinking of just removing the switch, and not putting the switch back in that location. I was going to use one of those horn switches from mad vapes, and play it right behind where the syringe and top of feed bottle go. There is a ton of room back there and the horn momentary switch only comes into the box a little bit (the 2 tabs come in), so i was thinking of wiring that, using hot glue, and calling it a day...it all depends on how much of a mess i make when trying to take apart all the hot black glue that was used. Plus i was worred about getting it setup the same way with the hole, but i can just put a drill bit in the hole and let the glue try around it, after putting some oil on the bit so the glue does adhere to it.

Do you think i'll just end up making it worse ? I really like the mod, i just want to replace the switch sooo bad.
 

Para

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When I need to cut, chisel, or grind off epoxy or resin or glue that is soft and sticky.....I put it in my freezer for a while. The cold hardens it up and it's easy to chip away. The picture is WAY out of focus so can't tell much of what you have, but it doesn't look like you need to remove much. Shouldn't take more than 20-30 minutes to clean it out
 

JuniorNA

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yeah, i was in bad lighting on the droid incredible. It usually takes amazing closeups. I will take another shot tomorrow for more help. thanks so much guys, I always appreciate the feedback. So far, with modding the syringe, modding the connector, i'm literally turned this into an enjoyable box....especially with a 2.0 ohm 306. If i ruin it, then i buy another, its only 50 bucks, but i really want to change the switch and i'll love it even more. Will post more pics and will try to get the glue out a little more before taking more pics so we can see which switch will fit. Thanks
 

El Dee

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With a rated for use switch I think you will be pleased...I've used mold release wax when working with fiberglass....The glue may not stick too the bottle...I'd try a small spot and see how it sticks..I would think it could be used as a mold and peeled out fairly easily once dry....If it sticks try a coat of auto wax on the bottle....as a release agent...Good luck...
 

asdaq

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I would take a utility knife (xacto type) and slip it in between the switch body and the box inner wall and rock back and for the to cut the the actuator off and free that side. Then the same action on the sides of the switch so it is only glued from the side we can't see. If possible use the knife on the remaining side or grasp the switch with needle nose pliers and work it out. You'll be left with hole from that switch but some hot glue, maybe sand and Sharpie and you won't know it's there.

The wires you'll have to pick free, but if you are willing to redo them, you could go ahead and drill for the new switch and let the chips fall where they may.

One last thing, you are sure the horn switch has room with the bottle?
 

JuniorNA

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Thanks ASD... i have the switch and batt connector free of black glue and the switch is loose so when my hot glue comes from Amazon ill be able to take the switch out and either out a better switch in same place. Or horn switch on the back part of the wall...

ha.java.. At first i was about to out a hammer to it but I loved how it vaped and feeds with a 306 1.5 and 2.0. Now i want to make it a modified project since I'm really bad at soldering battery connectors with holes. I've ruined about ten and melted every rubber isolator i've ever touched.

Unless one of you guys will let me send you 5 open battery connectors and you solder positive and negative for me, i'm stuck with this project as my bottom feeder ;-)

Sent from my HTC Droid Incredible
 

floridamale

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The prewired sealed won't help for a bottom feeder.



And yes. If it ain't broke don't fix it, i think i heard that once or twice, thx... but more importantly if it's working, but built like crap, then by all means, fix it... i heard of that one too.


Sent from my HTC Droid Incredible



I believe if it's built like crap you're better off spending your money elsewhere. But we are all different Good Luck with your project.
 
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